Routes in Capitale Nationale

Usually climbed in three pitches but could be four if you stop at the first bolted anchor.

1. 5.8

   Start in a chimney-like feature making your way to a first ledge with a big boulder. Climb up and left towards a bolted anchor. From there, either traverse left to another bolted anchor and head straight up to the obvious crack with a nose (Pinocchio) OR climb up from the first bolted anchor and traverse the slab a little higher to reach the same feature. Build a gear anchor there.

2. 5.8

   Climb up the obvious crack feature and follow the natural path of least resistance (trending right-ward) until you reach the second bolted anchor of 'La Directe de l'ours'.

3. 5.6

   Same as 'La Directe de l'ours', climb up the thin finger crack to an exit crux onto a pocketed slab to a bolted anchor.

Descent: Rappel with two ropes down 'La Directe de l'ours' . Be mindful of ascending parties and watch out for wind when tossing ropes and horns when pulling them.

One of the more traveled routes on the Mont de l'Ours. Dries out fast in the spring due to unsettling wind and south-facing conditions.

Climbing

1. 5.5 45m: The first pitch starts at the toe of the buttress, on its right side (facing the parking lot). Climb the line that attracts you, may it be the wide crack on the left, the easy face in the middle, or the hand crack rail on the right. Eventually made your way to a clean dihedral (5.5) or escape on the easier ground just to the right. Before the obvious crack systems start trending right, either build a gear anchor or climb slightly up and left to find the bolted rappel anchor.

2. 5.7 60m: Follow the obvious crack system that is trending rightwards until you reach a broken-up corner that leads to a nice ledge. You could choose to build a gear anchor here. Look up for an obvious wide crack (5.7) and follow it up to a second bolted rappel anchor located below the obvious finger crack of P3.

3. 5.6 35m: Climb the obvious finger crack, exiting on a cheese-grater style pocketed slab. Climb past one giant bolt to reach the top rappel anchor.

Variations

1. P2: 5.8+ Follow a crack system straight above the anchor. Very technical and fun climbing. The pitch is sustained at the grade and protects mostly with finger-sized pieces and nuts.

2. P2: 5.8 Follow a crack system past two bolts straight up

3. P2: 5.6 Keep going right along a ramp past the ledge to a tree belay and then straight up to the summit. This variant climbs a different P3 at around 5.5

Descent

• Always rappel this route.

• DO NOT attempt hiking out

  you are not anywhere near the summit of this mountain.

• Use two 60m ropes to descend from the summit in three rappels. straight down. Beware of the wind and many opportunities for your rope to get stuck. It is possible to rappel into the climber's right gully and use the trees to get down if your rope gets stuck.

Start near the start of 'La Directe de l'ours' and follow the path of least resistance trending up and right following rails and broken cracks. Possibility of reaching the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours'.

Descent

Same as 'La Directe de l'ours'

Climb a series of small faces up the left side of the cliff.

The crux pitch was originally aided through at 5.8 A1 and later freed.

Three stellar pitches sandwiched in between underwhelming passages.

1. 5.8 From the base of the climb, choose your desired path to reach a grassy ledge with small trees 40m off the deck. Build a gear anchor below the overhang.

2. 5.9 Make use of good footwork, or layback your way through two overhangs. Build a gear anchor just below the third one. This belay spot protects you from the loose rock after the next pitche's crux. 45m

3. 5.10b Continue following the same feature until a small cave allows you to rest just before going to war with the off-width section. After the fight, traverse left on loose blocks and build a gear anchor (#3/#4) below an imposing chimney.

4. 5.8 Jam through a guano-filled crack, and stem your way up the chimney. Exit right using questionable undercling holds. Either build an anchor or continue following the path of least resistance.

5. 5.5 One or two more pitches of lichen, dirt, and bushwalking will lead you to the summit.

Variant pitch for Lido

Variant after pitch 1 of Lido

First route climbed on Mont des gros bras.

The most traveled route on the "Mont du Gros Bras". It is now surprisingly cleaner than most climbs on that mounting but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't be extremely careful while climbing. Since it's the most popular, if there are cars in the parking lot, chances are this is what they're climbing. Mostly gear anchor, meaning that retreat would most likely involve leaving gear behind.

1. 5.8/5.9/5.9+: Scramble up a large detached block to reach a left-leaning finger flake. Follow its "C" shape and choose one of three options to the obvious dihedral above: Straight up through broken blocks (5.9+), go around to the left (5.9), go around to the right and traverse back (5.8).

2. 5.4: Up the dihedral. Can easily be linked with P1. There are a few gear anchor options in case there is a slower party there.

3. 5.7: Follow a wandering crack up and slightly right to a tree ledge. Either belay from there or link the next pitch.

