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Ascents in Schächental having Beta

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Showing all 50 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Urnerboden
Gasthauswand
WI4 Magadan - with SAC Uto Ice 15m Good
Lukas
Ascending on a column further to the right than the day before, actual guidebook line.

 
WI3- Anfängerstufe - with SAC Uto Ice 15m Good
Lukas
Went further right than yesterday, which was closer to the line drawn in the guidebook.

 
M5 Hoockerburg - with SAC Uto Ice 20m Good
Lukas
Pretty nice. Contrary to the guidebook and the picture there, this was a pure WI climb today. Once, my axe ripped out, but I was able to stabilize on the rock behind my back.

 
WI5- Picolo - with SAC Uto Ice 10m Very Good
Lukas
More of a mixed climb today, having to take care not to destroy the thin ice and involving a bit of dry-tooling. Really strenuous for me, felt hard!

 
WI3- Rampencouloir - with SAC Uto Ice 20m Good
Lukas
Very nice, looks steeper than it is at the end.

 
WI2+ Rampe - with SAC Uto Ice 20m Good
Lukas
Nice and easy. Did not go to the top, as it was just loose snow and mud after the ice ramp, so tagging as tick.

 
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Urnerboden
Gasthauswand
WI4 Magadan - with SAC Uto Ice 15m Good
Lukas
Going up on the left side. Upper part was ice-free and involved some drytooling.

 
WI4+ Beloretsk - with SAC Uto Ice 12m Very Good
Lukas
Nice, but found that to be very tough. Happy to be TR-ing, that first bolt is high! Involved quite some drytooling and stemming on the left, not a pure WI line today.

 
WI3 Norilsk - with SAC Uto Ice 10m Good
Lukas
Going up one column further to the right.

 
WI3- Anfängerstufe - with SAC Uto Ice 15m Good
Lukas
Slight variant a bit to the left of the official line.

 
WI3 Couloir - with SAC Uto Ice 30m Very Good
Lukas
Very enjoyable, comfortable ramp. Quite long! My 40m worked with some stretch and a knot at the end.

 
Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Hinterglatten
7a A0+ ~7a Einbahnstrasse - with Jan Copes, Raffael Fischer Trad 240m Classic
Robert Kaelin
Sanierung abgeschlossen, Details auf gipfelbuch.ch

 
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Chli Glatten
6a Schneewalzer - with Cedric
1 5b Second lead by Cedric
2 5c+ Sport lead by Torsten
3 4a Second lead by Cedric
4 4c Sport lead by Torsten
5 5a Sport lead by Torsten
6 5c Second lead by Cedric
7 6a Sport lead by Torsten
8 5c+ Sport lead by Torsten
9 5b Second lead by Cedric
Sport Good
Torsten
die SL 8 war zml brüchig, in der SL 5 fehlt ein Plättchen am Stand.

 
6a+ Dachtangente - with Martin Sport 220m Very Good
Oli
Oben sind die besten Routen

 
Mon 8th Aug 2022 - Niemerstaffel
6b Hall of Sermon Sport
HeikoK
Nice but one balancy traverse that feels unsecure

 
6a 6a+ Elodia Sport Good
HeikoK
Easy for the grade

 
6b+ Klaussennebel Sport Good
HeikoK
Cool beginning then 5a top out.

 
7a+ 7b Glurier Sport Very Good
HeikoK
Short and beta-specific. Easy for the grade.

 
Thu 4th Aug 2022 - Niemerstaffel
6b Mortiis Sport Good
Lucie
easy

 
6b+ Schöpfungsschrei der Ursubstanz - with Petr R. Sport Classic
Lucie
second try. super nice route, down technical, up a bit overhang

 
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Chli Glatten
6c Zogä am Bogä
1 6b+ 200m
2 6c
3 6a+
4 6c
5 6b
6 6b+
Sport 200m Very Good
Max Kaltenbrunner
Really cool route, we liked every single pitch. Good protection, only in the 2 easier&grassy pitches one could find few placements useful, it's also not easy to find the correct way there. 1* off for that. p1: Long, homogenous and fun, perfect to get warm. p2: Boulder off the ledge, afterwards easier. Head way to the left after the grassy groove. Caution: The anchors in p2 & p3 don't fit to the topo! I guess another one has been bolted there, use the second one way to the left after the first 6c, or make 7 pitches out of it. Other wise the rope drag in the 6a+ gets just too strong! p3: Huge left-traverse with a few really cool moves and differing styles. Attention, rope drag! p4: Few challenging moves off the ledge, but not too hard. The crux comes to the end, where the holds and feet get worse ad worse and you're pumped. p5: Super-exposed roof with jugs. Head let afterwards! p6: Nice & pumpy climbing, the rock doesn't look too solid but everything we touched was ok.

 
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Chli Glatten
6c Le cour de la mer
1 6b 200m
2 6b
3 6a+
4 6c
5 6a
Sport 200m Good
Max Kaltenbrunner
Good route with good protection in solid rock. The best pitches are the 6a+ and 6c in my opinion.

 
Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Urnerboden
Gasthauswand
WI3- Land der Eiskönigin - with Julian Ice 15m
Torsten
gutes Eis

 
WI3 Couloir - with Julian Ice 30m
Torsten
Eis war relativ brüchig

 
WI4 Magadan - with Julian Ice 15m
Torsten
3 Eisschrauben hatte Julian schon gesetzt, dann aber aufgrund zuviel Pump im Steileis nen Rückzug gemacht

 
Thu 12th Aug 2021 - Niemerstaffel
6c Wet-Wet-Wet - with Miriam Sport
Dani KO
Ohne Haut geht in dieser Route nix. Die Griffe bis zum 2. Bolt sind sehr scharf...

