Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Jess | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with Jess | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Coyote - with Jess | 40m | ||||
Somehow I’d never done this before. One move
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17 | ★ Golliwogs Cakewalk - with Jess | 40m | ★ Good | |||
3m are classic
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Skydiver - with Oz | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus - with Oz | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Always good
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22 | ★★ Easy Does It - with Oz | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ Free Admission - with Oz | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent - with Oz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had done this one for ages
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Preludes | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
with Steve
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ★ Good | |||
with Steve
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19 | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
with Steve
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Good | |||
with Steve. Worth doing. Nice rock
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Central Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Missing - with @1293 | 75m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great climbing. A little bit heady off the couch especially with brand new shoes. Why has it taken me so to do this route? I climbed Simpleton 25 years ago!
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Flat Rock | ||||||
West Flank | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirty Bomb | 15m, 7 | ||||
18 | ★ MOAB | 20m, 8 | ||||
20 | ★★ Alpha Decay | 17m, 9 | ||||
22 | ★ Minutes to Midnight | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The start had smaller holds than I though but they were closer together than I thought.
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22 | ★★ Without Warning | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Steeper than it looks at the top
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20 | ★ The Big Red Button | 15m, 5 | ||||
21 | ★ Fat Boy | 15m, 7 | ||||
I missed something and it seemed tricky.
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Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Is Vanya a Dog? | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Happy to figure it out quickly. I really like it. Will be a bit of a runout after the bolt but there’s not really anywhere to stop and clip anyway sort from just after the bolt. There is good gear before the bolt and good gear after the run out.
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23 | ★★ Tough Titties | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite thin. About as thin as I remembered.
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22 | ★ Rubber Neeples | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Over pretty quickly but worth doing
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | ||||
Always fun. with Jess, Ant, Lu, Amber, Dusty, Beatrix and Josie haha
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21 | ★ Clear the Pipes | 25m, 2 | ||||
Discontinuous but climbs pretty well.
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14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ||||
Surely i've done this before and not recorded it.
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Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★ Hot Coq | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Managed all the moves in a few sections. Packs it in for a shorty.
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Deep Freeze | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
had a fiddle (and flash pump) with the gear.
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25 | ★★★ Deep Freeze | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great little wall this one. Super smeggy/sauna day. Nice to tick even with bad conditions. The gear is all there but not straightforward, either to see or place.
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Sun 23rd Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit of a grade 18 testpiece
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Sun 23rd Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Sob Story | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Somehow I'd never done these ones!
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14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unlikely at the grade. I like it.
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Salamander | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice little afternoon meander
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15 | ★ Smeagol | 110m | ||||
Seems a litttle contrived here and there. If it was the only route in the area it'd be popular and clean! The rock is good.
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Wed 27th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantle | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not as much gear as I remembered. Great climbing on great rock. It's a shame there isn't a belay stance lower down on the second pitch. It'd make three more equal pitches in length and grade.
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Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ John and Betty | 23m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Haden done this for a while. Go right at the upper section instead of left to get extra value.
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21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ Good | |||
I got 5 rp's in on the lower wall (including a #0 that Mark happened to have on his rack). Surely one of them would've held. The middle section of this is quite nice but not long enough and then there's the dodgy block.
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19 19 R | ★ Amazing Lace | 23m | Average | |||
Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Blackguard | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★★★ New Image | 25m | ||||
Perfect sunny winter's day. With mark g
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Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Riding the Quayle | 130m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
The second and third pitch are quite good, better than the first pitch I think.
Rough idea of pitch grades
P1 17 one stand up move at the bolt
P2 18
P3 16
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Mon 9th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Antiques Road Show | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 1st Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Velvet Green | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 9th Feb 2018 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 | ★★ Try Land - with Gregor | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Pains Ford - with Gregor | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
23 | ★★ Pain Criminals Link-up - with Gregor | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters - with Gregor | 20m | Average | |||
Thinner than I remembered.
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Tue 16th Jan 2018 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Harrop Track Ruined Castle | ||||||
15 | ★ The First Crusade Pitch 1 | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good rock. More like arapiles
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23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 2 | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Steep on mostly good jugs but not that long.
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22 | ★★★ Christendom | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climbing. Easier and better than it looks and it looks pretty good to start with!
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24 | ★★ Catapult | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Great rock but not super consistent. Easy jugs, one hard move and then slightly awkward groove bit. The position on this wall is magic. Would be super popular if it was closer to the car or ground.
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Wed 10th Jan 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 | ★★ Acapulco Gold | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good and consistent climbing. The ground feels close haha
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Wed 3rd Jan 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior - with claire grubb | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The middle section feels a bit fragile and is easier but overall it's great.
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14 | ★★ Megalomaniac - with claire grubb | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Forgotten how cool this is. Looks imposing but has enough the whole way to make it a cruise.
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17 | ★★★ Mari - with claire grubb | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A few nice morning routes before it got too hot.
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | ||||||
16 | ★ Sheer Ecstasy | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Cool climbing and longer than it looks.
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Spellbinder | 27m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great. Seems harsh for 17 though.
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Sat 16th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Judgement Day - with Jessie Rushbrooke | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool positions on this
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Wed 13th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Slap the Philanthropist | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Jess pre work and pre 41°. There was a lovely breeze and it was pretty nice.
