3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air!
Around the cnr to the right of 'RAIN DANCE'. Start in depression and move right then up onto block. Veer left over bulge then right past shrubbery to top.
A good introduction to the thin pocketed
face climbing featured on this wall. Start
as Territorial Pissings (1 FH requires small
'biner) trending right past 2 FHs.
From VCC 2008 update: "Improved route description from Ian Anger: "It’s a line from a Cold Chisel song: They’ll transplant his arse on his shoulders". The buttress between Kraut and Talbingo. (1) 55m (22) Head up the centre of the slab past 2 BR to RHS of the steepening. Pass bulge via 3 BR then paddle up easily till it’s possible to dive into the crack on L and belay off cams. (2) 40m (20) Dive out of crack and head straight up past BR above ledge."
Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left.
Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010).
Neagle entered this route in his guide as a bit of a joke on the chossy corner to the left of ELV. 24 years later it's officially a route. Start as for 'The Power of the Choss Compels You', climb the LH side of the corner and just before the roof leave it and head towards the thin crack in the roof. Climb up and out of the slight overhang, mantle the slab and climb it to the top. No chains yet but they will be installed in the next few weeks.
The rock is shit. The gear is shit. Only climb it if you really feel the need to and even then don't do it. Climb another route instead. A serious undertaking with serious consequences if you fall!
Some good moves up the steep arete. A couple of wires before the 1st bolt, then bolt pro the rest of the way. The arete to the DBB on the lower LH corner of the black slab.
2: Up and out L to DBB. (Grade 16)
