Wendenstöcke Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

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Table of contents

1. Wendenstöcke 64 routes in Crag

7 8 9 4 6 3 5 2 1

1 Gadmerfluh 2 Mähren 3 Pfaffenhut 4 Excalibur 5 Dom 6 Aureus 7 Reissend Nollen 8 Reissend Nollen Vorbau 9 Wendensattel

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.762241, 8.369430

description

The Wendenstöcke form a 10km long chain in the Gadmertal valley, generally oriented towards SSE, on the west side of the Sustenpass. From Tällistock to Titlis there are various sectors with a total of 130 multi-pitch routes. The routes at Pfaffenhuet, Gross Wendenstock and Reissend Nollen form the heart of the area. This is the epicentre of alpine sport climbing in Switzerland. Although one usually climbs only in the lower part of these mountains, the routes are very popular because of their rock quality, their beauty and difficulty. The climbing is often steep and athletic, the rock often firm, optimally structured and handy.

The season at Wendestöcken extends roughly from July to October. Early in the year, meltwater strips from the up to 3000m high summit regions often disturb and as long as there is still snow on the bands further up, there is a considerable danger of falling rocks. In midsummer, from midday onwards (except on very stable days with low humidity), thermal, deep-base spring clouds often occur, enveloping the walls in the cold, ghostly turning fog, which is unpleasant during climbing. The best conditions are usually found in autumn, but only until the first snow falls.

The protection is worth mentioning: depending on the route it varies from good to rough, but almost everywhere it is tight and requires a courageous lead, there are no plaisir routes.

approach

The approaches now mostly show visible tracks and are not too tricky in good conditions. Nevertheless, they lead over long distances through steep cliffs, which don't allow any mistakes, fatal accidents have already occurred during the ascent. Whoever comes into a thunderstorm at the turns has a problem in several ways: in the upper wall areas enormous masses of water can accumulate, which pour out as huge torrents over the routes and entry areas, and they also carry the stones, which lie around in the upper wall areas so countlessly. And, of course, the way into the valley via the wet cliffs takes on a completely different dimension than it did in the morning, when the weather was friendly during the ascent.

ethic

Talk to locals about the ethic of bolting and retro-bolting routes.

1.1. Gadmerfluh 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.750486, 8.342378

description

Koordinaten: 2 670100/ 1 178230, Höhe 1930 Meter,

approach

Ab Mettlenberg in 1h45min. Man benutzt die taxpflichtige Strasse Richtung Wendenalp und parkiert unterhalb des Mettlenbergs auf 1490m bei einer Strassenabzweigung. Fussweg zur Alp Vorsess, Bergweg zum Spreitbach. Weiter 600m diesen Weg folgen zu kleinen Alphütte unmittelbar vor dem Bündengraben

descent notes

Dito

1.2. Mähren 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.756321, 8.359442

1.3. Pfaffenhut 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.760128, 8.371922

1.4. Excalibur 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.761241, 8.376076

1.5. Dom 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.759648, 8.380083

1.6. Aureus 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.760863, 8.384940

1.7. Reissend Nollen 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.765140, 8.399536

1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.764556, 8.402653

1.9. Wendensattel 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.762697, 8.391226

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
6a			Spasspartout	Sport 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
6b		★★★	Excalibur	Sport 230m, 8, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Wendenvögel	Sport 300m, 11, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Ar schöne grüenä Aare nah“	Trad 7		1.9. Wendensattel
6b+			Milchsuppe	Sport 12		1.1. Gadmerfluh
			Aureus	Sport 300m, 10, 10		1.6. Aureus
6c			Dragon	Sport 280m, 7, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★★★	Sonnenkönig	Sport 500m, 20, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Zonda	Sport 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
6c+			Kooianisquazi	Sport 230m, 8, 10		1.2. Mähren
			El condor pasa	Sport 300m, 11, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Inuit	Sport 450m, 18, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Passion	Sport 300m, 10, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★	Stars away	Sport 280m, 8, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Sternschnuppe	Sport 420m, 19, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Voie du frére	Sport 320m, 9, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Espérit	Sport 160m, 3, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Affennase	Sport 150m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a			Torwächter	Sport 450m, 10, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Patent Ochsner	Sport 420m, 8, 12		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Lancelot	Sport 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Querschläger	Sport 300m, 8, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Trash	Sport 2		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Nachtexpress	Sport 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a/a+			Strada del sole	Sport 300m, 7, 10		1.6. Aureus
7a+			Gory	Sport 300m, 7, 10		1.3. Pfaffenhut
			Troja	Sport 230m, 6, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Caminando	Sport		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Sawiris	Sport 280m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7a+/b			Imago	Sport 250m, 6, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Pain Killer	Sport		1.7. Reissend Nollen
7b			Im Auge des Zyklopen	Sport 550m, 20, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Indian Summer	Sport 300m, 10, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Charia	Sport 300m, 9, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Paco	Sport 350m, 10, 10		1.6. Aureus
			Millenium	Sport		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Zyland	Sport 220m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7b A0			Squaw	Sport 200m, 7, 10		1.2. Mähren
7b+			Transocean	Sport 7		1.3. Pfaffenhut
		★★★	Blaue Lagune	Sport 250m, 9, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Niagara	Sport 250m, 7, 12		1.4. Excalibur
			Andorra	Sport 350m, 11, 10		1.5. Dom
			Hakuna Matata	Sport 8		1.5. Dom
			Legacy	Sport 320m, 9, 10		1.5. Dom
			Das 11. Gebot	Trad 9		1.6. Aureus
			As de coeur	Mixed trad 450m, 12		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Batman	Sport 300m, 6, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Tsunami	Sport		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Rockmantic	Sport 550m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
			Virus	Sport 550m		1.8. Reissend Nollen Vorbau
7b+ A1			Ibicus	Sport 320m, 10		1.5. Dom
7c			Letzter Mohikaner	Sport 230m, 6, 10		1.2. Mähren
			Jednicka Nr. 1	Sport 340m, 10, 10		1.5. Dom
			Cleopatra	Sport 270m, 7, 10		1.7. Reissend Nollen
			Dingo	Sport		1.7. Reissend Nollen
7c A1			Vreneli	Sport 500m, 18, 10		1.2. Mähren
7c+			Elefantenohr	Sport 320m, 10, 10		1.5. Dom
			Portami via	Sport 300m, 8, 12		1.6. Aureus
8a			La lunga attesa	Mixed trad 270m, 8, 7		1.5. Dom
8a+			Coelophysis	Sport 670m, 21, 12		1.2. Mähren
			La svizzera	Sport 400m, 10, 10		1.2. Mähren
8b+			Zahir	Sport 300m, 8, 12		1.5. Dom
8c			Gran Paradiso	Sport 220m, 7, 14		1.5. Dom
			Zahir +	Sport 12		1.5. Dom