Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Start on the big jug on the lip of the cave (righthand side). Traverse left into the end of Sharik's Roof.

Leah Dempsey | Phillip Booth

Start right on low jugs traversing left onto the arete just right of 'Sharik's Roof'. Top out just right of the arete.

Climb the high slabby wall through the pockets onto the scary blank slab at the top. One of the 'to do' problems at Belrose if you are into high, technical and scary slabs.

A couple metres left of the corner crack is a ledge with two pockets above it. Stand on the ledge and use the pockets and the very small, crozzly edges above. Move right to a very shallow, pockety break. Go up. Harder now the edges have broken a little.

Starting LH mono pinch and RH crimp, try find the good hold up and a little right. Mantle far over left at good jug. Rock is kinda sus but it's still probs the best line in the world...

From the 2nd lowest of the sharp curving edges, gain the slopey lip and traverse right to the top of Devil Child.

Sit start on a reasonable hold at the far left of the cliff. Forget your feet and pull up to 2 small holds and then move right to the sloper and up. Finish on the jugs or continue up to 'Stairway to Heaven'.

Sit start on the left side of the wall. Traverse the breaks/slopers to finish up Stranger Things.

Sit start on the crescent crimp (shared with SHOER) and the knob to the Right. Move through the line of 4 small slopers on the overhang to finish on a dynamic move. Bring a brush as the holds are always a little sandy.

Start on the lowest jug in the right side of the roof, separate boulder is out. Fire up big moves on large holds before topping out around the corner.

Start as for PBDGFBN. Huge shoulder intensive movement to the right before lip. Exit often wet after rain.

Sit start. Straight in roof with poor holds.

Start on the jug, big moves on good holds. Top is the last edge to crimp on the roof.

"Lucky Star" left side of wall

the only route not chipped.

20m right of FA at brown slime. Blast straight up the wall (BRs and small to mid size cams) to belay as for B P2. Rap off, or finish up B.

Sit start in the back of the cave on the obvious chalked side-pull, then it's crimps and slopers to the end. Finish up as for "Werner Heisenburg".

Phillip Booth

Sitstart at low right jug. Move directly up to juggy lip and then head slightly right and up to mantle.

Fun. Sit start in the dark-coloured cave and make a large blind move around the lip to a slopey jug. Hold the swing and move up to the better hold to finish.

Start by pulling onto the highest band of rock on a side-pull and an edge. Sandy lower ledges and separate lower band of rock are out once you pull on. Gain jug out left through series of flakes in the roof before traversing back right on the face. Finish high on the rightmost slopey jug. The problem can be started at the jug on the lip for an athletic V3.

Begin as for Burke's Backyard going up and then left into crimps before traversing into and finishing up Kumamoto.

Sit start left hand matching with left foot and right hand on juggy side pull.

Pull into an obvious undercling and slap your way up the arete to an awkward mantle. (Jugs past the arete are out)

Sit start with RH on arete and LH in low undercling. Up to lip and top out. Boulder to the right is off for hands and feet.

Climb wall to roof about 8m L of 1976, diag R thru roff to hard lip move. Old carrots. Backjump

A 20m roof in Sydney and on good rock. Fun gymnastic climbing. Big holds but upside down absolute pumper. The right most route in the cave heading far left out following the pockets and scoops to join the Riot Wing at the large flake, follow it to the anchors. This route was bolted as a tag team effort by Matt and Neil over three weekends. Crawling up into crouch cave after midway gives you a very long 24.

2m R of JB at the closed seam. Give it a go! Will be 27/28.

Super cool moves, cool pockets. Start far over L on slopey jug. Traverse R and finish up GP

One of the hardest routes in sydney!!

Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag.

Wow - Mega line. The King line of the crag. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam, traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose and finish at its anchors for now.... Sustained junkyard awesomeness

The Coneheads of the south west.

Sit start matched on a slopey shelf in the large hole. Make some tricky moves to gain the large bowl at the lip, then head right to finish in the break.

Sit start as Jazz Heart, traverse the left most holds till you reach a thin rail like edge large enough to match. Make a tricky move to a left pocket and finish as for "Max I Am".

Chris Beers

Starts about halfway between Jazz Heart and Style Cat at back of cave. Sit start on good horn undercling and pinchy undercling (in a smallish heuco). Straight out to the big heuco (Rogers Hitman) but stay low in this and traverse around the lip to finish up Style Cat.

Start on the two incut edges to the right of the Persistence ledge. Up and right to escape just left of Major Lightweight. Careful of the hollow edge and thin flake at the halfway point.

Peter Jeavons

As for Death Trap but exiting straight up the middle once you obtain the upper lip.

Start as for Death Trap. Campus directly up to the large slopey rail and match. Hold the finish and try not to slide off.

Start Shayzam, climb all the way left & finish up crimps of End Of The Line.

Shayzam & finish up Fantastic Mr Fox.

End Of The Line into Shayzam. Follow the lip all the way then up the arete.

