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Underside Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cormac Tooze Marc dM Alta Lourette phlip olivier Charles Hopkins Matthew Robinson

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Underside 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
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F
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A
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S
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Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.092421, 18.435711

description

The best setting of a crag in the Peninsula. Great in Winter as all-day sun and dries quickly with the only seepage at one small part of one sector.

approach

From Kaapse Weg, near the top of the pass on the Noordhoek side turn off at Gate 2. Park at the end of the gravel road (-34.090558, 18.421029).

Follow the ‘Steenberg Peak’ path past a huge square boulder on the right and continue along until the path turns to the right and starts ascending. Once at the top of the valley (± 20 minutes from the car), take the left path at the split for about another 10 minutes. Keep a sharp eye out for a small cairn on a rock on the left (and another on the edge of the ridge) which marks the vague path on the left snaking through the shrubbery down to the crags. The path starts at a rain water runoff point on the left of the main path and a group of large boulders to the right (-34.093400, 18.435723).

Note: If you reach another split in the path at a stone sign with a huge low overhang to the right of the path, you have gone about 100 metres too far.

Follow the vague path along and down through some boulders to reach a broad ledge. Go right (facing out) along this ledge, following cairns and down a little rock step. Continue along and down till you reach a large cairn. From here descend a steepish grassy gully to reach another ledge.

You are now at the level of the crags. Go right (facing out) for Killer Wall and Middle Buttress and left for the others. To get to Faithless Wall: When you get to the broad ledge after going through some boulders, turn right (facing out) and continue along this ledge for a few hundred metres (following the odd cairn).

1.1. Faithless Sector 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.092404, 18.435887

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Muhammed Ali

Just above and slightly left of the 'Faithless Sector'

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

21 Sport 3
2 Tarantula

Video

Video

FA: S. Bradshaw (snr), 2014

30 Sport 5
3 Irreverence

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

25 Sport 5
4 Salva Mea

FA: G. Holwill, 2006

22 Sport 4
5 Don't Leave

FA: Guy Holwill, 2007

23 Sport 4
6 Drifting Away

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

19 Sport 4
7 I Want More (Part 1)

Warning Fixed Gear: No chains

FA: Doug Ward, 2006

21 Sport 4
8 I Want More (Part 2) / Mass Destruction

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

25 Sport 5

1.2. Killer Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.092354, 18.435884

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hot Fuss

FA: Andrew Koch, 2006

21 Sport 5
2 Smile Like You Mean It

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

22 Sport 5
3 Mr Brightside

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

22 Sport 5

1.3. Middle Buttress 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.092395, 18.435808

description

In the middle

approach

On the way down on the right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Life's Too Short

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

23 Sport 3
2 When You Were Young

Clip the last bolt then climb the twin cracks to the right. Pull through then clip the chains out left.

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

21 Sport 7
3 When You Were Young (Left Finish)

Clip the last bolt then rail left 1.5-2m to directly below the chains, then pull thru the overlap.

FA: S. Bradshaw (snr), 2009

24 Sport 7

1.4. Beginner's Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.092442, 18.435697

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Absolute Beginners

FA: Andrew Koch, 2006

15 Sport 3
2 Beginners Luck

FA: Paddy McCann, 2006

14 Sport 3
3 The Love Generation

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

19 Sport 3
4 Woza Moya

FA: Doug Ward, 2006

19 Sport 5

1.5. Underside 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.092460, 18.435619

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hey Jupiter

FA: S. Bradshaw (snr), 2009

34 Sport 7
2 How Peculiar

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

20 Sport 5
3 Bullet in a Bible

FA: Guy Holwill, 2008

23 Sport 4
4 Broken Dreams

Set: Andrew Koch

25 Sport 6
5 American Idiot

FA: Guy Holwill, 2006

27 Sport 5
6 Fly me to the Moon

FA: C. Patience

Set: Paddy McCann

26 Sport
7 The Italian Job

FA: phlip olivier, 2013

27 SportProject 9
8 Tyrant

Chains are in a terrible position to the right under a bush

FA: Doug Ward, 2006

24 Sport 7

1.6. Rightside 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.092494, 18.435517

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Megan

FA: S. Downing, 2007

26 Sport 9
2 Abigail

FA: M vd Westhuizen, 2006

18 Sport 5
3 Femme Fatale

Set: Cormac Tooze & Brian Watts

FA: Cormac Tooze & Brian Watts, 28 Mar 2021

20/21 Sport 25m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
14 Beginners Luck Sport 3 1.4. Beginner's Wall
15 Absolute Beginners Sport 3 1.4. Beginner's Wall
18 Abigail Sport 5 1.6. Rightside
19 Drifting Away Sport 4 1.1. Faithless Sector
The Love Generation Sport 3 1.4. Beginner's Wall
Woza Moya Sport 5 1.4. Beginner's Wall
20 How Peculiar Sport 5 1.5. Underside
20/21 Femme Fatale Sport 25m, 6 1.6. Rightside
21 I Want More (Part 1) Sport 4 1.1. Faithless Sector
Muhammed Ali Sport 3 1.1. Faithless Sector
Hot Fuss Sport 5 1.2. Killer Wall
When You Were Young Sport 7 1.3. Middle Buttress
22 Salva Mea Sport 4 1.1. Faithless Sector
Mr Brightside Sport 5 1.2. Killer Wall
Smile Like You Mean It Sport 5 1.2. Killer Wall
23 Don't Leave Sport 4 1.1. Faithless Sector
Life's Too Short Sport 3 1.3. Middle Buttress
Bullet in a Bible Sport 4 1.5. Underside
24 When You Were Young (Left Finish) Sport 7 1.3. Middle Buttress
Tyrant Sport 7 1.5. Underside
25 I Want More (Part 2) Sport 5 1.1. Faithless Sector
Irreverence Sport 5 1.1. Faithless Sector
Broken Dreams Sport 6 1.5. Underside
26 Fly me to the Moon Sport 1.5. Underside
Megan Sport 9 1.6. Rightside
27 American Idiot Sport 5 1.5. Underside
The Italian Job SportProject 9 1.5. Underside
30 Tarantula Sport 5 1.1. Faithless Sector
34 Hey Jupiter Sport 7 1.5. Underside
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