Routes as sport in Las Estrellas

One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

Start up the slanting chimney then face above to the groove/crack. Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo.

There is some variance in the grade of the climb -- Ed says 10d, Dane says 10b, and Frank says 10c.

Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa.

Needs a 70m rope. Over bolted, it can be easily aid climbed using the bolt ladder at the crux.

Needs a 70m rope.

Just left of Estrellita on the grey slab to anchors right.

This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner.

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

2. (5.9) More bolts.

3. (5.9) Left from the anchor, then trend rightwards. (Straight up instead of rightwards is the 5.11b variation.)

4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then up and right again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation)

5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

6. (5.5) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

7. (5.6) Keep going up the ramp.

8. (5.10a) Bolts, watching for a turn left and up.

9. (5.9) Bolts.

10. (5.10b, 5.9+ if you skip the crux by using jugs to the right of the line) Bolts.

11. (5.10a) Bolts.

12. (5.7) Up the chimney.

Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Starts just left of the small tree when you reach the flatter area hiking up. Passes right of the dead palm tree trunk and goes up to the yellow / grey block on top.

Starts right behind the small tree where the terrain becomes flatter. Finishes in the nice dihedral.

Anchor is just below the tree.

Starts left of the crack with the tree in it. Good rests but with multiple cruxes.

Goes up the grey slab with the small white tufa at bolt 2. this one will test your slab climbing skills.

Runs through the brown patch 2 bolts before the anchor.

Tricky..! Shares anchor with "Lickety Split" to the right

Starts behind the small tree, first bolt is right above the crack. Heads right after bolt 5 onto the yellowish / grey flake and back left after 2 more bolts.

Trends right passed the corner at about 2/3 of the height.

Starts just at the big block, finishes on yellow rock.

Just where the trail hits the wall again after a bigger tree. Has a name plate. Short and crimpy.

Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with "Landscaping"

A new challenging multipitch route in Las Estrellas Canyon.

Grounded up by Alvaro Peiro during the season 22-23. FA by Alvaro Peiro and Matthew Moss in nov 22

• Gear: 20 quickdraws (some slings are useful), 70m rope

• Approach: hike up Las Estrellas Canyon trail. The first pitch is located between the routes “Ulack” and “Curse of the Furry Beast”, just before getting in to Club Mex Wall.

• Descent: the fastest and easiest way to get down is using the same rappels than the popular multipitch “Estrellita”. In case you need to rappel down the route you can do it with a 70m rope. Using quickdraws for guiding the rappels are helpful. Make sure to make knots.

• Climb: the route goes by the middle of Las Estrellas main wall. Sustained and technical climbing through dihedrals, traverses, cracks, steep walls and slabs. The rock is pretty solid but it is still sandy and chossy in some parts, but cleaned of rocks and blocks. Linking pitches is not recommended. A challenging route for strong climbers that wanna try hard multipitches!

L1: 30m/12- L2: 25m/12b/c L3: 20m/12- L4: 35m/10d L5: 30m/12d L6: 35m/12b L7: 20m/11b L8: 25m/12b/c

After R8, climb 3 meters of 4th class to get to Estrellita’s summit.

Follows the yellowish crack and flakes up through the small roof. A side pull feast in similar style as Fear of Flying.

Starts just right of ”Curse of the Furry Beast” and passes right of the roof.

First pitch 11 bolts to rap anchor.

Shares anchor with "Kung Pao Pupert".

70m rope.

A Potrero Chico classic!

Very nice route, the name of the route is written on the rock in blue ink in a yellow box, hard to find.

Follows the brown tufa to anchors below the ledge.

It’s the right most rout on Club Mex wall. The start of the route is a little bit hidden by vegetation. Climb the black rock slab on balancy moves into the vertical orange rock up above.

Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog".

Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog".

Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog".

Do "Gusada Negra" as the first pitch instead of the regular 5.11a pitch.

Finishes at the same anchor as the first pitch of "Super Nova". Can be used as a "softer" start for the easy cruising of the upper pitches of "Super Nova".

Starts with some technical climbing that ends on a nice ledge (you can use the easier "Gusada Negra" route that ends in the same set of anchors as well)

After that its easy climbing with classic EPC runouts to train you mentally for more EPC climbing.

There are plans to make it climbable all the way up the mountain but for now it ends in P8 where you can have lunch on.

Rappel down the line.

5.10d if you just climb the crack and don't use the arete.

Climb the slab into the crack up above.

Epic crack/dihedral

On the right end of the upper flake. Small features and cracks lead you to the top of the pillar. Anchor has two solid permadraws.

Climbs up solid grey rock just left of Tami's Pillar. Has a name plate at the start.

Climbs the east end of the pillar. Also used to access Plum Wall.

Climbs the face and crack on the front (south) side of Tami's Pillar. Share's anchor with Tami's Pillar.

P1: Climb up and left, traversing a little ways above a ledge for the majority of the climb.

P2: Money pitch. Pull through a few roofs. Technical and then physical and then a short section of hand crack.