Routes in Victoria for selected grade

1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large, scrubby ledge an undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay.

Climb steep cracks and corner above the first belay.

A fun novelty, involving some airy bridging between two aretes.

The arete left of Mohawkman, pulling onto the pinnacle for the final moves.

Up easy crack in centre of wall, cross left over I will build a great wall to next easy crack.

On left side of arete of Lacuna is an undercut start to easy flake, then slabby wall and short corner to summit opposite Hurts Wall.

The major corner system.

1. 22m (10) After a hard start, go up easily to the next overhang, which is avoided by moving onto the right wall and up to ledge.

2. 38m (10) Traverse delicately left across corner to long flake on left wall. Up flake to ledge. Taking the corner directly is grade 11 : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth 05-10-1968.

3. 18m (10) Chimney-corner.

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

Beneath Kachoong, R of ATOHDS. Up rib then corner to the belay for Kachoong.

They actually called it "About a Hedge-Whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum", and then said "Don't blame me, blame Ambroise Pare".

Start: Start 5m left of chimney, right of low cave and actually looks quite nice.

Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall.

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

Appropriate that these two should be new route hunting near JLYF.

Start: Start right of 'Just Like Your Father'.- I assume this is the obvious corner on the right end of the wall

Stepped corner towards left side of Walkabout Wall.

Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".

1. 35m (11) Veer up left and climb orange corners, then left and up to tiny ledge. Step left then up steep, right-facing box-corner.

2. 8m (5) Either rap off (28 metres) or walk left along ledge and go up.

Fairly dramatic but not obviously appealing. Start as for Serpent.

1. 36m (10) Up Serpent for 25 metres then go diagonally right to a small ledge under a prominent white streak. Here you join The Fall of Man: step across gap above roof and up to big ledge.

2. 24m (11) Walk right 6 metres and finish up The Bishop.

Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.

1. 26m (11) Climb steep right wall of cleft to large ledge.

2. 24m (11) Step up to smooth orange wall. Don't go straight up but step right and pull up steep arete. Up a few more metres then veer right and up right wall.

This probably originally started in the same place as The Empire Strikes Back at the letter C, which is where we've placed it, but it would be more logical to start further right as for Behemoth.

1. 20m (12) Follow the difficult diagonal crack to box chimney. Traverse 3 metres right and climb wall to big ledge.

2. 32m (12) Scramble up gully for 13 metres, step left onto smooth grey wall. Traverse left to arete avoiding horrible loose block and up.

2 meters L of When Kim Was a Girls Name, up weakness to front of butress and R to finish a the top of WKWAGN

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

Start at the painted initial 'A'.

1. 27m (10) Follow crack to V-corner and bridge up this (placing gear in some loose blocks) to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.

1. 27m (11) Hard, avoidable, start up seam and through small bulge at 5 metres to ledge. Veer left to right-facing corner. A tricky move into corner then up to ledge. Rap chains.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall above.

Worthless. Has lots of loose blocks as well.

The original description : This is an easy route to find. Head out towards Goroke and turn back at Mitre. Look up at the north face of the mountain. Up high (left of the red wall that houses Pressure Pete) is a line diagonally right. Yep, that's it.

Start: Left of the red patch is a line going diagonally right.

Climb the wide crack which is the major feature of this outcrop and is clearly visible from the road.

Wander up this to top trying to find best rock.

Start: 8m left of 'El Posso', five left of Its the Tens (?where is that?), is a scrappy corner.

Some nice moves but a bit scrappy.

Right arete of pinnacle above and left of Zorba. Start about 10 metres up left of 'Sundowner' at clear initial L. Roped descent off back of pinnacle necessary.

Start up gully and continue straight up to a belay ledge with conifer. Conitune straight up a square-cut chimney.

Start: Start at scrubby gully 8 metres left of Heart Full Of Soul. The gully leads past the right side of a bulbous nose.

Looks quite OK.

Start: Start at blocky groove 1.5 metres left of Couer De Lion. Faint initials MC.

Line with great rock on small wall at head of descent gully.

Up the curving crack. Finish back up right.

Start: Star at the curving crack on the left (east) side of the buttress. There\'s a small cave just left of the start.

Romp up to big ledge below the wall and then steep corner-crack on right,

Start: Start directly below the guano-stained orange wall.

Start just right of the gully and climb narrow east face of buttress.

Surprisingly pleasant.

Start: The chimney splitting the left outcrop just left of 'Alabama'.

The prominent corner and roof several metres right of 'Oldies But Boldies', exiting right at roof.

Apparently there is (or was) a small vise hidden on this climb, which is the unpleasant-looking chimney.

Start at the same spot as 'Tobacco Road' and follow the corner system up the left side of the yellow buttress.

Corner crack to narrow chimney on right side of buttress. Exit on wall just below chockstone.

Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête.

Hanging start to gain crack and up.

More intimidating than the grade suggests. Start as for 'Olive of My Eye'.

1. 35m (10) Traverse right across slab and pull around right arete.

2. 25m (10) Take attractive left line.

This is the prominent corner 30m right of Sweet Sue. Bridge up the corner to the top, go up the chimney, and then climb the right-hand line to finish.

This is the corner 8m right of Bridget.

This is approximately 20m right of Red Light Special. Climb the small corner then head up left to a large ledge. Get into the chimney and then climb the juggy crack above it, exiting left at the top.

Start 2 m right of Parlour Game. Up corner and continue on right hand of chimney to the top.

This is approximately 20m right of Parlour Game, at the end of the terrace where a small gum tree grow from the corner. Head up to the tree, then go diagonally left and up through a dirty area. After rock is regained, bridge up the line to the top.

The name is much more interesting than the climb.

The fourth corner.

A big line but not worth it.

Start: About 30m before the hand-rails and stairs traverse around to the R below the summit block and continue down and around until below the trig point and the lookout, below and slightly R of the huge corner.

1. 21m (10) Up a system of vague corners to a large ledge below a roof in the corner.

2. 20m (10) L under the roof and up the chimney-corner to the top.

Quite nice. A left-facing flake crack, well R of 'Twenty Below' and finishing 2m R of the summit lookout fence. Immediately before the lookout, traverse anti-clockwise below the lookout and descend a short chimney to the foot of the summit facet. The line is obvious.

Take the corner to below the overhang. Keep going somewhere.

3m L of Explorer’s Groove. Up to scoop then up R on large slightly suspect holds to large ledge. Either continue on up or head R to the DBB above Pharsalus.

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

Undistinguished and not well protected.

Start: Start in middle of slab.

Lovely corner that's harder than it looks.

Start: The corner on the L side of the slab.

A major geological feature.

Start: Start beneath the prominent chimney.

1. 40m (10) (crux) The line to belay below an overhang.

2. 20m (-) Climb the overhang and continue up the line.

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

5. 30m (-) Easily up.

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

The second (R-most) of the prominent lines.

Prominent R-leading flake-crack. Exit L on slabby ramp near top of crack.

Start: Start up R side of block.

Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic!

Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.

1. 12m (10) The line to the ledge.

2. 12m (10) Continue up the line with some brittle rock.

The front of the buttress, tricky pro.

Start: Start just R of 'Cypress'.

Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear!

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

The arete

Up the groove then follow the diagonal up rightwards.

Start: Start below the L end of the diagonal which caps a smooth wall at the left end of 'Left Wall'.

Has novelty value and the easy starting corner has good rock.

Another relatively neglected line which looks very worthwhile. A star has been added to entice the crowds over from 'Back Wall'.

Start: Start just L of 'Handles'.

The line of choss L of RE.