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Deep South

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

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Description

Strangely enough this is the western-most outcrop at 'Arapiles' not the most southerly. It consists of two small collections of buttresses west of Campbell's Kingdom with a reasonably high percentage of worthwhile climbs.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Campbells Kingdom Carpark

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

Park just south of the Monument sign and walk east to the outcrops

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

From behind the pedestal just left of the gully in the recess, go up the line in centre of face to a small roof(and, presumably, over it)

FA: Iain Sedgman & Wayne Maher, 1999

Start just right of the gully and climb narrow east face of buttress.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1979

Protection is hard to arrange.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979

A distinctive wide crack with an overhang 2 metres left of chimney.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1979

Surprisingly pleasant.

Start: The chimney splitting the left outcrop just left of 'Alabama'.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Canning, Andrea Wall & Stuart Dobbie, 2001

Start up diagonal seam leading right from base of chimney (CCC) then go straight up through little roof. Above roof, step left from ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1982

Seam 1 metre right of 'Alabama'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Francine Gilfedder & Mike Stone, 1979

Very hard start tnen flake on front wall. Finish right over overhang.

FA: KIm Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979

Start up corroded pillar, 2 metres right of Rape And Carnage, then strenuous diagonal .

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Left diagonal, 2 metres right of 'Dixie Chicken'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Up to pillar at about half height, pull up and move half

metre right and straight up.

Start: Start as for 'Kentucky Frazzled'.

FA: David Wilson.

FA: Leanne Matheson & Sam Wilson, 2001

A little gem. Right-leading diagonal until it ends, then up.

Start: This is on the highest main buttress which is a little recessed.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir., 1981

Follow left corner avoiding urge to bridge off opposing wall, then up headwall tending left.

Start: Start: About four metres downhill from 'Sleight of Hand'.

FA: Andrew Collins & Samantha Shelley, 1998

The grades of the individual pitches are not known, though first one looks harder, so both are given 20.

On first glance it hardly seems worth splitting this into two pitches but it makes sense.

Start: Start 4 metres left of 'Big Bungies'.

  1. 12m (20) The crack in the arete to a ledge.

  2. 5m (20) The jagged crack to the top. This lengthy pitch can be avoided by traversing off right.

FA: Wayne Maher & Iain Sedgman (alt), 1999

Orange face on front of buttress closest to road. Wall then short diagonal crack. Awkward near top then go left.

FA: Jon Muir & Mark Moorhead.., 1981

Follow crack to ledge. Middle of upper wall includes a festive move R to link the seams.

Start: Starts around R of 'Big Bungies', at a V-crack.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1995

Crack on buttress around the corner and up right of 'Big Bungies'.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir., 1981

The line at the left end of the wavy overhang.

FA: Peter Canning & Iain Sedgman, 1999

The prominent corner and roof several metres right of 'Oldies But Boldies', exiting right at roof.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning, 1999

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 27 May
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