Routes in Waikato for selected grade

A long rib climb set behind the Steer Pike, right of Shield and Back of Beyond. P1: Start left of rib, move onto rib and continue to foot of steep section. Climb onto small ledge then sloping ledge above, continue up through small groove to belay ledges. P2 starts after a short bush bash. P2: Bridge the groove and pull through the bulge (crux), move right on sloping ledges to steep broken section, finishing on good holds. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

About 8m down and right of Bishop's Rib. [1] Up the V-groove with an obvious small tree in it (that's your protection). Step right to the rib then up to belay tree and ledge. [2] Climb the wall below the flake, then step right and up the rib to ledges and trees.

This climb may be lost to history

Climbs the wall left of the 1st pitch of the China Wall Climb, and finishes up the steep wall left of its 2nd pitch.

Pitch 1, 25m: Start from the gully between China Wall and The Peeler. Climb the gully for l0m to a ponga tree from which a traverse can be made horizontally right to join the ramp of China Wall. Belay near the top of the ramp, where a traverse line can be seen leading diagonally right.

Pitch 2, 25m: Traverse diagonally right to a peg in situ (as for China Wall). Then trend left to a large spike runner. Continue up the steep wall, moving right to a crack then back left to finish at the high point of the wall. Descend by a 45m abseil or by track round to the Back of Beyond.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

From the bottom of 'Shade of things to come', follow the easy ledge out right to a shallow corner. Climb to the big ledge and gain the arete on the right. Climb the arete on good gear to the belay ledge. The second pitch needs to be cleaned...but if you are keen, from the belay climb to the large ledge above, to a groove out left and up this to the top of the buttress.

Follow the crimp seam to top out left

Directly up from the left pocket

Left-hand side of the crystal face

Fun climb up the arete. P1: 10 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 8 bolts

Climb skirting to the left of the white scrunge, then break right to access the two prominent blocks. Cut loose for a killer Instagram picture (optional).

Take a set of micro wires and get your sling ready for the top. Ab off one of the blocks.

The right hand side of the face with the sandy base. V0 for the sit start else VB.

Climb the slab directly.

The slabby arete.

The traverse then up. Bad landing on the left side.

Looks interesting but the landing is bad and the rock very polished by the river! Not recommended.

The fun, low level girdle traverse, just above the water mostly, at Hoffmans Pool on OKish banded rock (the occasional flakey edge or pocket). Step down when it gets too shallow on the far right side, if need be. Easiest and most convenient to cross to up-stream.

The featured slab/arete with a fun layback finish. A great warm up.

The serrated finger crack and bridge corner on the face left of Rohan's Little Sister, topping out above its anchors. A good first trad lead, extremely well protected on cams or nuts and hexes. At some point you need to commit to moving across, if you do so at the slot lower down (as per the ground-up first ascent) and just use the crack the grade is about 17.

The obvious crack on the left side of the boulder. It has been done as a highball (V3) if you dare...

Climb up the slab in the middle of the wall using the left line of bolts after bolt 3. Big ledges and smoother sections as you go straight up, then head right at the top to the anchor.

"one of the best 15's in the North Island" - Bryce Martin.

Start as for ‘Miromiro’ for the 1st 3 bolts then trends slightly right. The original 19 direct exit was rebolted to the right to keep the climb as a sustained 15 and to give the original line to the left (Miromiro), more space. A separate anchor was installed (single ring w/ chain).

Up the obvious crack in the middle of the face, then climbs parallel to Curious Kiwi, placing some good & some average gear (especially at the crux), instead of using the C.K. Bolts out left. Not recommended unless you have triple 0.5's (large finger size) and feel very comfortable at the grade.

Start right of the Animal Farm arete, then up the slab to the anchor

Lefthand facing corner crack, no anchor- scramble off.

Unrecorded for ages, more than one subsequent leader has thought they were doing a FA. Up the easy corner & hand crack left of Kykelliky, tackle the wide crack at top then traverse left to the Sugar Rush anchor when your feet are above its final bolt.

The uninspiring messy dirty groove between Secret Squirrel (RH start) and RMA, sharing the RMA anchor. Fragile rock, big loose blocks, definitely not a good early trad lead, and best avoided altogether.

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

The twin cracks, finishing left to the Peach Teats anchor.

At the back of the pinnacle, accessible by a hand rope. Nice climb with good views.

The easy slab/arete. Much easier and shorter than its Californian cousin.

The flaring broken chimney at the top of the buttress. Access to the upper tier.

The flaring broken chimney. Probably the best protected way to get to the upper tier.

The large body crack/chimney that splits the first face. Similar to Tibia.

A good first multi pitch with low consequence, easy moves and a good view.

Pitch 1: (15) A right-trending line that finishes at the big ledge. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 2: (15) Head up the slab, heading right after the third bolt. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 3: (14) Continue heading up the slab and past a ledge to the anchor. DBB. (4b)

Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be combined

Pitch 1 (15) Climb the crack and move left to the arete, continuing past 5 bolts and a wire placement, finish up the top crack of The Sweet and the Savage. (27m, 5b)

Pitch 2: (15) Right and up past 3 bolts to the belay. (5m, 3b)

Head up the bolted arete, splitting off left to the anchor. DBB.

Starts right of Have a Cigar in the corner. DBB high up in the cave on the left in the 'Rumpus Room'

Rappel down to the water from near the base of 'Human Intervention'

Climb the left-slanting ledges to the first pitch belay of Ziggy Stardust.

Start on big pocket hold at head height and slightly smaller pocket lower left, make way up smaller juggy holds (large wide jug on the right is out), reach to small ledge on grassy lip, move over right and match hands to finish. Easy fun climbing, possibly alternate/eliminate on same face as Double Dyno.

Left most route of the crag following the obvious crack.

Classic, but a bit polished and technically challenging for 15.

The wide crack on the left side of the small face.

The beginner-friendly finger crack.

Boulder start into the slab above.

Obvious chimney leads to a exposed finish.

Nice climbing on good rock with positive holds.

A nice chimney.