Orca Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Murray Mark Ashmore Rod Young Max Gordon Josephine Roper Adrian Kladnig Brendan Heywood Dylan Tubaro Matt Tranter Bing

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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1. Orca Area 14 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Orca Area 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.869533, 150.574168

description

This area comprises about 3 walls, with Orca taking on the prominant arete right of the big roof. The mossy slab has some newly bolted routes that will improve with traffic.The slab to the right is quite good and should be quite popular.

access issues

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

inherited from Thompson's Point

ethic

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

inherited from Nowra

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★★★ Ceiling Your Fate Inside corner crack, going left through carrot bolt beneath roof to anchor. FA: Ant Prehn, 1991	24	Trad 20m
2	★★ Healing Your Hate Start as for Ceiling Your Fate though go right at the roof and through the anchor of Orca. All trad, avoid the temptation to clip bolts of Orca. In the roof theres a block with jugs on top, i chose to avoid this because of unknown rock quality, climbing the seam below this. Make your own assessment FA: Max Gordon, 14 Jun 2020	24	Trad 20m
3	★★★ Orca Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish. Optional friend no longer needed to protect start. FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Craig Paul & Trudy Bretherton, 1991	18	Sport 25m, 8
4	★★ Korca Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'. FA: Rod Young, 1999	18	Sport 24m, 7
5	★★ The Money or the Box FA: Trudy Bretherton & Giles Bradbury, 1990	19	Sport 25m, 6
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
6	★ Left-hand Lichen / Mossy Climb LH Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.	15	Sport 22m
7	★ Mossy Climb RHV / Righthand Lichen Right line of rings up the lichen covered slab. Left handside also available.	15	Sport 22m, 7
8	★ Slap & Tickle A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple. FA: Paula Simons / Mark Ashmore	17	Sport 14m
9	★ Evil Spider Up the wide crack, then right around small roof to ledge. Trad anchor then scramble off the top or walk carefully left to Lichen/Mossy Climb anchors. The middle is a bit runout without big cams (5+). If you do have big cams you could also try taking the crack through the roof, looks fun. FA: Josephine Roper, 2020	15	Trad 22m
10	★ Hairy Harriet Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall. FA: Rod Young, 2005	16	Sport 14m, 8
11	★ Snoop Dog Warning Rock: Loose block at the top Enjoyable stroll, with a tricky start. Will be better with traffic. Start: Start 2m right of the previous route. FA: Rod Young, 2005	17	Sport 25m
12	★ LHV start to W.I.T.W Traverse in for an easier route FA: Rod Young, 2005	16	Sport 17m
13	★ What In The World FA: Rod Young, 2005	18	Sport 16m, 6
14	★ Heathen Another good fun doddle. Start: Start on the far right hand side of the wall. FA: Rod Young, 2005	18	Sport 25m, 9

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
15	★	Evil Spider	Trad 22m
	★	Left-hand Lichen	Sport 22m
	★	Mossy Climb RHV	Sport 22m, 7
16	★	Hairy Harriet	Sport 14m, 8
	★	LHV start to W.I.T.W	Sport 17m
17	★	Slap & Tickle	Sport 14m
	★	Snoop Dog	Sport 25m
18	★	Heathen	Sport 25m, 9
	★★	Korca	Sport 24m, 7
	★★★	Orca	Sport 25m, 8
	★	What In The World	Sport 16m, 6
19	★★	The Money or the Box	Sport 25m, 6
24	★★★	Ceiling Your Fate	Trad 20m
	★★	Healing Your Hate	Trad 20m