4. 5.7: Climb the slab on the right, then pull the small roof (apparently easier on the left). Belay from the start of the dihedral.

5. 5.5: Up the dihedral then follow the bulging arete. Hard to properly protect but easy. Beware of loose blocks, there was an accident here in 2022.

6. 5.4: Climb through bushes, slinging trees, past a bolt (Stop here if linking with P5) to a large tree ledge.

7. P7/P8 Two options to top out from here.

Up the left dihedral (5.8), head for the slab on the right before entering the forest and belay from under a small roof. The next pitch avoids the small roof on the right and shortly after merges back with the original route.

From the large vegetated ledge, climb straight up behind the biggest birch tree available. Climb right around a small roof and follow the same crack system upwards past large flakes and horns. There are multiple options for building anchors mostly using big gear or natural features. 5.4/5.5-ish

To reach the true summit (and the descent trail), you can either unrope or use alpine techniques.

Class IV: Keep going straight up through small walls.

Class III: Scramble right around the features.

One of the newer route on the "Gros bras", mir wurst offers a more sustained alternative to the growing popularity of "Hals-und", both in difficulty and quality.

The start of the climb is 20m right of "Hals-und", under the large white flake of "Pilote de brousse". If you find yourself under the intimidating roof of "Simulateur cardiaque", you've gone too far. The first two bolts are visible from the ground, about 10m high for the first one.

1. 5.10- : Make your way to the first bolt, using every trick in the book to properly protect the moves. To pass the overlap after the first bolt, you'll have to take a step to the left and find a small crack (#0.2). Once you've clipped the second bolt (and are relieved to not have tested that small cam), climb the lovely finger crack up to the flake. Traverse left, passing a few bolts and reach a bolted anchor.

2. 5.8 : Yes, that questionable pile you've been looking at while belaying your second is indeed where you're headed... Watch your steps. The climbing is easier than it looks though. #4 was useful when exiting the chimney. When you reach the vegetated ledge, move around the corner on your right to find clean rock leading you to another bolted anchor.

3. 5.6 : Make your way to the dark face on the left side of the dihedral and climb it, heading for a visible bolt on the bulge. make your way over/around the bulge and use a diagonal crack to traverse to the right. Go up the dihedral until comfortable enough to belay. It is possible to link p3 and p4 into a long 65m pitch. Beware of rope drag

4. 5.7 : Keep going up the dihedral until a small ledge offers an escape to the right. Do NOT fall into the trap! Instead, climb 2m higher and use a horizontal crack to reach a small dihedral and overcome it to reach a large ledge with another bolted anchor.

5. 5.9 : From the anchor, climb straight up through fun technical moves. There are two dihedrals. Although it looks like the right one would be more promising, this is a time to ignore your instincts. The left dihedral offers great climbing and protects with small gear. After the dihedral, follow the crack up to a large ledge shared with the last pitches of "Hals-und".

6. 5.8 : Follow the dihedral 5m right of "Hals-und" (which starts near the birch tree). Once on a ledge, you'll find yourself under an impressive block that is unimpressively overcome through laybacking or simply manteling over. Once on the large ramp, make a gear anchor in the wide arching crack on the left wall.

7. 5.6PG : Make your way through the large arching crack. Scramble, jam, crawl, whatever gets you up! The section is a little chossy and doesn't protect well without wide gear. The climbing feels secure though. Once the obstacle overcome, merge with the last pitch of Hals-Und and make your way to the top through 5.5-ish terrain!

A beautiful, under-appreciated route. P1-3 are very clean, P5-6 could use a little cleanup. The following pitch description is ideal for rope drag management, communication, and crux sharing. Although it is certainly possible to climb "Sinus" in fewer pitches, the average party should stick to this.

This climb starts about 30m climber's right of "simulateur cardiaque"'s rooves. The massive "nose" between two dihedrals (second pitch) is clearly visible.

1. 5.7 Some technical climbing following a thin flake will lead you to a vegetated dihedral (few protections available). Follow it up until you are forced to make a short traverse to the right in order to overcome a small roof (5.7). From there, make your way to the start of the right dihedral. Build an anchor on a small ledge where two pitons are available.

2. 5.7 climb the dihedral straight through the roof (5.7) or traverse rightwards under it to an easier crack system (5.5). In both cases, you have a few anchor options. From left to right: 1. In the main crack - Uncomfortable but in line. 2. Two pitons with an old sling (add some gear) - A little less uncomfortable and a little less in line. 3. Nice ledge - Comfortable but not in line with the original line (this is actually the end of P2 of "Narine".

3. 5.7 From the main crack, make your way up and right, passing two overlaps by the right as well as a few horizontal cracks. Altertanively, you can climb straight up from the piton anchor (5.8PG). Once passed the second overlap, find parallel cracks heading up and slightly left. These will lead you to the big ledge, you'll find a bolted anchor on a boulder.

