Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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14 | ★★ Organ Grinder - with Stephen Roche | 60m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | ||||
Accurate name
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14 | ★ Death-bed Confession | 60m, 10 | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 28th Sep 2019 | ||||
Went left to tree at top of P2 and belay off 2 good fixed hangars. Then abseiled off tree to base using double 60m ropes
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14 | ★ Boulder Climb | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 28th Sep 2019 | ||||
P1 was quite good with adequate pro. A variety of moves including the odd jamb, layback, chimney and highstep. P2 was very poor with leaf and stick litter on sand with very little pro. Bailed from tree (60m rope doubled only reaches deck if you abseil back down to start of climb - not out left where the ledge falls away). P3 looked quite nice but will have to return for that one. Needed doubles of #0.75, #1, #2 and #3 with a #4 also. Would feel very safe with triples. Slings on trees at P1 and P2 are past their prime
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14 | ★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt) - with Pazi | 30m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
14 | ★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt) - with Chanté Fisk | 30m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 5th Dec 2020 | ||||
Excellent and consistent for the grade. Only needed two cams to complete the route. Carrots are a little run out however it's all on good climbing with no choss from the fires.
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14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 6th Apr 2021 | |||||
14 | ★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt) | 30m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | Average | Wed 19th May 2021 | ||||
Great place for building sand castles
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14 | ★★ Organ Grinder - with emily small | 60m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
Awesome 1st pitch, rubbish 2nd pitch.
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14 | ★★ Polymorphic | 60m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Nov 2021 | ||||
Overhung fist crack chimney... Grade 14... Pick one 😂
Explosive choss wrestling at its finest down low followed by a bomber groove, take a 4 or 5 and some 1970's style chimney grunting skills.
Probably a classic of the genre, giving it three stars idgaf |
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14 |
★★ Polymorphic
1
14
60m
2
| 60m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | ||||
Late start so just did first pitch. Awesome climbing! Don't expect a modern 14
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14 | ★ Death-bed Confession - with Geoff Draper, Graeme Hopper | 60m, 10 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 9th Aug 2001 | ||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie | 58m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 2nd May 2021 | |||||
14 | ★ Sod Direct | 25m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 2nd May 2021 | |||||
14 |
★ Absolutely Sweet Marie P1
1
| 58m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | |||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Mar 2024 | ||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie | 58m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 25th Apr 2011 | |||||
14 2 pitches (alt)
Trad |
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13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sat 10th Apr 2004 | ||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 | ★ Sod | 84m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
13 | ★★ Anthrax Ripple | 50m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 14th Mar 2004 | |||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | Sat 4th Mar 2006 | ||||
Very scary wouldn’t climb it again
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13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Apr 2004 | ||||
Great climb...however probably under graded for a 13. Descent really need 2 50/60m ropes. P1 lead = ME...P2 Lead = Dad.
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13 | ★ Sod | 84m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 | Mossy Corner | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Mon 15th Mar 2004 | ||||
Nice exposure and easy. Melissa Second. Only did P1 and P2.
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13 | ★ Sod | 84m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Sep 2003 | ||||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | Sat 4th Mar 2006 | ||||
Very scary wouldn’t climb it again
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13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2004 | ||||
run p1&2 together rap off, top 1/2 is ordinary. lead p1,2 second 3,4
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13 | The Necromancer Variant Start | 15m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
13 | ★ Sod - with Ian Hofstetter | 84m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 16th Sep 1977 | |||||
13 | Mouse Trap Chimney - with Ian Hofstetter | 40m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 17th Sep 1977 | |||||
13 | ★ Hop - with Ian Hofstetter | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 17th Sep 1977 | |||||
13 | Jump - with Ian Hofstetter | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 17th Sep 1977 | |||||
8 13 | ★ Barrel Organ - with Ida Ginstrup, Robin Imskog | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Wed 9th Oct 2019 | ||||
Only did the first pitch to the tree belay. Great easy beginner trad climb with good pro.
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13 | ★ Barrel Organ | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | ||||
Led first and last pitch. Erosion at the tree anchor at the top.
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13 |
★ Barrel Organ
- with
Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally
1
2
3
| 81m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||||
13 | The Necromancer Variant Start - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally | 15m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||||
12 | Scottish Legacy | 50m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Tue 28th Dec 2004 | ||||
bit ot route finding involved...
