Main Face is the largest of all the Lukenya crags and dominates the view from the North Picnic Tree. In terms of stature, this cliff is second only to Edinburgh castle at Lukenya. The old Lukenya guidebooks have frequently stated that belays and protections are difficult to find on this face but with modern equipment this is far from the truth, and over the years a few bolts for belays and protection have been added. A number of harder climbs with a couple of bolts at key moments leave from the belay of Drowning in the Shallow End and Arthur's Horror respective first pitches. Given the relative easier difficulty of the first pitches of these climbs a fun day can be had by rappelling back in from the bolted anchors at the top and ticking off several off these second pitches in quick succession. The climbs on the Main Face to the right of Arthur's Horror are various in number and their final pitches tend to merge on the upper slabs where one can in any case wander at will. The route descriptions pinpoint the starts but make little attempt to specify the remainder of the climb. Once past the initial pitches the slab climbing is no more that V.D 4a standard throughout and it is suggested that climbers choose their own lines of exit. Care should be taken here as protection due to doubtful flakes but good, if spaced out protection can be found if looked for carefully. It consists of three sections: South End—the dark vegetated slabs on the far left, the overhang above, the recessed slabs and walls immediately to their right. Main Face—the majority of the face with the longest climbs. North End— the shorter climbs at the right-hand end past the gully.
The routes below are located from left to right on the crag.
Recommended routes: Snake—V.D. Arthur’s Horror—S. Colin’s Caper—S. Bandstand—V.S. Drowning in the Shallow End—HVS Seventh Wave—HVS Hope Floats—HVS The Joker-E2
©Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).
©Abseil from one of the two anchors at the top of the wall. One set above Seventh Wave and another above Pier. You'll need two 60 m ropes to get to the bottom from the Pier anchor, but an easier option is to walk across to the Seventh Wave anchor and abseil back to the Arthur's Horror ledge, then another abseil from the anchors a little downclimb from that ledge. One 60 m rope is enough for this, though for the second abseil try and stay on the arete and come off it on the slightly higher ground to your right. If you abseil over the arete into the cave it's likely your ropes will get stuck, and if you trend too far left you'll be hanging a few metres short of the ground.
©Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.
©Perhaps the site of the best proper route as modern climbers would understand it in Kenya. Arthur's Horror was climbed in 1936 by Arthur Firmin, a British-Kenyan mountaineer and photographer, who would go on to some proud ascents (a short bio and some of his photos can be found here: https://www.bufordskenya.com/product-category/old-africa-photographs/arthur-firmin/). His climbing partner on the climb was Evelyn Baring, future Governor of Kenya and responsible for some pretty horrendous acts during the Mau-Mau rebellion. After that first flurry of routes, mainly the easier routes right from Arthur's Horror, climbed in nail boots and with hemp ropes, there were two main periods of development; around 1958 by Michael Adams and Alan Owen, and then a raft of harder routes, many now protected with a bolt or two at their cruxes, by the likes of Iain Allan, Clive Ward and Philip Winter.
©Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)
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