Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

The least mossy line.

Start: About 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock'

The crack 6m right of 'The Ghost of Melville', through overhang and up gulch.

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'.

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant'

Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this.

Up this.

Start: On the left wall of Buttress Buttress 'Gully' (Upper Hunger), right of the steep stuff, is a shallow groove.

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

It is not just the name of this one that is obscure.

Start: Behind the former routes is another broken wall. This takes the subtle arete just left of the central corner.

Line 1m R of Groucho.

Cracks 2m R of Zeppo, 3m L of R edge of wall.

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

2. (11) Up the crack

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

COntinue up gully for 12m, climb to ledge, L and up crack.

Start: Start at the bolt belay of 'Ckinarde' (the location of which is not provided...).

Start as for C.

1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.

1. 15m (11) Up the blocky corner to big boulder choke.

2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor (30m).

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the pipe past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into Organ Pipes Gully to get off.

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe.

Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.

1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

2. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

Start at the first belay of Conifer Crack and climb the gully between the second pitch of Conifer Crack and the Red Wall. For the connoisseur of chossy gully routes.

Not a bad excursion to the top of the Organ Pipes from the Tremulo anchor. Bear in mind that it is little-travelled so treat the rock with respect and be mindful of climbers below. It's not actually the original finish of Tremulo, which continued up the gully above the anchor, but the finish of Humouresque. The climbing can be split in a number of ways, with best ledges at 30m and 40m. Continue up left buttresses from anchors at top of pitch one of Tremulo, passing the MCC gnome high on the buttress. Walk off.

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

Start at the right-hand toe of the wall, a few meters right of Alychne, at a seam in nice rock.

1. 23m Up seam to some ledges. Move left back onto front of buttress. Up little buttress (there are some loose blocks just to the left) to large ledge where an obvious big block sticks over the edge. Despite the alarming appearace from below, this block isn’t going anywhere.

2. 12m Go up from the left side of the ledge and continue up.

Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Toothless. Another easy line. Start left of With an F!

Up the black jugs.

Start: Start R of WW.

A linkup of Strife on the Gravy Train & Exploding Tomatoes. Start up SOTGT then move right and up into ET.

Body chimney right of Jackal.

The buttress with an overhang.

Start: Start in the gully R of The Hard Years.

This climb is on the north face of the buttress Climb the right hand side of the face.

Up Great Pissing Ledges stopping below small roof then step right into 'Hope'.

Finishes further left than the original

Climb crack, step out right onto face. Climb through roof and up.

Start: Start as for Gabriel's Oboe.

A separate buttress 12m right of Purity, 3m right of Beguiled. Appears to be rib on left edge of buttress with a bit of orange on it. Climb the face then move to the arete, through the overhang and easily on.

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

The diagonal line. Start 4m R of CS.

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of Tres Hard.

The monumental chimney on the R side of Reaper Buttress. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.

1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

This airy arête can be a second pitch to Native Companion, or an alternative finish to Transylvania. It’s the prominently visible arête directly above Subliminal Cut.

From the first belay of Transylvania, move left and climb arête all the way.

Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

This is on the lower tier of the Minstrel Pinnacle. The obvious chimney.

Take the easiest way up the face. Start on the southwest face of the pinnacle (which faces into Central Gully). Short corner then (crux) traverse 4-5m L (nasty pendulum potential for the seconder), to gain the nice easy crack to the summit. There's also a more direct start about 6m further L which is a little harder and not as well protected, but with much reduced pendulum potential.

This is just the original first pitch of Dunes and should probably be deleted.

Variant first pitch that avoids the greasy start of the original, but is quite runout. Squeeze through behind the block L of the original start to a ledge. Up the L side of the block and up the slab with very little gear to join the original first pitch at the corner/overlap

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

A climbing route that follows Ali's, then goes up to the top of Bard Buttress. Not great rock but a great position. Start 10m left of Ali's.

1. 55m 8. Ramble up the slab for ~20m (minimal pro). Clip a bolt on Ali's, and cross to the R, over a small lip, onto a ledge at the base of ridgeline going up Bard Buttress.

2. 25m 10. Traverse R onto the arete/ridgeline, and follow the ridge to the top.

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

From Ali Baba's Cave, scramble up to a ledge between Bard Buttress and Bluff Minor. You ascend the southeast face of Bluff Minor, overlooking the Pines. Epic summit vibes.

1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

2. 35m (10) Steep to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

3. 10m (6) Up to the summit. Rap off a slung boulder on the summit into the gap between Bluff Minor and Bluff Major.

A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner.

Climb the RH line, descend the LH line! Start on the slabby wall opposite Missing Link.

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

Start about 50m uphill from John's Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the Bluffs which divides Bluff Major and Bluff Minor. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto Blockbuster Ledge.

This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'.

Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane.

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

Pitch 4 Variant: At the belay do not move right into the chimney. Instead step left for about 2-3m then follow an obvious line trending slightly left for a full 50m pitch. This is an obvious line that is quite prominent as a crack line on the cover of Louise Shepherd's guide book to 'Arapiles'

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

3. 20m (8) Traverse as for P4 of The Eighth.

The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.

While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.

Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.

1. 20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead (as per P1 of Monkey Poo), this is harder and less-well protected.

2. 20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.

3. 35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.

4. 38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.

