Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

sling anchor is death

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

Start just R of M. Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool.

Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out.

On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left

Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof

Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab

The steep arête right of Missing Link following four bolts up and right before joining the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station at the U Bolt.

Straightens out the top section of the original by staying L of the last bolt, making it much better.

Start just R of Unrequited. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.

‘The archetypical wall of impossible-looking rounds’ – Louise Shepherd guide. Very sustained. Up arête 1m right of PV to prominent undercling, then reach to sloper. Crux moving past this to a small horizontal slot (bombproof double RPs), then onwards up slope-riddled slab. Traverse right to First Blood anchor.

Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets.

Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground to DRB.

Notable for an early send by Christine Gambert (FR) in 1986, when it was 29, likely the first female ascent at either grade in AU. Was also the first route in AU given grade 29, originally done by stepping L higher than is now the norm, but has slipped to 28.

Climb directly into Escape without bridging.

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles.

Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.

Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.

Desperate.

Start as for "Spellbinder".

Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder

Excellent sustained face that adds a hard start to 'Yesterday Direct'.

Start just right of Yesterday and climb past a fixed hanger to join 'Yesterday Direct', which continues up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday

Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.

The tough-looking bulge just left of Pumping, to lower-offs. Name TBC.

start 7m right of Cadence. Up to the carrot, then trend right to join Stigmatised.

It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.

One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance).

Tweaky

Climb the bulging arete to the right of Pooh Sticks - beware the tweak factor!

Originally graded 30, it has settled as a solid grade 28 and offers the longest piece of continuous steep climbing at Arapiles.

Start as for High Dive (although the FA started by traversing in from Belly Flop).

At the major horizontal break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, don't trust this (back it up !), but continue anyway through to "Power, Corruption and Lies" and another, even more horrible piton. Ignore this and instead, clip the 2 bolts and continue straight up to finish as for Cellular Destruction.

(Don't escape off R to the arete after the letterbox slot lest you be ridiculed by the climbing community)

One very, very hard move.. hence the name.

A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.

Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.

Desperate start past bolt with insitu krab. After 2nd FH move left past another to finish as for Is Your Washroom Breeding Bolsheviks? The bolts are looking a bit cruddy.

Same desperate start as for The 'Bolshevik' connection but at second FH go straight up past a third FH to thin crack.

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Uhuru channel

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

Starts just left of Uranium-234, up the blank face past FH’s. A big runout to either the L’Essence or Uranium-234 anchor.

Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug.

This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall.

Start as for "The Show Must Go On" on the massive jug rail. Go directly up to thin edge on the lip and finish the same as Encore. This line differs to "The Show Must Go On" as it eliminates the left sidewall. It requires tricky foot work, big biceps, and excellent tension to get out of the cave. The bat hang is one way, but is there another?

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.

Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff.

Upper Cave.

Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way.

Uhuru film channel

Satoshi

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grading

Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair!

Lower Cave.

Lower Cave.

Great line on left side of face climbing up to the seam left of definitely and avoiding all the holds up the centre. Not too hard at V7 but the hardest moves are at the top so a bit engaging. Can be climbed from stand or sit.

Eliminate.

Start as for 'Glass Half MT' but don't escape left and stay compressing up the prow. Stay off the high jugs and the left foothold. Finishes with a big move to the top right of the prow then tops out around the right.

Peter

Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.

Sit start on slopey rail.

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

Sit start on a good crimp and move up the blunt arete. The V7 (original line) traverses into crimps then slopers on the right side of the arete. Finishing direct on the arete goes at about V4.

This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017.

As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top. You can also approach from Seventh Banana, by stepping R after doing the crux on p2.

This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.

A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018.

Almost completely superseded by Sneaky Snake, especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33! Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 10m to third bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. Initially done with a batman start from the break above the 1st bolt (grade 30)

Takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks.

1. 25m (28) Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Can feel very hard for 28 until you work it out.

Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.

1. 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.

2. 30m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left (but not into World Party) and up to anchors. 60m rope is enough to lower off to 1st belay, if belayer is on the 1st belay.

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

Start as for To Catch a Thief (V4) on the two big pockets, link this into Remains of the Sheep (V6). The ledge is out.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.

Start as for SM, but avoid the pocket and stick to the arête. Slightly contrived, but offers some impressive and committing climbing.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it.

Start as for Full Cream and make a big throw right to blocky holds trending up to finish at the highest hold on the face. Good and dynamic.

monkeydoing channel

A very tough face.

Start: Start about 15m L of 'Milupa', 10m R of 'Innocent Fool'.`

The well publicised left side of the arch is probably the toughest route in Summerday.

Start: Start beneath the L side of the arch.

Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it.

Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug

Sit start on the right arete on the juggy feature. Make your way up the arete to top out.

Overhung arête right of Minute Man.

Sit start buried in the back of the cave on a good undercling feature.Climb out left through the roof to tricky moves gaining the lip and up the arete and dihedral feature. Glorious line!

Start as for Mr Knox but make hard moves out right of the roof to a slopey rail and follow the obvious line up to the top.

Starts on the large jug on the lefthand corner of the block (facing) and traverses right along the sloping lip to a final mantle for the finger pocket up on the slab.

Sit start on the left side of the slot (of Green Destiny). Climb straight up the face on crimps to a slopey top out over a potentially back-breaking landing.