Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner | 24m | |||||
Rope was getting in the way
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5.10a X | ★ Copper Penny | 27m | |||||
Sick OW to #6 - definitely not X let alone R rated, not sure why it says that here?
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5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner | 24m | |||||
Fuck wideboyz crack gloves, would be better off using banana peels strapped onto the back of your hands with duck tape
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5.12a | ★★ Chump Change | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I must've started too high or this is truly a one move 12a that I bypassed the Crux of? Definitely on the right line according to MP but felt way too easy for 12a
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Swan Slab Gully | 98m | |||||
Post swim arvo lap
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Housekeeping area | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Unnamed 1 | ||||||
Did a bunch of v0s and a 2 that aren't on thecrag so I'm ticking this v1 to make myself feel good
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak Boulders | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ The King | ||||||
All jugs
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Housekeeping area The Housekeeping Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Housekeeping Face | ||||||
Most sandbagged V2 in the valley?
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Upper Yosemite Falls | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Lost Arrow Spire Tip | 76m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic day out in an absurd position with Yosemite falls putting on a show with peak flow of the year after all the snow melt.
Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing. Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish. Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked. Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4. |
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy - with Sascha | 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A great last route of the trip. I'll be back
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Munginella - with Sascha | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun route finishing with a splitter hands crack. The soloists coming down half way through the climb made things fun
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Chapel Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Drive By Shooting — 3 attempts - with Sascha | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Glad to have ticked this. Thanks Blair for the recommendation
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5.10b | ★★★ Heathenistic Pursuit - with Sascha | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Was not prepared for this as the warm up climb. Tried very hard at the bottom
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5.11d | ★★ New Wave - with Sascha | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin crimp line to a technical top. Who knew Yosemite had great sport lines
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite - with Sascha | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great intro route to the valley beside the traffic jam and Sascha dropping my 0.3
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Curry Village Circuit Breaker | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Circuit breaker | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
The least sent boulder of the day. Actually did alright on this one - finger crack antics
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Curry Village The Zorro Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Zorro | ||||||
Not a boulderer
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Wine Boulders Pinball & Hammerhead Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Hammerhead | ||||||
Highballs are scary
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress | 360m, 9 | |||||
Does it count as a clean send if you undergrip on mega jugs on a 5.8 then fall 2m onto a ledge standing and your belayer doesn't even notice?
Sick Yosemite intro - p6 was the scariest thing I've ever led, 2 pitons and one worthwhile cam placement over 30m of traversing while still not totally trusting the granite smears - the handholds were the equivalent of pulling on a stale arnotts lemon crisp at points. Felt like I went through a footwork class over 10 pitches and it finally started to click by the end. Shit's rough in the valley. Linked 1/2, 3/4, 7-8.5 then ran out of rope. |
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face | |||||||
5.9 |
★ The Direct Route
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
| 360m | ★ Good | ||||
Lots of dirt and choss lower down leads to 3 or 4 beautiful pitches of climbing. Then the rock quality turns to shit as you approach the summit. Skip the last 2 pitches and take the easy escape instead.
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ The Nutcracker Suite
1
2
3
4
5
| 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ran out of gear on 4th pitch. So built an anchor and did 5th as one mega runnout
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy
1
2
3
4
5
| 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Snow covering the first 3m. Started on top of the snow bank
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Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ The Nutcracker Suite P2
2
| 180m | |||||
First pitch corner was wet so we used the link up from Easy Wind, 3rd pitch was soaked, we rapped from there.
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.11b ~5.8 | ★★ Aid Route | 55m, 3 | |||||
Aid the first 3 bolts on wet slab to the crack.
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Mon 25th Dec 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Base Area | |||||||
5.4 | ★★ The Footstool, Right - with Casey Nguyen | 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A lot of steep walking for an ok route, nice view from the top chill day, worth it if doing other routes in the area, can also watch the pros projecting Dawn Wall from the ledge
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Sun 24th Dec 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Commitment
- with
Casey Nguyen
1
36.58
2
42.67
3
24.38
| 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mega route, sketchy start, committing laybacks on granite slabs (no feet) then beginning 3rd route with a roof traverse crux again no feet, took me a few minutes to commit to the final moves although on good pro was a bit comforting, finished up the right side (not the easier left) and was worth the few moves to the topout.
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak Boulders | |||||||
V7 ~V6 | ★★★ The King - with Victoria | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Fell off the bottom once. Bailed off the top once because it’s real scary up there. Then did it.
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mockery - with conrado | 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty fun pitch with amazing views!
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Mon 13th Nov 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ El Corazón - with Sam | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Just another route to add to the list of things that might make you a believer. I had the pleasure of jugging/climbing/shenaniganing behind Sam on his glorious 22 hour all free ascent of El Corazon (the El Coraziad).