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12 | ★ Homesick | 50m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Thu 14th Mar 2002 | ||||
Nice climb. bit dirty
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12 | Scottish Legacy - with Ian Hoffstetter | 50m | Wolgan Valley | Thu 11th Sep 1975 | |||||
11 | Yagi Link | 50m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | Tue 28th Dec 2004 | ||||
first pitch only - second pitch (chimney was manky brittle crumbs)
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11 | ★ Reunion Blues | 48m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2013 | ||||
Great fun, a bit mossy on P2 but well worth it.
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11 | ★ Dinner Ale Double Direct - with Ian Hofstetter | 40m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 18th Sep 1977 | |||||
10 | ★ The Amphitheatre (The Ampitheatre) | 57m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 7th Jun 2003 | |||||
10 | ★ The Amphitheatre (The Ampitheatre) | 57m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Thu 14th Mar 2002 | ||||
A great expedition. Lovely view. Mel second.
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9 | The Chain | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
9 | Diarrhoea Chimney | 72m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | 2003 | ||||
lower section awful but top is good
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9 | Diarrhoea Chimney | 72m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Scary shite!
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9 | The Chain | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 29th Nov 2009 | |||||
9 | Diarrhoea Chimney | 72m | Wolgan Valley | Crap | 2003 | ||||
9 | Diarrhoea Chimney - with alison curtin | 72m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Mon 15th Oct 2001 | ||||
I found this to be quite an adventure. Choss all the way, massive rotten chockstones for slinging, and a grovelling exit with great exposure! One star just for the experience!!!
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8 | ★ The Pulpit | 39m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
8 | Don's Easy Climb | 76m | Wolgan Valley | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Access to top or bottom
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8 | ★ The Pulpit | 39m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jan 2005 | ||||
great for an 8. meaty start. exposure.
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8 | ★ The Pulpit | 39m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
8 | Scunge Gully | 36m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
8 | ★ The Pulpit | 39m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | 1999 | ||||
7 | Omega et Alpha | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses - with Peter | 72m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 24th Dec 2018 | |||||
Excelent exciting adventure climb. Linked P1&P2, and P3&P4 together. P1 is beautiful and can be done as a single pitch. P2 really enjoyable funky climbing in to the corner under roof. Belay stance was on top the suspended somewhat worrying block but good pro (sml-med cams) . P3 was probably my most exciting trad lead yet.. #4 deep in under roof crack then a couple of pumpy moves. Continue corner crack to top. Belay off tree which had on it slings and biners. 2 x 70m ropes easily got us to the ground in one rap with rope to spare. 60s might just work to but best to check!
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16 |
★★ Conspiracy
- with
Andy
1
16
15m
2
16
20
| 35m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th May 2018 | ||||
First ever trad lead on second pitch... but ran out of large cams near the top so had to traverse right to the chain at the top of what should be "Barton's Effort".
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23 M0 24 | ★★★ Smash Hits | 30m, 5 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Aug 2014 | ||||
Flashed using the original M0 rest with a tonne of beta from Neil. Amazing featured climbing that keeps getting harder and harder all the way to the final boulder problem at the top. Quite run-out (5 bolts -2 close together- and 1 piece of gear in 30m is exciting), and the crucial #3/#4 cam down low protects a monster ground fall, but the stunning climbing (which would be a borderline megaclassic elsewhere) makes it all worthwhile. A rarely climbed masterpiece of technicality.
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22 | ★★ Dien Bien Phu | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | ||||
Thin - Lucky to get it first time - Now than my hairline is thinning I don't like thin climbs!
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22 | ★★ Dien Bien Phu | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★ A Spoonful of Sugar | 50m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Sep 2001 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
The reason we came here 7 years ago (but forgot small gear) and the reason we came back today. Great onsight by Emil which set the theme for many flash repeats placing gear. Hard pull at the crux roof with bomber gear then good crack holds above.
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Heath Black, Emil Mandyczewsky, Jason McCarthy, Jenna Brady, Ben Jenga | 40m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Basically an onsight placing all the gear but there had been talk of the route all day and so i had a bit of an idea of what the crux entailed. In true form though everyone else's tall person beta was of no help to me! Really great climb but insanely cruxy. Absolutely eats wires and if you had a double rack of them you almost wouldn't need to bother with cams.
