Ascents in M & M having Beta

Awesome fun. Beautiful splitter with a lot of rests,looks easy to protect. Next time will lead it.

Toujours aussi beau!

La difficulté est très consistente tout au long de la voie. Magnifique! Mais dur :o J'ai travaillé un peu le crux, sinon le reste a été enchainé!

Glad I got this!

I would recommend double 3s and double (if not triple) 2s.

Great climb, tons of rests.

Took a fall on a .5 towards the end of the main crack in the context of a course. One of the best crack I've climbed.

Very sustained.

Great climb, almost took my first fall on gear but saved it and managed to get the send.

Still feel hard!

After my first piece (which was a poor choice) popped, I lost my head for leading this.

Lived up to its reputation. Excellent.

Climb is not as easy with an ankle injury lol. Still a very good crack. double #3 recommended

LOVED LOVED LOVED this crack! Not too painful, not too scary and not too easy. Very doable if you're comfortable with hand cracks. Doubles from .4 to 3 recommended,(not sure if bigger and smaller were used). Definitely double in the .75-3!!

Felt pretty easy compared to m&m, considering the grading isn't that far appart. Unlike the latter, this one has good foot rests every like 2-3 meters so your ankles don't have to suffer as much

Good sustained climbing. First 2-3 meters are harder to protect since the crack is thinner and the slab is more polished. After that the whole crack is a solid number 1 and 2, with bomber foot jams. The slab to the left gets better as well with more features. Right ankle hurts like a bitch towards the last 1/4 of the route.

In terms of gear, I used .5 and .75 at the beginning, and then switched to 2s and towards the end went back to 1s and 75s. There was a 3 in the middle right before or after the 2s. At the end there's more of the .3-.5 range. DOuble rack definetely recommanded, I think I even had triples from .75 to 2. Maybe if 5.8 is easy for you it's doable with a single? Idk. I think doubles in the .75 to 2 is needed nevertheless.

Took a fall on the second move. Started from the bottom again and sent it.

Super wet!!

Warm up for the day -- felt harder than I expected. Made me worry about my planned lead of M&M -- but that went more smoothly than expected.

One fall, one rest to put crack glove son.

Fun.

Went more smoothly than I expected, especially after how rough Krakabra felt.

sortie 10a a droite

Strange route setting. Remaining 1 bolt is unecessary and anchors are placed just prior to what should be the crux of a harder climb. Just seems wrong.

Great climb. This may even be easier than M&M if your crack skills aren't up to par. Felt closer to 5.9-

Always happy to get this clean on lead.

Harder than I remember -- but still easier than "M&M".

Very good crack climb!

Great crack climb!

Always a tough lead.

Sustained climbing, so always nice to get this clean on lead.

You have to like hard, vertical slab...

Superb, wonderfuly protected and varied crack.

Not as well protected as mentionned, but still nice!

cool sidepulls

Again, pushing my trad lead grade. Almost took a fall near the top of the first crack, but stuck it. Then got the sequence to move onto the face wrong, and did fall after clipping the bolt. Got back on, and finished the rest cleanly. I should be able to get the red-point if I can come back before I forget how to do that sequence.

The crack wasn't nearly as thin as it looked to be from the ground. Might not protect too badly, actually.

One of my goals for the day... push my trad leads a bit. I got this one, and was very happy for it. The move from the first crack to the 2nd felt very committing on lead.

Protection is generally good, though a bit thin right at the start.

Went after it after several other hardish climbs. Got to 4th bolt with a couple falls, then couldn't pull the move (probably crux) at that point. After 6 or 7 tries, bailed.

Looks to be a good climb, though, and I should come back for it.

Wet!!!!! eats Camalot #2

Slab.

Still a great crack. Seconding was made more interesting here, because the leader just buried his gear: spent a lot of time trying to get it back out. Solid gear and some really cool moves.

Crimp... slab.. crimp... slab..slabbbb......

Second ascent of the day, this time on top rope: actually got to enjoy the climbing. Which really is lovely.

A sad showing: I sport led this on sight, on my partner's gear, and my brain went away. Hang dogged the whole damn thing. Been a while since I really needed to think crack technique and I think that did my head in.

Lead it again. Still an awesome climb.

Got the red point on my 2nd lead attempt. No particular move is, really, harder than 5.7 or so, but it is continuously sustained at that level for most of the climb, and far harder if you're not comfortable with crack techniques.

Sustained is the word. Climbed with a cracked rib