4. 4th class Make your way to the obvious ramp up and left. There is a nice, clean ledge just below the ramp.

5. 5.7 Climb the obvious ramp, making use of the crack and arete. As soon as you exit the ramp, build and anchor high behind a menhir (#3/#4) or expect massive rope drag.

6. 5.7+ Climb Straight up for some nice crack climbing passed a (very annoying) birch tree. From there, keep going until you're comfortable to unrope, bring your second up and make your way to the summit!

Descent: Take the Gros bras descent trail.

Older expansion bolts climbing from ledge to ledge to get to a final overhang section that is more easily passed from the right. Unknown history. Lots of loose rock. Bolted anchor with rings.

The obvious left-leaning crack splitting the cliff. Finish at the chain anchor. Goes on all gear or you can clip two of the bolts from the 'Uknown left side'

Unknown history, the name is a placeholder as of now in honor of the groundhog living there.

Same as "agoraphobie" but climbs the direct line for the first two bolts. The equipment in the direct part is more recent than the rest of the climb and well protected.

One of the older lines that haven't been retro-bolted like most of the cliff. Start to the right extreme of the main cliff (before the large cave) just above a few cedar trees. Follow rusted bolts using a flake feature to a comfortable ledge, walk left (above the direct start), and follow bolts upwards, past an overhanging section.

The anchor uses two vertical bolts that are equipped with rap rings.

A good way to introduce a new climber to multi-pitch or for new multi-pitch leaders. The climbing on the 3 last pitches is fun and sustained at an affordable grade. Often considered overbolted since it was rebooted without removing older (still in good condition 2022-09) bolts. Whenever the weather cooperates, this is often one of the more crowded routes in the area. Beware of the presence of poison ivy in the gully climber's left of the climb.

Climbing

1. 40m 5.6 - Start at the toe of the arete, following an easy handcrack to 4th class (bolted) scrambling until the start of the lightgrey arete.

2. 30m 5.7 - Follow the (many) bolts upwards never wandering more than 1-2m off the bolt line. 2 expansion bolts anchor.

3. 30m 5.8 - The pitch starts with the climb's crux, getting over the bulge. Then follows easier terrain to a bolted anchor.

4. 12m 5.7 - More of the same, ending at the dead tree at the top.

Descent

A walk-off descent exists but I have never taken it. Please update if you have more info.

Rappel: 4 single rope rappels to the ground. When rappeling the last pitch, there is a slung tree about 5m lower than the anchor which will get you to the ground. Beware of other parties.

Première vois de gauche, relais au milieu partagé avec Les Arches au Pitch 1. L1 : 5.9 L2 : 5.9

L1 5.10b Anciennement le départ de « Les Arcs » L2 5.11+ Sublime, style très « bloc ». Peut être passé en 5.11a/A0* L3 5.10d / A0 n’est pas possible en libre pour le moment (prise clé cassée) difficile à passer en A0* Top out possible ou prévoir deux cordes pour le rappel, attention arrête coupante.

Dalle

Jolie mais courte, peut servir de L1 à Trad Sale

Anciennement « l’autre variante de la variante des Arcs » Ancrages sur plaquettes, top out au sommet de « Yves Laforest » TRAD L1 : 5.6 / L2 : 5.8 / L3 : 5.8 / L4 : 5.7 / L5 : 5.5

Very well-bolted multi pitch with good ambiance. Would need a little more traffic. Get on it people!

Climbing

1. 35m 5.9+ - Start under a birch tree in a crack. Follow the bolts up some very nice moves up and right until you avoid the imposing orange face by going around an arete onto a slabby face with good holds. 12 bolts.

2. 15m 5.6 - Start in the large crack, climb over easy terrain until the "garden". If you find yourself lost, look right through the bushes to find your way. This anchor is shared with 'Microgravité'. 7 bolts.

3. 20m 5.8 - Climb the slab with a few balance moves to the next anchor.

4. 20m 5.8 - Keep going up the slab to the top anchor.

Descent

Descent: It is possible to make your way to 'L'aigle' and use the area's trail to walk back down. More info needed.

Rappel: Rappel your way to the 2nd pitch anchor. From there, rappel 'Microgravité' (35m) out right.

Extremely well-bolted climb. The crux is at the beginning (still very well protected). Very nice movement on a clean face.

Nice initiation to longer routes. This climb apparently goes at 400m but I have my doubts. Starts as a slab then the route wanders to find easier terrain. There are a lot of other very interesting features to be climbed on gear around.

1. P1: 5.3 - Easy slab. Follow the bolt line. The pitch is ~66m if you start from the bottom of the slab. If you have a 60m rope and don't want to simul-climb, belay from the first bolt.