Brittany, Victoria, and I jugged to Mammoth the night before to try and maximise our sleep then the next morning Adrian and Sam simuled to Mammoth and collected their pre-rigged belayers (Brittany and I (Victoria just came to hang out and talk shit bc she’s a legend)) and Sam and I started romping while Adrian and Brittany chilled on the ledge to give us some time to create a gap so Adrian could start his attempt without us being in the way. Pretty classic scenes on the big stone if you ask me. Highlights included: - Listening to multiple Lorde albums in full - Jugging the Nietzsche chimney and being rewarded with a lie down on Babsi’s portaledge - Taking a whole bunch of fucked up pendulums cleaning Sam’s gear to save time (“should i lower out or just take the fall?” “nah you’ll be fine there’s nothing to hit just take the whip”) - Sam firing every pitch like an absolute machine with only one fall on the Beak Flake - Jugging with two back packs - Down aiding the end of the roof pitch because Sam forgot to back clean his gear and i couldn’t lower out and also did not want to take the 15mpendulum whipper into the Tower - Having a chorus of 10 or so people from different routes cheer Sam on as he sent the roof traverse as the sun finished setting - Arriving at the tower and being handed a cup of tea that had been made by Miska and her partner who sent Golden Gate - Honestly just the whole thing. Supporting your friends to achieve their dreams is the fucking coolest thing ever. I won’t forget this day for a long while. Thanks Sam. |
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Sunnyside Bench | |||||||
5.4 | ★ Regular Route | 120m | |||||
Amazing day I had the route and the waterfall to myself
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Falls Trail Boulders | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Bachar Cracker - with camp four crew | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Fixed last year’s dab.
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Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Holey Gully | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting line. Starts as a full on chimney, then climb on knobs on the side walls, then a normal crack near the top. Gear is consistently good.
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5.8 | ★★ Mockery | 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Different than anything else I’ve done in Yosemite. Amazing line but I don’t think the plates at the top are going to be there forever. Note there are now mussy hooks at the anchor (Oct/23).
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Grant's Crack | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stellar finger locks, super polished feet.
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Thu 26th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Unnamed Face Variation | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard but fun
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13a |
★★★ Freerider
- with
Jesse
1
5.10c
lead by
Jesse
2
5.11b
lead by
Jesse
3
5.10c
lead by
Jesse
4
5.11
lead by
Jesse
10
5.11c
lead by
Jesse
11
5.1
lead by
Jesse
12
5.11d
lead by
Jesse
15
5.10d
lead by
Jesse
16
5.11d
lead by
Jesse
21
5.11c
lead by
Jesse
23
5.11a
lead by
Jesse
24
5.10d
lead by
Jesse
26
5.12b
lead by
Jesse
29
5.11d
lead by
Jesse
31
5.10d
lead by
Jesse
| 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Ground up over seven days and then we camped on top and hiked down on the eighth day. We pre-hauled to Hollow Flake Ledge, took two rest days, and then went up the route. Some nice Germans fixed the lines off Heart to above the Hollow Flake for us so we didn’t climb those pitches on our pre-hauling day and preserved our ground up as much as we could. We also didn’t do the Free Blast before our ground up attempt which was cool and definitely added to the experience. I top roped the Monster because I got tired of whipping from the move into it all the way back into the Ear in the dark at 5am and then gave the reigns to Jesse who fired it and then I followed. I top roped the Enduros because we didn’t do them first go and I also took the stance at the no hands ledge on the move off heart. These are my asterisks, do with them what you will.
I will probably write something more when my brain and body decide to work again. Best thing i’ve ever done! |
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Big Columbia Boulder | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Midnight Lightning | 8m | |||||
Climbing to the Mantle everytime now (6) falls there. So close to touching the hold . Was keen to send it but wasn't padded up the last two days 😕
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak | |||||||
5.6 III | ★★★ Southeast Buttress | 220m | |||||
Some hiking
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike - with Carleigh Burns | 550m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The ol Snake Hike. Big day out
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center | |||||||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route | 430m | ★ Good | ||||
We got off route!!!
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Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Olmstead Area Olmstead Canyon | |||||||
5.14a ~5.13d | ★★★ Broken Arrow | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Much easier than Peace for me.
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.
After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road |
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Polly Dome Stately Pleasure Dome South Face | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ West Country
- with
Miyuki
1
2
3
4
| 120m, 3 | |||||
scrambled then swung, led the runout slab. looked at the topo but didn't really understand how crucial the "0.3' cam" placement was nor how small 0.3in actually is, and also didn't grab wires off partner. wasn't confident about the slick 5.7 slab crux in the sun 8m above my last bolt nor the downclimb to it. eventually took slightly longer but marginally-higher-confidence path to placement out left. rest of the climb was chill.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Wine Boulders Cocaine Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Cocaine Corner | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Spooky
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Big Columbia Boulder | |||||||
V5 Hard | ★★ End of the Day Problem | ★★ Very Good | |||||
The spicy mantle got to me. Struggled to commit for ages!
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center - with Andrew Banks | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wanted to get on this since I was last in the Valley in 2018 and it delivered. What a great pitch of climbing.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy - with Andrew Banks | 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such a fun route! Got to lead every pitch except the last which Andy did. Between wet rock and crowds it took us 4 attempts to get on this thing however I am glad we persisted as it's worth it.
