The Wastelands Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Murray Jason Lammers Mark Ashmore John Lattanzio Matt Tranter graeme hill Alec Landstra Evan Robinson Dave McGregor Jakob Kapelj

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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1. The Wastelands 20 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. The Wastelands 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.873110, 150.574478

access issues

RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.

NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.

inherited from Thompson's Point

ethic

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

inherited from Nowra

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Torrone Molle Still there, just not that easy to access with the scrub in the way. About 50m left of Ryobicide buttress. Dirty black wall with a couple of carrots, a ring, and then a nice long runout to nowhere. FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991	12	Sport 15m, 3
2	Body Abuse FA: Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Stewart Wyithe, 1991	22	Trad 8m
3	Screaming Grahams FA: Rod Young & Mike Law-Smith, 1991	21	Sport 20m
4	Unknown Bulges. Route information needed.		Sport
5	★ Gluten Free But Not Intolerant Starts 10m left of Ryobocide. Up crack and then slab. FA: M Loan & Tim Booth, 2016	18	Sport 16m, 5
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
6	★ Ryobicide FHs up the left hand arete. FA: Rod Young, 1991	23	Sport 20m, 7
7	★ Moshpit 4m right of R. Up, then back lefwards and up to anchors. FA: Rod Young	17	Sport 15m, 5
8	★★ Lucy Can't Dance Takes the line up the middle of a 20m wide, slabby pillar. Starts climbing the lefthand flakes of a cave. Start is same as MoshPit, but straight up. FA: Rod Young	18	Sport 22m, 8
9	★ Dancing In The Garden The blunt RH arete FA: Sue Young, 1991	18	Sport 22m
10	★★ Breaka My Pants A little sandy and mossy will improve with ascents. Start: Just right from DITG on wall. FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 15m
11	★★ Raiders Of The Lost Arse A classic! What more can be said. As you may be aware to attempt this breath taking technical masterpiece you will need to climb solid 20. Start: Next right line of bolts. FA: G Hill	20	Sport 12m
12	★ Vibratory Needs none. Where do i get these names from. Climb it for the classic name. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. Start: To the right of ROTLA. FA: G Hill	20	Sport 10m
13	★ Roger the Coger Left of RtD. Great ! FA: F Mark, 2000	19/20	Sport 10m
14	★★ Roger the Doger In the gully right of RtC FA: F Mark, 2000	20	Sport 10m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
15	★ Dr. Livingstone, I presume. Start behind the big tree to the left of the cave. Up through the jugs traversing right. Will improve with traffic. FA: Matthew Tranter, 22 May 2016	18	Sport 18m, 6
16	★ Alien Probe The orginal climb here. Start at the black streak under the cave up high. Move right to the unlikely face climbing on the orange streak, up this to anchors. FA: Graeme Hill, 1998	23	Sport 15m, 6
17	★★ Buba Cool Hidden gem, up the back of the wastelands. Start at the little overlap 3m right of Alien Probe. Up trending left to blind seam/crack then straight up to anchors. Hard to put the draw on the 3rd bolt. Otherwise Excellent. FA: Veronique Hill	22	Sport 15m, 5
18	Short Memory 15m right of BC at right hand end of this wall FA: veronique Hill	20	Sport 6m
19	Sticky Beak R of SM. Hard Start FA: G Hill	20	Sport 6m
20	Oofti The most right route on the wall. Tricky moves, but eases off at 2nd bolt. FA: Veronique Hill	20	Sport 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
12		Torrone Molle	Sport 15m, 3
17	★	Moshpit	Sport 15m, 5
18	★	Dancing In The Garden	Sport 22m
	★	Dr. Livingstone, I presume.	Sport 18m, 6
	★	Gluten Free But Not Intolerant	Sport 16m, 5
	★★	Lucy Can't Dance	Sport 22m, 8
19/20	★	Roger the Coger	Sport 10m
20	★★	Breaka My Pants	Sport 15m
		Oofti	Sport 6m
	★★	Raiders Of The Lost Arse	Sport 12m
	★★	Roger the Doger	Sport 10m
		Short Memory	Sport 6m
		Sticky Beak	Sport 6m
	★	Vibratory	Sport 10m
21		Screaming Grahams	Sport 20m
22		Body Abuse	Trad 8m
	★★	Buba Cool	Sport 15m, 5
23	★	Alien Probe	Sport 15m, 6
	★	Ryobicide	Sport 20m, 7
?		Unknown	Sport