2. P2: 5.4 - Starts being a little steeper but still slab.

3. P3: 5.6 - You can either pull through the juniper bushes or avoid them by going around to the right.

4. P4: 5.6 - There is an obvious bolt up and right from the anchor. This is not your route. You are going left. Watch out for loose rocks around the belay.

5. P5: 5.6 - Traversing out and left through a ledge with a few trees.

6. P6: 5.7 - Left and then up. This pitch probably has the most interesting climbing of the whole route.

7. P7: 5.7 or 5.9 - There are two variants here. When you get to the headwall, you can either go up and pull through 1-2 moves of 5.9 or go out and right to avoid it. The 5.9 variant is more interesting.

Top:

Enjoy and great view of the region and the surroundings and a good refueling break as you can roam free around the top of the climb.

Descent:

To descend, you can either rappel or walk off (not recommended).

• Rappel

  1. Stuck ropes are common, you must have the necessary skills to handle stuck ropes and self-rescue. Budget 5+ hours to descend.

  2. Most rappels are longer than 35m. Bring two 60m (or longer) ropes.

  3. The first rappel station is roughly 5-10m right (climber's right) of the P7 belay station.

  4. There are seven rappel anchors. The rappel anchors are independent of the belay anchors, except for the anchor of P5. The first two rappels are climber's right of the route, the last four are climber's left of the route. Follow where gravity wants to take you.

  5. In 2021, a rappel station was added above P5 to mitigate stuck rope. While it is possible to rappel to P5 from the top, do NOT skip this rappel anchor. At P5 belay anchor, take a moment to locate it right above you. At P6 belay anchor, it should be to your right.

  6. There are a many trees over at climber's left to escape. Some may already have slings but make sure you inspect them.

  7. Most pitches are a little more than 30m so try not to link pitches on the way down if you use the bolted anchors. The last rappel can safely be skipped with two 70m ropes.

• Walk Off (Not Recommended)

  1. Follow the red flags to the parking lot.

  2. Note that this route does not lead back to the base of the climb, if you leave items at the base, you will have to hike again from the parking to the base and back.

Much less climbed than its bolted sister, this climb is surprisingly clean of moss and offers much better slab and crack climbing at an affordable grade. The climb follows great features from bottom to top. The R grade comes from the first pitch on the slab which is hard to protect (some gear spoiler in logged ascent).

Disclaimer: Grades and pitches info are approximate since we simul-climbed it. Please update information as you see fit. Although mostly on solid rock, this climb is still adventure terrain. Make sure you know what you're getting into.

Climbing

1. 5.5R 70m: Start climbing about 20m right of the 'Sport 400' and about 10m left of the tree-line splitting the cliff. The first pitch climbs up a friction slab to a slight, shallow dihedral which offers few protections. Make your way up to a pile of broken fridge-sized blocks. Beware of loose rocks. Warning: There was some easily avoidable poison ivy on the first overlap encountered ~15m from the ground.

2. 5.5 ~70m: Climb over the bulge to a low angle, left-leaning dihedral. Possible tree/gear anchor on a comfortable ledge. There might be a line in the larger dihedral right of the bulge.

3. 5.6 ~60m: Follow a nice crack splitting the blocky black rock straight up from the previous ledge, through one steeper move. Move on to a few easier slab moves to another tree ledge. Lots of loose rocks.

4. 5.4/5.9 ~50m: This pitch bypasses the first big roof seen from the ground on the left. We climbed through the tree patch up a slightly overhung and very mossy off-width crack (5.9?). Bring a #5 or sling a forearm-sized tree trunk. Alternatively, you can chimney your way up between that forearm-sized tree and the wall to the right of the off-width. It might be possible to avoid this by climbing between the room and off-width.

5. 5.4 ~40m: A shorter pitch through easier terrain brings you to a bolted anchor right below the big roof overlooking the whole climb.

6. 5.7?/5.9+ 35m: From the bolted anchor, we climbed straight up from the anchor through 3-4 overhung bouldery moves. Hard to protect properly. After a bolt, there is a second bulge that is easily passed by going left for 2m and following the flake under the roof right back into the correct line. You then get to climb a wonderful and exposed dihedral past a bolt to finish this wonderful pitch with 10m of easier slab. Gear anchor in a large finger-sized crack curving left. I believe the first bulge can be avoided by climbing 2m to the right. Looked like around 5.7 (confirmation?)

7. 5.8/5.5 ~40m: Climb up the stellar squeamish-style finger-crack to a crux traverse move and then made your way up towards the shrub guarding the summit. An alternative is going out right past a visible glue-in and up some easier terrain(5.5?). Either build a tree anchor or use the bolted rappel anchor. (This leaves the second unprotected for the finish section.)

Descent

Follow the same beta as for the 'Sport 400'

Description to be updated.