Donautal Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Donautal 1,101 routes in Crag

18 19 20 27 28 29 21 17 15 22 25 31 24 12 11 30 32 2 33 14 8 10 13 7 6 5 4 3 1

1 Kreuzfelsengruppe 2 Rabenfels im Bäratal 3 Beuron 4 Bandfelsen 5 Eichfels 6 Fachfelsen 7 Hohler Fels 8 Schreyfels 10 Bischof 11 Bahnhofsfelsen Hausen 12 Glasträgerfels 13 Kreenheinstetter Trobel 14 Hausener Felsen 15 Dachstein 17 Stuhlfels 18 Eulenwand 19 Traumfels 20 Hölle 21 Schaufels 22 Blicklefels 24 Lenzenfelsen 25 Falkenwand 27 Bröller 28 Bad Man Rock 29 Rabenwand 30 Donaucalanques 31 Teufelsloch 32 Aussichtsfelsen 33 Dreiecksfels

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.064578, 9.033440

description

This area is named after the upper danube valley where most of the listed climbs are located. It is part of the Upper Danube Nature Reserve (German: Naturpark Obere Donau) and is located in the south of Baden-Württemberg in Germany and encloses primarily the districts of Tuttlingen and Sigmaringen.

Links

• IG Klettern Donautal Zollernalb e.V.
• Broschüre Klettern im Naturpark Obere Donau vom Deutschen Alpenverein

access issues

At the crags it is not allowed to bivvy or to lit fire!

Because of nature conservation issues there are some completely restricted areas and climbs. For more Information please visit the website of the IG Klettern Donautal / Zollernalb.

Also check out the official government docs:

• Kletterregelung Karte
• Kletterregelung Allgemeinverfügung vom 29.04.2008
• Kletterregelung Änderungsverfügung vom 28.12.2016

approach

From Sigmaringen take the L277 in direction west. After 5km you hit the first crags: 'Dreiecksfels' and 'Aussichtsfelsen'.

From Tuttlingen the L277 winds itself for about 25km through the beautiful Danube valley. Then you reach the 'Schreyfels'.

where to stay

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2022 beginnen die Bauarbeiten für einen neuen Wohnmobilstellplatz in Beuron im Donautal. Hier entstehen 22 Stellplätze sowie neue Sanitäranlagen. Infos zum Eröffnungstermin finden Sie unter www.camping-buck.de

Hausen im Tal

• Ebinger Haus
• Guesthouse Murmeltier
• Camp ground Hausen im Tal

Thiergarten

• Wohnmobilstellplatz
• Piratenherberge

Other Places

• Wanderheim Rauher Stein, Irndorf
• Out and Back Camping Sigmaringen

More information about accomodations can be found on the website of the Naturpark Obere Donau or TripAdvisor.

ethic

Leave no trace

• No camp fire and bivvy.
• Don't leave toilet paper.
• Pick up rubbish.
• No unnecessary noise.
• Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

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1.1. Kreuzfelsengruppe 45 routes in Crag

1 2 4 3 5 6

1 Bellavista 2 Konfliktpfeiler & -mauer 3 Talwand 4 Nadelfels & Balme 5 Zäpfle 6 Geierfelsen

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.041965, 8.895402

description

A group of small cliffs above Mülheim a.d. Donau and below Kolbingen. Suitable for climbing in the winter season.

The crag is relative new and you may find loose rock. Therefore a helmet is recommended.

access issues

• Use only the prepared and existing trails.
• No access from the top!
• Don't leave the trails.

approach

Park at the parking lot at the emergency telephone on the road towards Kolbingen and use the marked trails.

1.1.1. Bellavista 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.044798, 8.893734

1.1.2. Konfliktpfeiler & -mauer 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.043873, 8.893715

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Konfliktpfeiler
2		Fitzkarus Set: Haußmann	8+	Sport 6
3		Apokalypse Set: Haußmann	7-	Sport
4		Fichtenwandl Set: Haußmann	6	Sport
Konfliktmauer
6		Leon Set: Haußmann	6	Sport 6
7		Wer hätt's gedacht Set: Haußmann	7+	Sport 5
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★ Lichtspiel Set: Haußmann	8	Sport 7
9		Robert-Bosch-Gedenkweg Set: Haußmann	9	Sport 7
10		Deja Vu Set: Haußmann	9+/10-	Sport 7
11		Komische Eck Set: Haußmann	8-	Sport 4
12		Clowns und Helden Set: Haußmann	7+	Sport 7

1.1.3. Talwand 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.042312, 8.895183

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Heimatlied Set: Georg Hermann & Heindl	8	Sport 11
2		Pinocchio Set: Schulze & Georg Hermann	7+	Sport 11
3		Pinocchio original	{FR} 6b	Sport
4		Sebitissima Set: Georg Hermann	8-	Sport 11
5		★★★ Talverschneidung Set: Haußmann	7-	Sport 10
6		★★★ Blutspur Set: Georg Hermann	8-	Sport 11
7		Blue Eye Set: Georg Hermann	8+/9-	Sport 8
8		Blaue Lagune Set: Georg Hermann & Haußmann	6+	Sport 2, 9
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
9		Blaue Lagune - Direkter Ausstieg	7+	Sport 2, 10

1.1.4. Nadelfels & Balme 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.042510, 8.895220

1.1.5. Zäpfle 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.040013, 8.895539

1.1.6. Geierfelsen 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.039378, 8.897028

1.2. Rabenfels im Bäratal 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.079733, 8.929394

description

The Rabenfels is divided into two areas, which allow different climbing. The left rock offers only very few easy routes and rather hard climbing meters in solid rock. These routes demand particularly good foot technique. While the left part is very straightforward, the right part is clearly more difficult. It is not exactly more beautiful, but a lot harder. The overhang is only something for specialists who have enough strength and endurance. For the moderate climber the valley side offers a lot of nice variations.

The Rabenfels is partly vertical and slightly overhanging. The sun is early here and together with the view offers a nice atmosphere.

Very well protected area. In the easier routes you may take slings and nuts with you.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

Topos by rocktopo.org

access issues

Closed from 01.01. until 31.07. due to nature conservation issues.

approach

Park at (48.079469, 8.930995). Walk 30m north along the valley margin and then descent on the path to the bottom of the wall.

1.3. Beuron 45 routes in Area

5 4 3 2

2 Petersfels 3 Paulusfels 4 Fleischbank 5 Zuckerhut

Summary:

Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.049864, 8.968723

1.3.1. Bahnhofsfelsen Beuron 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.2. Petersfels 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 48.046281, 8.978319

1.3.3. Paulusfels 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.047669, 8.982622

1.3.4. Fleischbank 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 48.049118, 8.983588

1.3.5. Zuckerhut 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.050388, 8.983671

1.4. Bandfelsen 0 routes in Cliff

1.5. Eichfels 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.063332, 8.992034

1.6. Fachfelsen 0 routes in Cliff

1.7. Hohler Fels 0 routes in Cliff

1.8. Schreyfels 34 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 Dülferverschneidung 2 Amphitheater 3 Preußriss 4 Opakante

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.074628, 9.014254

description

If driving through the valley, coming from Beuron, the Schreyfels is the first cliff where climbing is allowed. It offers one classic route for beginners (Opakante) and many serious intermediate routes. All routes have at least two pitches and some routes start in the middle of the cliff.

access issues

The sector Amphitheater is closed!

approach

Park at the resting place at the road below the crag (48.07327, 9.00996) and follow the signs to the crag. Cross the hiking trail.

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1.8.1. Dülferverschneidung 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.074764, 9.013782

description

The most left part of the Schreyfels named after the first route in this sector. The are some nice intermediate climbs in yellow to grey limestone. Of 20 routes just 5 are allowed to climb.

descent notes

Rappel over the routes.

1.8.2. Amphitheater 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.074639, 9.014111

description

Overhanging sector between Dülferverschneidung and west face of the main cliff.

closed

1.8.3. Preußriss 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.074537, 9.014419

description

The main part cliff of the Schreyfels named after the first route set up.

descent notes

At the top their is guard rail and the start of the abseil is marked. Be careful below there are several routes. 3 x 22m

Another option is to follow the path into direction of the castle but don't enter it, it is private property. The trail passes the property on the left and heads down until you reach an abseil anchor. Rappel once 22m.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Bröselmüller FA: Volkert	7	Sport 60m, 8
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		Bröselmaier Shares the first pitch with 'Preußriss'. At the first belay straight up two bolts, then left. Laybacks until the second belay. From there to the right into a dihedral. Leaving the belay and climbing into the dihedral is the crux. Then follow the dihedral to the summit. First and second pitch can be done in one push. FA: Baur, 1971	7-	Sport 40m, 2
3		Auf Messers Schneide FA: Kästle & Steimle, 1989	8+	Sport
4		Preußriss Zustieg The route to climb in to the the starts of 'Kreiner Führe', 'Dezemberstreich' and 'Preußriss'.	4	Sport 20m
5		★★ Kreiner Führe	6+	Sport 40m, 2
6		★★ Dezemberstreich FA: Kreiner & Irmes, 1982	7+	Sport
7		★★ Preußriss FA: Walz, 1955	6	Sport 40m, 2
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★★ Efeuverschneidung One of the classics in the 'Donautal'. 22m (6-) Straight up to the end of the dihedral. Two slings and 3 bolts. Between the first and the second bolt a nut is useful to improve protection. On the band, after the dihedral, head right and traverse to the first belay anchor. Watch out for rappelling climbers. 22m (6) From the anchor back to the left and before the arete upwards 3m. At some big holes traverse left to the arete and then keep right to reach the second belay right of the arete and 5 meters below the chimney of pitch 3. 22m (6+) Traverse left to the arete again (2m) and then climb upwards to reach the second bolt of this pitch. At that bolt climb around the corner and piaz into the chimney. Here a green cam (.75) and some meters above a grey (4) are helpful. At the end of the chimney the route splits up. Left is the crack of the exit variant 'Direkter Rissaustieg'. The original route is 2m on the right of the crack. One bolt and one old sling on the way. At the top use the handrail or the trees to belay. FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1956	6+	Mixed trad 66m, 3, 11
9		★★★ Efeuverschneidung - Direkter Rissausstieg / Direkter Rissausstieg Very good but hard exit variant of 'Efeuverschneidung'. Crack skills, trad gear and endurance are necessary. FA: Kreiner & Fritz, 1982	6	Mixed trad 22m, 3
10		★ Brot und Speck FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1989	6-	Sport 66m, 3
11		★★★ Igelkante FA: Mayer & Arthur Oswald †, 1956	9-	Sport 60m
12		★★ Igelkante Ausstiegsvariante FA: Mailänder, 1986	8-	Sport
13		Alpamayo FA: Georg Hermann	7	Sport 110m, 3
14		Pfingstochse FA: Kreiner & Lebherz, 1985	7	Sport
15		Quadrophenia FA: Kästle & Steimle, 1988	8	Sport
16		★★ Holunderstrauchführe One of the best 6- in the area. Because of it's approach it is less often climbed and the rock is very good. The overhanging start is shared with the second pitch of 'Brot und Speck'. Follow the nice dihedral and crack up to the belay (just left to the third pitch of the Opakante). From there follow the crack again to the top. Keep left of the exit chimney of the Opakante. To reach the start climb in via 'Brot und Speck' or rappel from Opakante. FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1989	6-	Sport 40m, 2
17		★★★ Brot und Spiele FA: Kreiner & Dangeleit, 1987	8	Sport

1.8.4. Opakante 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.074349, 9.014578

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Opakante - Kamineinstieg BH pro SL: 7, 3, 4	3+	Mixed trad 100m, 3, 7
2		★★★ Opakante - Gedenktafeleinstieg Optional kann in der 1. SL nach 25m ein Stand gemacht werden (2 BH vorhanden). Dann sind es 4 SL. ;-) BH pro SL: 7, 3, 4	4+	Mixed trad 100m, 3, 7
3		★★★ Opakante - Rampe BH pro SL: 5, 3, 4	3+	Mixed trad 100m, 3, 5
4		Lianenweg FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1956	6-	Sport 100m, 3

1.9. Gaskessel 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.10. Bischof 0 routes in Cliff

1.11. Bahnhofsfelsen Hausen 0 routes in Cliff

1.12. Glasträgerfels 0 routes in Cliff

1.13. Kreenheinstetter Trobel 0 routes in Cliff

1.14. Hausener Felsen 485 routes in Crag

20 19 18 17 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

1 Parkplatzfels 2 Piccolo 3 Naturparkfels 4 Verlobungsfels 5 Garmischer Turm 6 Löchlesfels 7 Fuchsfels 8 Westliche Zinne 9 Dritte Zinne 10 Zweite Zinne 11 Erste Zinne 12 Fischerfels 13 Bergwachtfels 14 Eigerturm 15 Alte Hausener Wand 17 Adlerfels 18 Wagenburg 19 Schlossfels 20 Ypsilonfels

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.077253, 9.039257

description

The Hausener Felsen (Hausener rocks) are a group of cliffs south of Hausen im Tal, 150 meter above the Danube. They are the most known cliffs of the valley and feature varied climbing in all grades.

During the weekend it can be very crowded and the beginner routes are polished.

access issues

None

approach

Driving from Kreenheinstetten park at the parking lot of the so called "Kreenheinstetter Kurve", the first 180 degree turn. Cross the road and follow the signs to the crags. First crag, directly above the road is the 'Parkplatzfels'. Last ones are 'Alter Hausener Wand' and 'Eigerturm'.

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1.14.1. Parkplatzfels 65 routes in Cliff

1 2 3 4 5

1 Westgrat 2 Nightmoves 3 Rumsfeld 4 Rechts 5 Gufel

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.071607, 9.038376

description

For lazy walker but hard mover.

approach

Just cross the street. Use trails on the left for 'Westgrat' and right for 'Rechts'.

1.14.1.1. Westgrat 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.071899, 9.038077

description

Left hand side of the cliff.

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1.14.1.2. Nightmoves 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.071820, 9.038422

description

The center of the cliff.