End Of The Line into Fantastic Mr Fox.

Fantastic Mr Fox into End Of The Line.

Sit starts in the back of the cave (following the natural line out) and then tough moves going straight up over the lip from the big undercling.

Cruxy pinch move in Northern area.

The fallen block east face. Sit start down to the right at the pocket then move left up to the centre before comitting top out. Mad!

Just right of back snap. Crouch start and up on very nice crimps directly above rock pool, to gain slab left and top out. Good moves .

Classic problem of the crag . . Climbs the left lip and arete with legs flying everywhere ... committing finish

Basically the most obvious link from nidorans knee into pumprocker

Pumprocker into Punk soccer. The full value

Deep lying start, through the hard stuff then all the way out the chimney

Stand start on two good edges, high step to Gaston then lunge for that lip and hold the swing.

Instead of moving right hand to the lip, go with the left to a shallow pocket then RH bumps up to the good edge and mantle.

Start at the same jug as "the big book of slabs", then follow the crimp sequence around the lip and up onto the slab. Split from the "the big book of slabs" by moving right, away from the arete, to then mantle and top out.

Sit start on pockets, slap out left to slopers and then up and over with small crimp.

Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles!

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

An old 90's project finally put to rest! Starts to the right of 'Butterfly Wall Direct' on the detached block. Up through a scabby section (glued rail), then sustained crimping and a fun fight to the finish.

Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow. Start 6m right of Butterfly Wall, the same as for Stone Roses.

Tara Sutherland's mid-late 1990s ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Two bolts add a direct start to the fantastic drive bye. Start in the letterbox and get ready for some postage! This direct start avoids the big rest.

Links Top one Thommo into Slip It In. Apparently you traverse right out of TOT before its crux, and then finish up the redpoint crux of SII.

An old Wishart project. Start as for Lost Weekends then out the roof on the flake.

Link Up. Start up Sexy is the Word, cross though Skin to Skin and finish up White Trash.

A good fun boulder problem. The 'problem' is clipping all the bolts! A hard one to grade.

Start to the left of Fukdifino and join this route at the ledge.

Don't go getting offended by the route name, once again this was comment on what was happening in society (Black Death in Custody) when the routes were climbed and the music being listened to. Continuing the tradition of excellent 28's at Nowra. Backup anchor added in 2004. Start: Start 2m to the right of EFTDF. The undercling at the crux snapped off around 2012-13, but there's still a sequence.

Start just right of Brother in a Body Bag. A series of boulder problems that get harder the higher you get. Finish at anchors below rooflet.

One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here! The start slab often seeps but it's an absolute gem from there to the top. Start up the steep pumpy 15m corner crack to sitdown rest in cave, then launch out onto the awesome overhanging wall for 15m of bouldery brilliance to the top.

Liam McIntyre (2021)

An old project dispatched. Stick clip and batman to the start jug of Evil E, then head left and up to join Funky Gripsta. Excellent boulder problem and then pump to the top. About as hard as Evil E.

Start 5m R of the flake of Funky Gripsta. Stick clip & batman to start. Excellent bouldery moves most of the way, with possible heartbreak high and an inspired runout to finish.

Sit start at bottom of cave, just in front of the RHS boulder, with left hand in good slot and right hand on side pull. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse right to gain sloper jugs in large pocket. From here, head straight up, finishing with a big move around roof to a jug. Back wall is out (no dab).

Start as for 8 Bit Hero, moving right toward the hanging arete. Top at first break.

Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Same as for 'NSK' but jump left to jug instead of up to sloper.

Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

Far left bolted line on the face.

Alec Landstra

Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge.

Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)

The original project before Curds of Prey was found, the huge undercling at the lip looked so inviting. A cool sequence to turn the lip, then traverse left along the juggy red stone to the apex of the cheese wedge. Clip the chains on The Wheel of Cheese, then top out!

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

As for Stinky Cheese for 15 metres or so. Where Dick Cheese traverses left at the break near the end, go up for two bolts then left to Dick Cheese anchors.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Start on the good holds below the seam and head up via the enhanced slots and the "potato" hold and match on the finishing sloper.

Start as for Monkey Grip (V9), finished matched in hueco above and left of start holds of Gorilla Grip (V10).

Sit start in back of cave, where the major weakness meets the backwall, with your left hand in dish above your head and right hand on large pinch pebble. Follow slopers along the weakness, which eventually turns right. Finish in nice jug slot with dead plant coming out of it, just above the cliff drop-off.

Crouch start to the right of large slabby boulder on tiny boulder (under rooflet) with left hand crimp and right hand jug). Head up diagonally, doing your best not to dab the slabby boulder, and top out above the slabby boulder.

Super classic line with a rad compression sequence and lip pull. Starts way back in cave on jugs and finishes at the big slopey shelf. Could probably be topped out if it were cleaned and if you had lots of pads

Alec Landstra

The awesome line to the left of Father Figure, starts under the roof and then climbs the orange wall to the right of the cave.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome