Routes as sport in Buzz Rock

Far left route on the wall. Climbs up easy slab to a hard finish clipping the anchors.

Just 10ft. right of Gracie's Bosch. Six bolts per pitch. Can be climbed as one pitch then rapped twice.

Jug haul.

1. 6 bolts. Mostly a jug-haul.

2. 4 bolts, couple natural threads available to protect some easy scrambling after the steeper start to the pitch. A bit vegetated.

Climbs through the alcove midway up the route on the white rock.

5ft. to the left of Green Flower Street.

First route you come to when you hike up to the wall. Far right side.

Alternate first pitch to "Five pitch harmony". Was cleaned to facilitate the rappeling.

Ruta nueva y divertida de 5 largos recientemente creada por Bob Cheeseman el día 16 de marzo del 2023

Esta ruta es muy buena y recomendable para los escaladores que quieren experimentar y probar el modo de multipitch. La dificultad progresiva es maravillosa y te recompensan con una gran vista en la cumbre.

Generosamente atornillada (protegida), libre de rocas y vegetación sobre la linea.

Climbing

Great climbing on confidence-inspiring, thoroughly cleaned rock. Bolted with beginners in mind, many people use this climb to get their multipitch systems dialed. It is not unusual to see multiple parties (I've seen up to 5...) moving relatively slowly up/down this climb. As of 2024, Bob added a second set of anchors to facilitate the inevitable party crossing. Use the bolts WITHOUT rap rings while ascending if there is a party above you. The top of buzz rock is very exposed to wind, bring an extra layer.

Descent

Rappel the route. On the last rappel (P1), decent straight down "revange of the whipped cream".

Other

Current speed record stands at 36.57 minutes and is held by Greg Hughes and Erik Kloeker (JAN 26 2024). It was claimed as "Buzz Rock" speed record, so I would assume "Sphincter Squeeze" is also fair game.

Rules as stated by the original party: Time starts and ends with both climbers touching the El Cubil kitchen door. Clip at least one bolt per pitch. Knots in the end of the rope for EVERY rappel. No stashed gear.

P1- 5.6 10 plaquetas P2- 5.5 11 plaquetas P3- 5.7 12 plaquetas P4- 5.8 12 plaquetas P5- 5.9 7 plaquetas

UBICACION: ULTIMA RUTA DE LA DERECHA DEL BUZZ ROCK, LA LINEA SE VE CLARAMANTE.

New route as of 02/12/2024.

5 pitches (400 ft) that start at the base on the right side of the Buzz Rock wall. Another great release for climbers starting out in multipitch mode.

Bolted for newer climbers looking to build confidence. There is a permadraw 30 ft. down from the anchors on pitch two to allow the rapeller to stay on the route and out of the cactus.

Pitch 1- 5.7 10 bolts

Pitch 2- 5.7 8 bolts

Pitch 3- 5.8 11 bolts

Pitch 4- 5.8 8 bolts

Pitch 5- 5.9 9 bolts

There are 4 permadraws under the roof section on pitch 5 in case the second cannot clean while climbing as the rapel line is significantly offset to the right. look for an additional set of anchors at the top of pitch 4 which will make the rapel from the top easier.

Special thanks to Greg Hughes and Robert Mencin for thier assistance setting up ropes and cleaning.

* Be careful of loose rock *