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description

Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff.

©

Route history

1936First ascent: Arthur Firmin & Evelyn Baring

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -1.48140, 37.07067

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Grade citation

S 4a Assigned grade
Mountain Club of Kenya
S 4a 12 Lukenya Climbs

ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

© inherited from Lukenya

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 72 from 12 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 5
Flash 2
Red point 3
Tick 14

Comment keywords

fun runout

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Wed 17 May
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