 
Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Jegerstöcke
Gabchopf
5c Geburtstagsweg - with Julian
1 5c 40m lead by Torsten
2 5c 45m lead by Julian
3 5c 40m lead by Torsten
Sport 130m Very Good
Torsten
vollkommen verschickte Verschneidungskletterei, bei uns hats währenddessen immer wieder genieselt und sich dichter Nebel mit bestem Sonnenschein abgewechselt.. was ein Abenteuer!

 
Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Chli Glatten
6b Chryz und Quer
1 6a 220m
2 6a
3 6b
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6a
7 6b
8 5c
Sport 220m Average
Jonas
Well protected, we did not neeed any additional gear.

 
Wed 21st Oct 2020 - Chli Glatten
6b Chryz und Quer
1 6a 220m
2 6a
3 6b
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6a
7 6a
8 5c
Sport 220m Classic
mike
Beautiful route in perfect limestone. Very well protected. Didn't feel too hard - grades adequate - but my partner had a few issues in deciphering what to do...

Just keep your eyes open for that useful hold...

 
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Niemerstaffel
6b+ Hilflos - with Anika Sport 15m Very Good
Nicky
Schöne Sequenze in der Mitte

 
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Urnerboden
Klettergarten dr Frigg
6a Osternest - with Anika Sport 8m Good
Nicky
Leichter als Kuckucksnest

 
Sat 15th Aug 2020 - Niemerstaffel
5c Leben mit Heike - with Anika Sport Very Good
Nicky
Viel besser als es von unten aussieht. Oben noch ein kurzes Handriss Highlight.

 
6b+ Klaussennebel - with Anika Sport Very Good
Nicky
Viel viel schwere als Murmel

 
6a+ 6b+ Murmel - with Anika Sport Very Good
Nicky
Sehr schön aber für 6b+ muss man sich schon sehr umständlich auf die Platte zwingen - viel schöner in der Verschneidung

 
Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Chli Glatten
6b Südpfeiler Sport 220m Mega Classic
Peter Roßmanith
Sehr schöne Route .

 
Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Niemerstaffel
6a+ Blutzoll Sport
mike
We were a bit stressed because of impending rain and thunderstorm. This was at that point the only route in our vicinity that looked dry enough to be climbable after a first bit of rain came while my partner was doing Endraum.

Feels like I unnecessarily strained my pulley when I blew the one somewhat harder move.

 
5a+ Rheingold Sport
mike
Tough sloper for the grade. But there may be an easier variant to the right?

 
Sat 13th Jun 2020 - Urnerboden
Klettergarten Höhli-Stei
6b Heureka Sport 7m Very Good
Martin Gebs
Boulderstart

 
Sun 22nd Sep 2019 - Windeggen
4a Timon - with James Allan Sport 25m
Val
First time at the tunnel First outdoor lead climbing route!

 
Mon 26th Aug 2019 - Urnerboden
Klettergarten dr Frigg
6b+ I dr Chrott Sport 8m Very Good
Martin Gebs
Technisch, Gut

 
Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Chli Glatten
6a+ Neuer Altherrenweg - with Dascha
1 5a
2 6a
3 5b
4 5c+
5 6a+
6 5a
Sport Very Good
Alexander Oppe
Super Fels! Die Querung in SL4 und die Rissverschneidung in SL5 sind die Highlights

 
Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Niemerstaffel
6b+ Dino Alpino - with Jenny Sport Very Good
Toby
Cool moves right from the start

 
7b Glurier - with Jenny Sport Very Good
Toby
Nice line. A little sharp at the start then just fun moves to the top

 
7a+ Jodler - with Jenny Sport Good
Toby
Devious

 
Sat 8th Sep 2018 - Ruogig
Hagelstock
5c+ Altwybersummer
1 4c 270m
2 4b
3 3b
4 4b
5 5c+
6 4c
7 4b
8 5a+
Sport 270m Don't Bother
mike
The rock is mostly solid, but there's quite a bit of walking and grassy patches in-between. The climbing-style is rather "old school" with the chimney-like cruxes in P5 and P8, where I actually found the lower graded P8 crux to be a bit more difficult than the two cruxes in P5.

Some pitches need good management of rope-stretch. There's also a crouching passage in P7, and in P6 it felt like one could easily deck from around 10m. This could possibly be mitigated with a sling or a nut, but I didn't bother.

We missed the second rappel anchor, and instead found a solid tunnel through with a fresh sling and maillon, about 10m to the left of the second anchor of the climbing route. This allowed us to get down in three abseils instead of four (using 2x50m ropes).

All in all, for some reason I expected more of this route, but at least the views were nice.

 
Tue 1st Aug 2017 - Niemerstaffel
6c Störfall im Reaktor - with Georges Sport Good
Nicky
6c ???

 
Sun 15th Jan 2012 - Biel
Marchstöckli
6a+ Standart (Standard) Sport 60m Very Good
Nicky
2Sl mit Anika

 
Sun 6th Feb 2011 - Biel
Spilauerstock
6a Westgipfel Südwand (Südwand) Sport 230m Very Good
Nicky
6Sl mit Anika 4c,6a,6a,5c,5b,4b, Zustieg mit Schneeschuhen bei gefühlten 30C

 
Sat 1st Mar 2008 - Biel
Höch Nossen
5b Sie und Er - with Anika Sport 55m Good
Nicky
snowshoe approach

 
5c+ Nachziggler - with Anika Sport 80m Good
Nicky
snowshoe approach

 

Showing all 50 ascents.

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