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19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pre work. Nice and cool before the 41° kicks in!
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Fri 8th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard - with adam demmert, gerhard | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Had four cracks at it. Got it in two bits and happy with the beta now.
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Tue 28th Nov 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama - with Callum Dougall, Geordie Webb | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I might've done this twenty years ago but don't remember. Great climbing.
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Sun 26th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Greasy Burritos | 28m | ★ Good | |||
One harder bit. Not as consistent as LbL. The name is incongruous!
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Sun 26th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Mother Brown | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Three good sections. The slabby crux is fun. Well protected if you look for it.
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Thu 23rd Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Little By Little | 32m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little spicy at the top crux but there's an RP you can find. Great route.
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17 | ★ Riding the Quayle | 130m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Only had time for the first pitch before the sun started frying. Pretty good route. A bit balancey but not that hard.
One bolt up high on the first pitch. At the low tricky groove step right for a move. Going straight up the groove would be trickier.
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Sun 19th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ John's Corner Direct - with mark gould | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Worthwhile
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24 | ★★ Guide for the Perplexed - with mark gould | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky to figure out. Went pretty easily on the second go. There is a good cam under the roof. It's a bit tricky to see exactly where but it's a #1 camalot about 1m right of the "tooth" flake. It's also a bit perplexing figuring out where to go over the lip of the roof.
Good route altogether. Great rock apart from the one flake under the roof which probably won't go anywhere.
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Sat 18th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
21 | ★ Rats in the Ranks - with adam demmert | 22m | ★ Good | |||
A couple of good grunts through the steep bit. The headwall is good I thought. Slightly overhanging and keeps going
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Sat 18th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Double ropes are great on this! Ran it out between the bolts. It would be a long but ok fall.
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Sun 12th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Pacemaker - with jess | 110m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A couple of racey but well protected bits. Really good. You could link 2 and 3 but probably better to link 3 and 4.
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Sat 11th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
23 | Hard Chat | 28m, 1 | Average | |||
I went too far right trying to avoid Fish Disco the first time. Got it second go. You actually climb left of the crux bolt, over near the bolt on Fish Disco. A couple of thin pulls at the crux, very hard for 22. The next section after the bolt has thin and fiddly gear (1 and 2 RPs) and feels a bit committing.
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22 | ★ Exit Stage Left | 35m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
A much friendlier alternative finish to BaL.
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23 | ★★ Break a Leg | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Committing up the last 5m. You definitely want a 0.4 or 0.3 camalot size piece after the crux to get you to the anchor. You might not break your leg but it probably wouldn't be fun to fall off.
You can get down with a single 60 if you do a short rap leftwards to GB's anchor then a second rap from there. You might reach from the top anchor on stretch (we didn't try).
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19 | ★★ Little By Little | 32m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Got down with a 60 just.
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20 | ★ Greasy Burritos Extension | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
nice climbing. Feels a little run out.
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Wed 8th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ The Only Way To Fly | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Lovely lazy hazy post fest day
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Wed 8th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Today | 15m | ★ Good | |||
I was sure I'd done this before but now I'm not sure. Steep but a bit short. I stayed left after the ledge and went direct up the little wall to finish.
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Wed 8th Nov 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Light on gear but nice climbing.
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Mon 12th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | ||||||
20 | Bitchy and Itchy | 13m | Average | |||
The start is a bit goey
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19 | ★★ Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Why had I never done this before? Great! and steeper than I thought.
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16 | ★ Winching Pommies | 18m | Average | |||
16 | Arts Part-time | 16m | Don't Bother | |||
Fri 9th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Miss Moneypenny | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
A few sections at the same-ish grade. Pretty consistent.
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20 | ★ Pussy Galore | 20m, 2 | Average | |||
I found the crux more awkward than hard. Maybe I didn't find the best way. Unfortunately has a ledge half way.
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19 | ★ The G Spot | 23m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Worth doing. A good addition for sure.
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Wed 7th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
19 19 R | ★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun - with Jess | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had never done the final pitch properly. Really adds a nice finish
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Sat 8th Apr 2017 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Olive Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Taser (Tazer) - with great climbing! | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supposed to be a comeback project but it went second go! After 5 months off I'm feeling strong but unfit.
With Josh
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Tue 31st Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I tried this a few years ago and did it in two halves (broken at the rest). Same again today. I'll try to get back on it soon next time and it might go!
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18 | ★★ Virginia | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I like this one.
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Tue 31st Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
23 | Cat People | 25m | Average | |||
Good to play on on a warm afternoon. Nice rock but not really very much to it. Seems like it could be goey?
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20 | ★ Better Than That | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Found it a bit tricky to figure out where to go after the bolt. Not obvious moves.
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Thu 26th Jan 2017 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
24 | ★ Lunging For Melons Extension | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took quite a few cracks at the hard bit before I figured it out. Hard to onsight overall I reckon. Really cool subtle moves after the big move. Happy to get this after three months of not climbing. Pumped as at the top and has to pull a bit of technique out to stay on.
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28 | ★★★ Touchstone Pictures | 46m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Had a play at the end of the day. The diabolical bit is diabolical.
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17 | ★★ Gerontian | 46m | ★ Good | |||
Good. Don't remember doing it at all. 20 years between drinks = onsight I reckon.
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