Routes as sport in El Potrero Chico

Just outside the cave to the right.

Open project.

Primarily an access route for the Nomad wall, includes some steel rungs. NOT bolted for a climber at the 5.5 level.

Nice climbing with a small tufa roof. Rock quality is not the best but it is very climbable.

2nd pitch is an open project. First pitch goes at 5.12b.

About 2 meters left of Wolf of the Desert

50' up the trail from "El Cacharro".

Pitch 2, trend right from the anchor.

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Never Cry Wolf", climb straight up from the anchor on "gold" hangers.

Start 5' right of "The Blacksmith".

1st pitch has 7 bolts, 2nd pitch has 5 bolts.

Ruta algo sostenida con movimientos exigentes dignos de un 10a. Grieta que va hacia la izquierda.

Crack that goes left.

Just right of "Little Red Riding Hood", both start off a small ledge. Ok climbing, but generously bolted for EPC.

Just left of "Big Bad Wolf", both start off a small ledge. Generously bolted for EPC.

35m of fun and jug-hauling up the long, vertical wall.

There may be more climbing above the anchors that are at 35m that is harder than 5.7

The main route goes straight up at the first anchor for the second pitch or you can take the easier variation on the 2nd pitch of Palm Snake which has you going left at the first anchor and is called Palms Away and goes at 5.10a.

Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.

1. 5.8 30m. Climb up a broken pillar leaning against the wall to a good ledge.

2. 5.9 25m. Climb up over a small roof then follow a left-facing corner with some tough layback moves.

3. 5.9 40m. Climb consistently good movement past an intermediate rappel anchor to a belay in an alcove.

4. 5.10a 15m. Step down and right from the alcove onto the steep face, then up to the top of the ridge.

Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground.

Start by going up lobos canyon and go right to the fin de semana west wall ridge. Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 30m Pitch 2: 6 bolts, 25m Pitch 3: 4 bolts, 12m You can climb down to the anchor at lobos wall and rapel lobos wall.

It’s the left most route (first route) on the south facing wall. Do not confuse this route with “Pepe y Lupe” which is on the west facing ramp on the Fin De Semana Wall.

Starts at the blue graffiti and trends right up in the corner.

Anchor is close to the anchor of Same Same but different

Access this route by climbing the first pitch of “Pepe y Lupe”/“Same Same but Different”/“Boltergeist”. Climb the wide and obvious ramp/slab all the way to the anchors of “Fin de Semana”/“Zuma Dog”. Just 1 bolt on the ramp. Not a ver popular route.

Climbs first few bolts of "Scavenger" then continues up arete.

Starts with a rusty hanger and trends right on the ledge after the 5th bolt. At the 7th bolt the route crosses Zuma Dog. Keep climbing the ramp after the first anchor for an excellent finish on superb rock and fun moves (6 more Bolts). The second pitch/extension is a little runout. Use an 80m rope for the second pitch.

Starts 15ft right of the old bolts on "Scavenger". Shares last 3 bolts with “Fin de Semana”.

At 40m, be very careful about lowering.

Starts on the grey slab and trends up right to an anchor on the grey rock.

Starts just left of the grey tufa, next to Camino del Diablo and Blade Runner. Go up and right after the 5th bolt, pull the small roof up on the grey rock.

Perma draws most of the route. Climb up to the ledge next to the small grey tufa and follow the crack trending right. There are different variants at the end of this route. 2 bolt anchor. Continue to the second anchor and you will be climbing “Amigo del Diablo”.

Starts on Camino del Diablo. There are 2 engraved aluminum signs fixed on the wall. Once on the ledge you trend right to the first anchor (which is where it crosses Hombre de Rifle) and continues on on the ridge.

P1: 5 bolts P2: 6 bolts P3: 10 bolts P4: 4 bolts

Rap down to top of pitch 2 and from there down to the ground.

Variation: start on "Camino del Diablo" and finish on "Hombre de Rifle".

Perma draws entire route, crosses Blade Runner at its first anchor (bolt 5).

Starts on Hombre de Rifle and ends on Sabbath.

Start on Hombre de Rifle, once on the ledge go right and follow the bolt line above Blade Runner. Anchor is high up on grey rock.

Start on Hombre de Rifle, then follow the obviuos arrete after bolt 4 of Hombre de Rifle to the right. It is the bolt line on the face, the one on the ledge is for Blade Runner.

Start together with Mexican Guarantee but branches out right after the second bolt.

Same start as Cosmic Intelligence. First anchor same as Never on Friday or alternatively Blade Runner. The routes can be linked with an 80m rope. P1: 10 bolts, 24m P2: 9 bolts, 16m

Easy climbing on bad rock at the bottom. 80m rope recommended. Its possible with a 70m rope putting a knot and having the belay scramble a little bit.

Starts next to the step up next to the bush. huge run-out from 5th to sixth. If you don't feel up to it you can bail using the anchor on the route to the right.

Pitch one has 7 bolts and Pitch 2 has 4 bolts. The route ends just below the Aztec Lounge (pitch 5 of "Estrellita") making this a possible alternate start for that climb.

One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

Start up the slanting chimney then face above to the groove/crack. Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo.

There is some variance in the grade of the climb -- Ed says 10d, Dane says 10b, and Frank says 10c.

Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa.

Needs a 70m rope. Over bolted, it can be easily aid climbed using the bolt ladder at the crux.

Needs a 70m rope.

Just left of Estrellita on the grey slab to anchors right.

This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner.

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

2. (5.9) More bolts.

3. (5.9) Left from the anchor, then trend rightwards. (Straight up instead of rightwards is the 5.11b variation.)

4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then up and right again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation)

5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

6. (5.5) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

7. (5.6) Keep going up the ramp.

8. (5.10a) Bolts, watching for a turn left and up.

9. (5.9) Bolts.

10. (5.10b, 5.9+ if you skip the crux by using jugs to the right of the line) Bolts.

11. (5.10a) Bolts.

12. (5.7) Up the chimney.

Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Starts just left of the small tree when you reach the flatter area hiking up. Passes right of the dead palm tree trunk and goes up to the yellow / grey block on top.

Starts right behind the small tree where the terrain becomes flatter. Finishes in the nice dihedral.

Anchor is just below the tree.

Starts left of the crack with the tree in it. Good rests but with multiple cruxes.

Goes up the grey slab with the small white tufa at bolt 2. this one will test your slab climbing skills.

Runs through the brown patch 2 bolts before the anchor.

Tricky..! Shares anchor with "Lickety Split" to the right

Starts behind the small tree, first bolt is right above the crack. Heads right after bolt 5 onto the yellowish / grey flake and back left after 2 more bolts.

Trends right passed the corner at about 2/3 of the height.

Starts just at the big block, finishes on yellow rock.

Just where the trail hits the wall again after a bigger tree. Has a name plate. Short and crimpy.

Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with "Landscaping"