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21 | ★★★ Static - with Levi Worden | 18m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Jan 2021 | ||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | ||||
20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | ||||
awesome, loved it solid for the grade and just enough gear to keep it sane, managd to get a vertical big bro in a slab!
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20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Sep 2001 | ||||
20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Mar 2011 | ||||
lots of positive slab holds. Wasp nest near the top
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20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | Sun 15th Sep 1996 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Matthew Glendenning | 35m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | ||||
20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Oct 2016 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Tuff warm up, I can tell I haven't climbed many slabs recently cause this felt hard. Great fun though.
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20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Placing gear but with chalk all over it I can't claim an onsight. I think this is better, harder and longer then tranzister. Great rock on this one.
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20 | ★★★ TDM - with Will Vidler | 35m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Flash placing gear. 8m of brilliant and sustained thin/finger crack (that I found quite challenging), and lots of "pretty good" crack climbing. We really should trundle those loose blocks in the bottom 1/3rd to make it an even better route. I thought this was tougher than Tranzister (though not as good).
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Jason McCarthy | 35m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
No-beta flash, but Jason McCarthy had kindly equipped and chalked up the route for us. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but climbs brilliantly, and with some spicy spaced bolting that is just on the right side of sanity. Very technical, varied, wandery, sustained slabbing. Reminded me of The Belles, The Belles at Railway Cliffs (which is a good thing!)
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20 | ★★★ Ishtar | 50m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | ||||
One of the best crack routes at the grade anywhere. So good.
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 35m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | ||||
Went up it at the end of the day in the light rain with no beta to get the draws back. Truly awesome varied and improbable slabbing with a bit of spice added by the bolt spacing. I learnt that runout wet slabs are hard and scary.
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20 |
★★★ Ishtar (Ishtar P1)
- with
Heath Black
| 25m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | ||||
Flash placing gear. Seriously good jamming after only two metres of choss. Great varied crack climb on crazy slick rock! Should join the list of must do classics at this crag! Glad you persuaded me to do it Neil!
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20 | ★★★ TDM - with Peter | 35m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | |||||
Best route of the weekend! The finger crack section has incredibly satisfying finger locks..the whole climb was just stellar! everything had good pro. Loved 0.3-0.5 cams. And lots of medium nuts. Only saw now from the description that I didn't actually finish it.. As I rapped off the chains.. Oh well.. Guess I'll have to do it again 😋
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Grace Mackie | 35m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Sep 2020 | ||||
Felt somewhat bold for the grade with spaced bolting. I think I strayed a few times into the route to the left but just couldn't see any other holds that looked OK for the grade. Interesting technical face climbing throughout.
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20 | ★★ Acoustic Corner - with Cosi Hofman | 80m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 21st Jan 2022 | |||||
19 | ★ Agent Orange | 90m, 3 | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 20th Sep 2008 | ||||
I have now climbed at The Wolgan! Amazing!
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19 | ★★ Lysander | 56m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Aug 2014 | ||||
Awesome climbing with some funky positions through steepness. Playing in the infamous sandpit (lie-sand-der) wasn't so bad, but the full-on run-out squeeze chimney to the top was a bit intimidating. Very trad.
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19 | ★ Agent Orange | 90m, 3 | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 27th May 2017 | ||||
First pitch only. Low crux, a little sketchy, then fun moves through the scoops. Worth a lap.
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19 18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Feb 2000 | ||||
19 18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Sep 2004 | ||||
awesome, slabbing aret at its best.
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19 18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Apr 2011 | ||||
Fantastic route, glad I decide to lead it.
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18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Oct 2016 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th May 2017 | ||||
Too much beta spray about to log an onsight!
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18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | ||||
Great to tick off this classic. The middle wide section was quite tricky. Perfect rock.
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18 |
★★ Decline and Fall (Decline and Fall P1)
- with
Heath Black
| 20m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | ||||
Flash placing gear. Funky corner that is way easier than it looks. I finally got to use some of my micro cams and in a short section of absolutely amazing rock! It gains an extra star from me just for that.
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18 | Where Eagles Dare | 30m | Wolgan Valley | Wed 20th Aug 2014 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | Wolgan Valley | Wed 20th Aug 2014 | |||||
18 | ★★ Just Don't Be Weak - with Cosi Hofman | 30m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 21st Jan 2022 |