Ascents in Schrollwand

It went okay until the third bolt, then came the crux where I was promised reachy moves. Sadly, long arms aren't enough here, and I couldn't figure out how to do it. Used the clipstick to get past it, and realized that this is way beyond my current skills. At the next bolt, things looked even more hopeless, so after a few half-assed attempts, I gave up. Seeing Christoph Rauch trying it later convinced me that this is in fact quite hard.

While approaching the roof, I broke off a flake and took a nice fall. I couldn't do anything meaningful in the roof, so I retreated.

Bit wet today...

Fantastic slab, tricky balance game in the middle, a good mixture of jugs and small holds. Perfect, black rock.

Also quite nice. Not sure why the first bolt is in the chossy chimney, though. Much more sensible to start via the slab and go directly to the second bolt, which I did. Varied climbing: Offwidth crack section to an interesting dihedral/rooflet, and another, more powerful rooflet with hidden holds in the wall above and a mediocre undercling to gain them (crux move) before the anchor.

Worked out the moves to the second bolt in top rope. Didn't feel so hard, so I gave it a try.

Got the foot up for the final rockover and wanted to pull, but lost grip in my left hand … bummer!

Got the two-finger pocket in a wrong way and it was too painful to pull on it. However, I did many things better in this try, could do almost everything statically.

Didn't have any juice left to put the foot up for the final, strenuous heel hook rockover.

The longest route here. Varied climbing with interesting holds. Hard passage before the last ledge. The start is a bit awkward, but still okay. You can either go directly over the third bolt or go around left, not really a difference in difficulty.

Actually not the best #warmup because it's slightly hard on the fingers, but still a brilliant route.

Tried with the beta I had worked out last time. No chance. Had to work it again to finally arrive at a beta that uses the most-ticked hold of the route.

Fell in the crux and had to change beta slightly again.

Got beyond the crux, but forgot to put my foot on an important foothold before continuing, so I fell in the upper section when my heel hook slipped.

Finally got everything right. From the two-finger pocket (left hand) and the good crimp, hook left, right foot up a bit, then bump left to the mediocre pinch. Left foot up high, pull up, bump further left to the chalked sidepull, bump up right to the other sidepull.

Hollow structures in the lower part, but beautiful climbing. Crux is the crack/bulge at the top, which I solved with a nice crossover move.

Shares the start with "Recycler" and then draws out into the roof on the left. Body tension problem to get into the jugs on the left, a hook helps you up into the wall. Maybe soft in the grade.

#warmup

Skipped the moves over the first bolt after fiddling around a bit and worked out the rest.

One from the series "disastrous but successful". Tried mantra's beta for the lower part, changed it ad-hoc and it somehow worked out, but I was a bit more stressed out than I should have been. The middle part worked out quite nicely, but when I set out to do the last few moves, I backed up mid-move and realised I couldn't do it with my original beta. So I used most of the strength I had left to go back down into the good rest, and tried something completely different: hook with the left foot on the ledge, then pull up on a mono I hadn't even seen before. Nice wall climbing on sometimes tiny holds with cool sequences.

Great pocket climbing after three meters of slightly brittle crimps.

Had a hard time figuring out the crux above the third bolt. Involves a long move out left to a mediocre two-finger pocket that wants to be pulled from the left, so you try to get into a gaston position by shuffling your feet around, but then you also need to get them high enough to reach for the big pocket below the bulge. And then there's the finish over the bulge. Tried it on the left first, to no avail. The holds are quite dusty and there's no way to brush them from below, so I eventually gave in to the clipstick idea, only to find out later that my solution in the end would be a dyno to the jug to the right of the anchor.

Didn't get the gaston pocket quite right, so I dropped off. Took me a few attempts to get it right again, but then managed to reach the anchor without resting again. Should work out when fresh.

Dried off meanwhile. #repeat #lastrouteoftheday

Just a quick #repeat after the adventure shortly after sunset.

First (documented) ascent since 1976! Not a recommended climb in the current state, but you can get in plenty of protection between the moss. Done in 2 pitches. Some choss around, but overall good rock. Didn't find an abseil ring, but there's a good tree at the southern end.

Delicate start up and left on hollow flakes to a peg (good red cam as backup), then up left to a nice hand crack (another peg in the upper third of the crack). From there it's completely overgrown, had to swing from tree to tree to the top.

Much greenery especially at the last few meters.