Schaufels Guide

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Table of contents

1. Schaufels 34 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 Ebinger Turm 2 Kaiserweg 3 Normalweg 4 Herbstweg

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.090644, 9.070143

description

The Schaufelsen in the Upper Danube Valley is the largest non-alpine rocks of Germany and an outstanding climbing area. The rock group between 'Traumfels' and 'Blicklefels' has a large alpine tradition. At the main sector are an array of classic and modern routes routes over several pitches. The secondary sectors offer challenging climbing routes.

Germany-wide known is the 'Kaiserweg' with its five pitches, developed by the team Günter Nothdurft and Walter Seeger in 1955. More classics are the 'Alter Ebinger Turm Weg' from the year 1936 as well as the now disused 'Vagabundenweg' from the year 1948. Modern, sometimes extremely serious sport climbing routes can be found at the 'Traumfels', in 'Hölle', in the main sector and at the 'Blicklefels'.

access issues

==[de]== Folgende Routen sind ganzjährig freigegeben. Im Oktober erst ab 12 Uhr:

==[en]== The following routes are open all year round. In October only from 12 o'clock:

• 'Gerader Riss'
• 'Koi Weib, koi Gschroi'
• 'Via Veterano'
• 'Normalweg'
• 'Leere Welt'
• 'Bled Gloffa'
• 'Dreamteam'
• 'Godfather of Rock'
• 'Trizeps'
• 'Direkter Einstieg'
• 'Chrome Dome'
• 'Sese'
• 'Cats'
• 'Zwergentod'
• 'Schurer Gedenkweg'
• 'Bröggale Oder Was?'
• 'Traumpfeiler'
• 'Utopia'
• 'Herbstweg'

==[de]== Folgende Routen sind vom 1.8. bis 31.12. freigegeben. Im Oktober erst ab 12 Uhr (flexibles Brutzeitende):

==[en]== The following routes are open from 1.8. to 31.12. In October only starting from 12 o'clock (flexible incubation end):

• 'Alter Ebinger Turm Weg'
• 'Kaiserweg'
• 'Ravioli unter roter Sonne'
• 'Rivalen unter roter Sonne'
• 'Schöner Riss'
• 'Doktor Mabuse'
• 'Im Reich der ...'
• 'Die Sonne am ...'
• 'Klaus Werner Gedenk Weg'
• 'La Fête De Plaisir'
• 'Jenseits von Afrika'

Always check the website of the IG Klettern Donautal / Zollernalb e.V. for news about prohibitions and temporary abolitions.

approach

From the parking space (48.08905, 9.06776) follow the marked path to the 'Schaufelsen'.

ethic

Leave no trace

• No camp fire and bivvy.
• Don't leave toilet paper.
• Pick up rubbish.
• No unnecessary noise.
• Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

inherited from Donautal

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1.1. Ebinger Turm 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.091437, 9.070224

approach

From the parking lot follow the road to the left into direction of Hausen. After about 100m head right and follow a narrow trail to the base of the rock. To reach the start of the route you have to use a Via Ferrata.

descent notes

Don't exit to the top of the rock. This is not allowed due to nature conservation. Rappel three times (35m, 45m, 20m) starting directly at the top belay. Two 50m ropes necessary.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Alter Ebinger Turm Weg Warning Rock: Felsausbruch seillänge 4 von 5 This route is a little alpine adventure in the Danube valley and features varied climbing in an impressive environment. A must for everybody who prepares for routes in the Alps. Protection is sufficient but can be easily improved with nuts, friends and slings. For the descent (abseiling 35m, 45m, 20m) half ropes with 50m length are necessary. Topo by Stefan Geiß: jpg, pdf Abseiling: From the top ascend to the loweroff before the downclimb, from there straight down into the unknown where you will find another loweroff (to bolts with chain) and from there get to the ground. FA: Häderle & Diener, 1936	6	Sport 120m, 5, 14
test

