Small yellow coloured crag right of Nemesis. With a massive rebolting and new route effort by visiting American climbers this is now the best beginner sport crag in Lukenya and one of the most accessible sport crags in the country. In general the routes are short and featured and offer excellent opportunities for fledgling leaders to learn the ropes and clip some bolts. The increased traffic should keep the baboons (and thus the baboon poop) away!
©Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).
©Hike as for Nemesis but cut right off the trail 30 feet from the cliff.
©The left side routes have hook anchors - just clip in as for quickdraws and lower off these. Those on the right side have two-bolt anchors with maillons - when cleaning lower off these but watch out for rope kinking. Whenever toproping make your own anchor - do not toprope off the hooks or maillons, as this will wear through the hardware over time.
©Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.
©Originally 4 bolted routes were installed by Ia Westman and Asa Forsman. Those routes were chopped by an unknown party. In January 2020 the original routes were rebolted/repaired and 7 more sport routes were added. The old routes have 3 bolts, the modern ones have 4 or 5.
©Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)
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