5. 12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.

6. 25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.

7. 20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off

A significantly shorter, easier and more exciting finish than the original. The u-bolt is on Hot Lonely Planet. Pitches 1 - 3. As for Syrinx, belaying to the right of the large ledge, near the painted arrow.

1. 40m (7) Climb up above the arrow then right a little and up into juggy groove and up to a small ledge on the left at 20m (third belay of Headbanger). From the left side of the ledge continue left and up past a big bucket hold and a Ubolt through the exposed orange rock, toward a guano-stained ledge. Go left and up across the top of the major corner (airy) to a small ledge on Sunday Best. Much easier but more exposed than any other Grade 7 pitch at Arapiles. Do not underestimate it.

2. 20m (7) Continue left past large hollow block and up to evade the roof and join Pitch 7 of Syrinx to finish. Scramble off as for that climb.

Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around.

It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off.

Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.

1. 35m (8) Slabby seam then easy climbing to lovely thin crack. Follow crack then step right and up to stance.

2. 20m (11) 'Steep' off the belay and up to ledge. Move right and follow crack through overhang and up to good ledge.

3. 50m (10) Superb crack to a ledge and double bolt belay.

4. 15m (7) Manky wall to large ledge then short wall to next large ledge. Walk off right.

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

Takes the vegetated trench.

A ramble up the northern aspect of 'Death Row Pinnacle'. The first pitch was the scramble down from 'Garden Gnome' before the rap anchor went in. Start from a ledge right of Death Row ’s condemned cell and a bit down left from 'Garden Gnome' .

1. 20m Up to a short right-facing corner, which leads to easy climbing up to the saddle between the main 'Death Row Pinnacle' and the summit of Garden Gnome. Belay at the Garden Gnome chains.

2. 20m Wall to the summit of Death Row Pinnacle.

Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness.

Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.

1. 28m (6) Climb the buttress on the left to a good belay ledge.

2. 22m (10) Traverse 5 metres right, stepping across a wide crack, then follow the steep, clean line on the right to another good ledge.

3. 25m (10) Step left and climb the front of the buttress to gain the deep V-line on the left. Pass the spectacular roof on the left and up to the Tennis Court.

4. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

The line right of The Shroud and left of Spiral Staircase. The original line of Spiral Staircase went somewhere about the first pitch of this. The second pitch traversed off below the roofs to the line that is climbed now. Apparently originally climbed in the 1960s by Rob Taylor, who placed the pin. Start on the North east shoulder of the Pharos right of TS.

1. 40m (10) Wander up to pick up a little R facing corner 3m right of The Shroud. Follow this corner to belay 5m below roofs.

2. 30m (10) Right of the roof pitch on The Shroud is two bits of orange rock capped by roofs. Samos takes the thin patch of grey rock between them past an old, unnecessary pin through a break in the roofs. Then up wall on jugs to join Spiral Staircase.

3. 5m (-) Scramble up short wall as for Spiral Staircase.

4. 35m (-) Do the top pitch of SS.

A nice alternative for when the final pitch of Hurricane Lamp Cracks, The Shroud, and Spiral Staircase is too busy or too sunny. From the Tennis Court, walk around right, delicately around the arete (staying on belay probably advisable) to a large ledge where Braindrops P1 ends. Climb the middle of the right-hand wall, staying well right of the deep split that Spiral Staircase would have stepped over. When the wall becomes vertical, stay left for the easiest line, or move right towards Lady Dihedral to make it a few grades harder. Tops out at the summit.

This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top.

Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route.

Crack 5 metres right of 'West Coast Dogma'.

Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'.

Obvious diagonal facing Huey.

From the highest point in the floor of the gully, scramble onto ledges then bridge up the chimney. When it narrows, head for and go up inside of chockstones. Belay on top of chockstones at rap anchor.

Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney.

Corner on the right, branching slightly left to finish up the right-hand summit.

Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

The express route to Mr. Chicken!

1. 40m (12). Start as for Watchtower Chimney, but veer right and up on surprising jugs at the start of the slab (close to the end of the first pitch; this is particularly great for rainy days when the slab is wet). Belay from giant ledge.

2. 20m (8). Traverse slightly right, then follow the juggy staircase until you reach a roof.

3. 15m (10). This is the money pitch. Traverse around the roof and climb the blocks on the right hand side until you reach Mr. Chicken. There is good gear in the cracks.

Not a new route; just one of many existing variants to Arachnus. See FA notes for details.

A gentle introduction to the joys of slabbing. Take a selection of cams, bent or otherwise. Start right of Panzer at clean streak – Battle of the Bulge.

1. 45m Up streak for about 20m, move left along ledge and up slab on horizontal slots to prominent horizontal orange bulge. Amble left and climb last few moves of Panzer to terrace.

2. 45m From left end of terrace climb up to little corner about 3m left of Joyride. At top of corner step left and climb straight up nice black rock, gradually easing, to terrace. (This pitch is midway between the original versions of Chameleon and Joyride.)

3. 15m Two short walls.

4. 15m (Optional) Short wall, then steep juggy rib above, finishing up crack on the right.

Not too bad.

Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up.

Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'.

Climb Harlequin Cracks until it’s easy to move out onto the left wall. Follow arête, finishing up line past the left edge of the Harlequin Cracks roof.

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.