Nodes in Ruthin Escarpment (Pwllglas Rocks)

Crag features Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.

For Quarry Wall: Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.

Climb over the overhanging base to gain good holds in the middle of the wall and gain the break. Move left to the middle of the buttress. Climb the smooth bulge to a sloping break. Originally a small 1 inch thick plant was used with a sling. Just for confidence. Move up to the next break and clip the bolt in the wall. More sustained moves to reach the top. Best route on the upper section of crag.

Climb easily into the scoop below the overhanging groove. A couple of hard moves to reach good holds to the top. Poorly protected.

Move up into the scoop below runner bean. Place a thread and a small cam nut in a pocket to the right of the bulge. Move down and left and using a one finger pocket and a few sloping edges move left into the centre of the wall above the overhang. Climb directly up the middle of the overhanging bulge to the top.

Originally only 1 bolt was ever placed for safety on a British 6c. All the routes were climbed ground up, no preinspection, no top roping. Only one fall on a first accent was ever taken and that resulted in a ground fall from 20 feet due to a loose hold. The route was completed without the original runner placement. It's sad to see routes originally done in a pure style now bolted and graded as sports climbs.

Originally only 1 bolt was ever placed for safety on a British 6c. All the routes were climbed ground up, no preinspection, no top roping. Only one fall on a first accent was ever taken and that resulted in a ground fall from 20 feet due to a loose hold. The route was completed without the original runner placement. It's sad to see routes originally done in a pure style now bolted and graded as sports climbs.