1.14.1.3. Rumsfeld 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.071606, 9.038550

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1.14.1.4. Rechts 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.071440, 9.038598

description

Right hand side

1.14.1.5. Gufel 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.071288, 9.038735

description

The most right end of the rock

1.14.2. Piccolo 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.073029, 9.036594

description

Very small rock directly at the approach trail. Short but steep routes.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Monkey see, monkey climb FFA: Müller, 2014	8-	Sport 10m, 3
2		El Burro FFA: Müller, Schmelzle & Schwalm, 2014	8+	Sport 10m, 4
3		★ Happy Tree Friend FFA: Matt & Müller, 2014	7-	Sport 10m, 4
4		Miss Airbag FFA: Bitzer, 2002	7	Sport 10m, 2
5		Schlinge(l) FFA: Müller & Schmelzle, 2012	6+	Trad 10m

1.14.3. Naturparkfels 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.074073, 9.036871

description

The rock for kids. The base is not to steep and the routes are easy and quite short.

approach

From the Kreenheinstettener Kurve follow the hiking trail towards the Jägersteig and pass 'Piccolo'. Before the trail crosses the Jägersteig follow the signs to the right. A gentle climbing small trail leads to the base of the rock.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Rechter Fels The first wall arriving at the sector. No anchors at the top. Use the tree to set up top-rope.
2		Saftladen	2+	Sport 10m, 1
3		Bausatz	4-	Sport 10m, 1
4		★ Schnecktik	4+	Sport 10m, 1
Hauptfels The main wall of the sector with short but good routes.
6		★★ Hakuna Matata	6-	Sport 15m, 5
7		★★ Holterdiepolter Short trad line that starts with a juggy side pull. Followed by pockets and ends with some face climbing. Shares the lower off with Samson. FFA: Kai, 11 Jun 2021	6	Trad 15m
8		★★ Samson	4+	Sport 15m, 2
9		★★ Rangers Love	5	Sport 15m, 4
10		Direkter Einstieg	6+	Sport 15m, 3
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
11		★ Steiler Riss	6+	Sport 12m, 2
12		★ Kopiergang	5	Sport 10m, 2
13		Ratzfatz	4-	Sport 10m, 1
14		Kamin	2	Sport 10m, 3
Kleiner Fels The last wall of the sector. Right of 'Main Wall'.
16		Naturpark-Express	5	Sport 10m, 2
17		Express Verschneidung The crack-dihedral right of 'Naturpark-Express'. Top rope can be set up via 'Naturpark-Express'.	4	Trad 10m

1.14.4. Verlobungsfels 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.075981, 9.038438

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Verlobungskante FA: Storz, 1965	4-	Sport 25m
2		★ Verlobungskante Ausstiegsvariante	5+	Sport 25m
3		★★★ Pfeiler Former the hardest route at the Verlobungsfels which starts vertical at small finger crimps. The middle part is dominated by overhanging rock with some good side holds and long moves. At the end the face is vertical again and you need some skills in slab and crack climbing.	7	Sport 15m, 6
4		★ Speck, Bruch und Spiele Set: Daniel Stadler, 2020	6+	Sport 13m
5		Pikorua FA: Georg Hermann, 2013	8	SportProject
6		Zapfa a FA: Georg Hermann, 2014		Sport 13m, 8
7		★★ Koru Set: Georg Hermann, 2013 FFA: Georg Hermann, 2013	7+	Sport
8		★★★ Schräge Musik	6+	Sport 15m
9		★ Krumme Musik	6	Sport 15m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
10		Schwiegervater Set: Herbs, 2004	7-	Sport 15m, 1
11		Mitte Drei Ringe am Riss entlang folgen, oben hoch ein Plättchen, etwas speckig	5	Sport 15m, 4
12		Mona Set: Herbst, 2004	7	Sport 15m, 3
13		★ Rechte Verschneidung Warning Fixed Gear: Anquor point	4+	Sport 15m
14		★ Riss	5+	Sport 15m
15		Westkante Warning Rock: Many lose rocks	3+	Sport 15m
16		★ Zwerg	4	Sport 15m
17		Zwerg Einstiegsvariante	3+	Sport 15m

1.14.5. Garmischer Turm 15 routes in Cliff

1 2

1 Hauptfels 2 Nebenfels

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.076266, 9.038701

1.14.5.1. Hauptfels 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.076291, 9.038648

approach

Main rock direct at the path between 'Verlobungsfels' and 'Löchlesweg'

descent notes

Always rappel off-

1.14.5.2. Nebenfels 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.076223, 9.038808

approach

Pass the 'Hauptfels' and turn left, up the hill and pass the 'Löchlesfels'.

descent notes

Walking down is possible but the routes are short and the hike is steep.

1.14.6. Löchlesfels 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.076530, 9.038924