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Egyptian

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Description

One of the best crags in Lukenya, with climbs with a wide range of difficulty, mostly with decent protection once you find it. Beware of hornets and bees on some of the climbs (Papyrus and Pharoah's wall especially).

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to the crag. You'll see a bolted route at the right side of the crag. Egyptian Crag lies about 200 meters left of the South Picnic Tree at the foot of the hill beyond Archway Crag.

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Descent notes

Walk down to either sides of the cliff, or rig a temporary abseil on a tree.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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History

History timeline chart

As per guidebook: The obvious vertical crack between Scarab and Sweet Fanny Adams has only been climbed as far as the hanging block on the right on account of a bees' nest just above.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start in the middle of left-hand buttress of crag at a crack surmounted by a double overhang and pointed boulder on skyline. Follow crack to overhang, pull up and move to final boulder which is taken direct.

A straight line between Cleopatra and Ammon, turning the overhang on the right and keeping out of the trees.

FA: R. A. Cooper, P. Le Pelley & C. Brown, 1960

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

Start just to the left of Osiris and aim for a small bush on the skyline directly above.

FA: M. C. Watts, 1973

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

To the right of Isis is a deep crack starting some 2.5m up. A hard start just to the left, then straight up.

FA: J. Temple & M. C. Watts, 1973

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful but there throughout the climb if you look for it. first ascent was headpointed.

FA: Mark Haworth, 16 Jul 2022

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Ian Howell, 1997

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

FA: A. Owen & F. Richardson, 1961

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. Climb to platform and then the difficult-looking wall behind to ledge for belay. Move right along ledge and climb short, strenuous crack on corner. Over boulder to finish on summit.

Start below right hand end of platform, where a fig tree affords an easy route to the platform. Ascend corner on left of gully to ledge and belay. Move left along ledge to small tree beside which an easy route will be found leading to the top. An alternative route to the platform can be made (9m, VS). Start directly below the second pitch on a wall with small holds. Ascend 3m, traverse 3m left, continue left-handed to good holds on the corner. (A. Owen; 1961)

Start as for Vulture's Nest to platform. Climb onto corner on right. Awkward step on point of corner leads to easy rock and direct to top.

Lies between Ptolemy and Sweet Fanny Adams on the buttress just to the left of the chimney. Climb to the pigeon-hole where an awkward move leads to a ledge at 7.5m. From ledge climb directly up or cross chimney to block on right and then up.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1961

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

FA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

FA: Joel M, Ian Thorpe, Joel Moktar & Ian Thorpe

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1958

The climb goes up the chimney immediately to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams. Back up the chimney facing right for 9m when a runner may be placed in the crack. Continue direct up the crack until the ledge can be reached. Traverse right 4.5m and ascend wall above on small holds.

FA: G. B. Cliff & R. Smith, 1960

Start 7.5m to the right of Sphynx on the corner. Up fault as far as possible then traverse right to corner. Climb direct to hole. From here onto ledge immediately above and take final pitch above. Follow fault for 4.5m then traverse and up corner to top.

FA: R. Smith, 1961

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. First section is tricky and technical to a large block. Climbing past this block is the crux, with different methods better suiting different heights of climber: either go straight up on poor crimps before moving right, or get a heel-lock and toe-jam in place either side of the block and reach straight for a small but positive crimp up and right. Finish on small crimps to top. Grade subject to debate, bu last 3 people to climb the route suggested 7b+ as the grade so that will be kept for now. FA and date unknown.

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1996

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Wed 17 May
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