1.2. Kaiserweg 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.090620, 9.069765

description

Topo by Stefan Geiß

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Direttissima FA: Nothdurft & Pfäffle, 1956	9	Trad 4
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★★★ Kaiserweg Very popular and long multi pitch route with a difficult traverse. FA: Nothdurft & Seeger, 1955	7	Sport 120m, 5, 31
3		Ravioli in roter Soße FA: Stöhr & Werderfrau, 1986	8+	Sport
4		Ravioli unter roter Sonne FA: Stöhr & Baumgärtner, 1985	8-/8	Sport
5		★★★ Schöner Riß Shares the first pitch with the Kaiserweg and is a good alternative if the Kaiserweg is crowded. The second pitch offers an additional belay station after about 25m. FA: Mayer & Arthur Oswald †, 1956	7-	Sport 95m, 3, 22
6		Doktor Mabuse Climb in via 'Schöner Riss' (2 pitches). Shares the belay with 'Im Reich des Zyklopen' FA: Andes, 1982	8+/9-	Sport 4
7		Im Reich des Zyklopen Climb in via 'Schöner Riss' (2 pitches). Shares the belay with 'Doktor Mabuse'. FA: Pelger & Funk, 1989	8/8+	Sport 3
8		Die Sonne am Kaiserhimmel	8+	Sport
9		Klaus Werner Gedenk Weg Same start as 'Gerader Riss'. FA: Kiene & Federle, 1977	7+	Sport 7
10		La Fête De Plaisir FA: Georg Hermann, 1990	7+	Sport
11		Jenseits von Afrika FA: Fritz & Eberle, 1987	7+	Sport 2, 10
12		★ Gerader Riss Third pitch is closed and protection is removed. Great climb. Rocks may be useful. 1st pitch 5 bolts, 2nd pitch 6 bolts FA: Blickle	5+	Sport 50m, 6
13		Koi Weib, koi Gschroi FA: Brotzer, 1988	6-	Sport 3

1.3. Normalweg 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.090111, 9.070057

descent notes

Abseil descent (15m, 20m, 30m) following the markings to the right of the sector Herbstweg.

1.4. Herbstweg 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.089705, 9.070423

descent notes

Rap off only! No exit on to the rock top.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
5+		★	Gerader Riss	Sport 50m, 6		1.2. Kaiserweg
		★★★	Normalweg	Mixed trad 85m, 3, 6		1.3. Normalweg
6-			Koi Weib, koi Gschroi	Sport 3		1.2. Kaiserweg
6		★★★	Alter Ebinger Turm Weg	Sport 120m, 5, 14		1.1. Ebinger Turm
		★★★	Leere Welt	Sport 90m, 6		1.3. Normalweg
			Rissausstieg	Sport		1.4. Herbstweg
6+			Normalweg Linke Variante	Sport 90m		1.3. Normalweg
7-		★★★	Schöner Riß	Sport 95m, 3, 22		1.2. Kaiserweg
		★★★	Via Veterano	Sport 100m, 4, 16		1.3. Normalweg
		★★★	Herbstweg	Sport 80m, 10		1.4. Herbstweg
7		★★★	Kaiserweg	Sport 120m, 5, 31		1.2. Kaiserweg
			Chrome Dome	Sport 15m, 4		1.3. Normalweg
			Trizeps	Sport 80m, 7		1.3. Normalweg
		★★★	Schurer Gedenkweg	Mixed trad 80m, 3, 6		1.4. Herbstweg
7+			Jenseits von Afrika	Sport 2, 10		1.2. Kaiserweg
			Klaus Werner Gedenk Weg	Sport 7		1.2. Kaiserweg
			La Fête De Plaisir	Sport		1.2. Kaiserweg
			Cats	Sport 35m, 8		1.3. Normalweg
			Traumpfeiler	Sport 85m, 12		1.4. Herbstweg
7+/8-			Bled Gloffa	Sport 90m, 6		1.3. Normalweg
8-		★★	Trizeps Direkteinstieg	Sport 8		1.3. Normalweg
8-/8			Ravioli unter roter Sonne	Sport		1.2. Kaiserweg
		★★	Sese	Sport 35m, 7		1.3. Normalweg
8			Godfather of Rock	Sport 80m, 8		1.3. Normalweg
			Super Super Trizeps	Sport		1.3. Normalweg
			Zwergentod	Mixed trad 90m, 2, 6		1.3. Normalweg
			Boogie Woogie	Sport		1.4. Herbstweg
			Bröggale Oder Was?	Sport 80m, 10		1.4. Herbstweg
8/8+			Im Reich des Zyklopen	Sport 3		1.2. Kaiserweg
8+			Die Sonne am Kaiserhimmel	Sport		1.2. Kaiserweg
			Ravioli in roter Soße	Sport		1.2. Kaiserweg
		★	Dreamteam	Sport 35m, 11		1.3. Normalweg
8+/9-			Doktor Mabuse	Sport 4		1.2. Kaiserweg
9			Direttissima	Trad 4		1.2. Kaiserweg