Ascents in Schottertaler Wand

Lots of chossy rock in the first half.. The second half is really nice to climb. Got lost on the last two meters to the anchor and had to rest.

I'm not in great shape and really had to pull through the last couple of moves, but I made it. The big chunk in the middle was really scary, but seems ok for now... But a great climb.

Bold route. Chossy only on the first few meters, most of the route is solid. Exposed section starting from the ledge, with a daring step out into the wall, followed by a traverse, protected only by a rusty peg. However, there's a new bolt half a meter further on, but if you keep that clipped, the rope drag will kill you, so better unclip it after the next bolt. Brilliant pockets after the traverse, but be prepared for a few smaller holds just before the end! Upper end of 7-.

Hideously loose up to the big ledge, and harder than 5+ for sure. It's certainly better to go up via the bolted slab to the right of the first bolt (unnamed new route). From the ledge, it's fantastic rock and cool exposed dihedral climbing. You can use the anchor of "Schneckenkante" on the left.

Good route, albeit with lots of fragile structures up to a few meters after the ledge. Be especially careful about the big chunk directly after the ledge, which will certainly break off at some point. Great finishing meters with wedged blocks to a crack and a pocketed finale.

Great black rock in the upper part. Hard moves for the grade, but truly rewarding. Felt fantastic in the golden evening light.

Looks chossy, but turns out to be quite solid, especially if you know how to handle a crack. A little hard to navigate above the ledge, but fun moves and a good line.