Ascents in Oceania as Tick by Vanessa Wills

My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.

2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle

One slip in off fingers section

Rpt to clean. 2 snakes visible but neither impacting the route. Required a few rests, was hot in the sun.

Not clean today because it was pretty mossy. Gave it a brush but needs more

A couple of rests remembering the sequence post footer breakage

Rpt

Rpt

Rpt

Hasn’t had much traffic lately

Rpt, much less stressful than leading

Rpt

Warm up through the fig

Rpt, slab dynos

Combined this with Drayton ( mainly because I abseiled too far). Tricky technical climbing

Did everything but the short person crux. Was in good form when I last did this,

Rpt

The crag warm up now with bolts

Rpt. A little greasy today, but not enough rain to make it dirty

Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!

A bit tired and sore skin and shoulder after 2 days at Nowra, but cleaning the house can only take up so much time. Fell off a few things due to not concentrating on sequence. Pretty cold and windy.

A quick couple of route before the rain hit

Well that was a surprise. Two goes today, first go finally worked out short persons way to do crux, then dave dislodged the key hold on his attempt. Still hadn’t got through the low bulge clean. Second go I dynoed the low bulge then somehow kept going and found myself through crux without a lot of recollection of the top, but I had identified two good resting stances so gunned for them. Shame it’s going to rain for the rest of our time in Tasmania, didn’t think I had a lead shot in me today.

First attempt, would probably need a few sessions on it to get clean, learning to milk rests and remember all the moves. The best way I could see to do the crux off a bridge doesn’t work for me, as can’t reach the next holds so need to refine a reliable sequence.

Jugged the first pitch after a late start ( done it previously). Second pitch took some figuring out, but it is all there. Third pitch I just couldn’t seem to initiate the crux stand up. Keen to clean up these pitches and do more up there. Stonking light and temperature today. The whole 3 pitches are great sustained climbing.

Lead it with a couple of falls, then top roped a couple of times. Can do it clean with my umbilicus at first bolt, but starting off the ladder is a touch too low for me to get established and very finger skin destroying so it wasn’t worth more time. Lovely moves on flakes and lots of gear. Generously bolted.

Two shots today, had to reacquaint myself first go. one fall at crux on second go, got back on without much rest and finished it. A super route. Definitely room for something hard to the left.

Rot

Rpt.

Exit

I’ve decided the moves are ok. I think the up grade from don’t bother to average is a Covid thing….

After repeating this again I have upgraded to good. Maybe it’s the new anchors

Rpt

Rpt

Rpt

Progress, got to second last hold, fingers too sore to have too many shots.

Made some upward progress, just have to link it and hope pebbles stay put

After the FA repeated it I was allowed to up the grade

Actually some good moves, decided to down grade to 19, which is right if someone has put the anchor draw on.

Cleaned out the glue so now all the bolt plates fit, did the mantle at the top, decided there must be an easier way to do the crux but not much luck.