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum North Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Alien - with Jesse | 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Unbelievable route. I fell off the Alien Roof pitch which is one of the coolest cracks I’ve climbed after a decent onsight effort that got me on to the face after the roof. I also had to take and lower on the offwidth pitch because I left my #5 behind like an idiot and then got too scared to run out the whole top half of the pitch. Otherwise did everything else. What an awesome collection of steep splitters.
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Book of Job - with Owen | ||||||
the most in over my head i've been. had (mostly) mentally prepared for the approach, adventurous/old-school style, steepness, offwidth, but not the squeeze chimneys, nor the exposed bottomless #5/#6 crux. led about the first half of p3; was a terrified gumby; Owen was a total champ.
back at cars 2:45am. brought and placed both #5s; a #6 may have been useful if not completely necessary, but neither of us have one anymore for the exact same reason :p |
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Nutcracker Right Start - with Carleigh Burns | 61m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Definitely do this start into Nutcracker. Great day
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress | |||||||
5.10c |
★★★ East Buttress
1
5.6
120ft
2
5.8
40ft
3
5.8
100ft
4
5.7
100ft
5
5.10c
100ft
6
5.8
100ft
7
5.7
120ft
8
5.8
130ft
9
5.7
100ft
10
5.8
140ft
11
5.7
120ft
| 360m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good Route!
Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains... We linked 3-4 easy And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch I would suggest not linking 1 with 2 The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking We aided the bolted pitch Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap that do the walk off.. |
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Generator Station | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Generator Crack - with Brittany and the Broke Boys | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Well it’s certainly something.
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker - with Andrew Banks | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last route of the trip and got suitably smashed by the 6" offwidth at the top. Just couldn't keep it together. Fantastic climb and it feels like a bigger meaner brother to Moby Dick.
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan West Face | |||||||
5.7 C2 VI | ★★★ Lurking Fear - with Andrew Banks | 610m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bailed at the top of pitch 6. We had hiked in 2 loads and fixed the first pitch in the evening. The next day we jugged and I went to haul however sandbagged myself with the anchor set up and it took almost 2 hours to haul that first pitch! Lessons were learned. We managed to get to the top of the 4th pitch by the end of the first day through a mixture of aid and free climbing, all of which was spectacular. We set up the ledge. I had every intention of leading and fixing pitch 5 at night however after a brew and some food all motivation was lost haha. Pitches 5 & 6 went relatively quickly the next morning though we were still on the slow end of the scale. When I got to the anchor Andy said his back was quite sore. We had 3 options - push on and top out probably Saturday night; set up camp and climb as many pitches as we can before night then descend in the morning, or go down. When Andy mentioned the pain was such that he really had to concentrate not to make a mistake with the rope systems we decided to go down which definitely turned out to be the right call given how he felt the next day. When we descended we met a keen young Brit who was planning on soloing the route in a day. We brewed him a cup of tea and chatted while he waited for a party to descend who were climbing and fixing to pitch 3. We ran into him again the next day as he was hiking back to camp 4 and he had indeed soloed the route in under 18 hours, doing it in 7 monster pitches! And onsight to boot! An absolutely amazing effort. The climbing was definitely not the crux and we both learnt a lot in terms of systems and efficient hauling. Would love to come back and try and do this a bit lighter and quicker. Beta if you want to fix the evening before. Climb the first 3 pitches and haul straight to 3 via the rap route. That first pitch is the worse hauling on the route.
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum North Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Regular North Face Route - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 280m | |||||
"this route will never be freed, by us, today". Another day yes. Tope of the list for next trip, off to Indian creek then.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower FiFi Buttress, West Face | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Romulan Warbird - with Jesse | ★★★ Classic | |||||
First proper day in the Valley and we get sandbagged on to this by Adrian. First pitch was a rough warm up and I got pretty scared. I took an exciting fall on to an abysmal flared cam that some how held and that set the tone for the pitch. Pretty amazing though. The rest of the climbing was also hard and rad and scary. We bailed from the base of the crux as Adrian and Vic were back on the ground and we were ready to come down. Worthy.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy - with Kelsie Wamer | 170m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fair for the grade in Yosemite, but in squamish this could easily be a 10b/c!
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike | 550m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The first two 5.4 pitches are seriously runout, however the last 5.4 has good gear if you step off to the right of the dike.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face | |||||||
5.8 C1 V Hard |
★★★ South Face
1
2
3
4
5
6
Ripped a blue totem at the end of the roof traverse. Decked on the slab below then ripped my previous piece out as well.
7
8
9
10
11
| 370m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fantastic route, made it to the top of P6 before pack of water and a 25' whip made us decided to retreat.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center | |||||||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route | 430m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Superb friction! The rap stations were almost as exciting as the route itself!
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Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite - with Jesse | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun romp with Jesse to shake off the driving tiredness. Very very smoky in the Valley which meant there was no one on this. A very different experience compared to bailing off it last year due to thousand other people faffing all over it.
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Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum North Face | |||||||
5.11 |
★★★ The Regular North Face Route P1-P3
- with
William Wardlaw-Kelly
1
2
3
| 280m | |||||
This is what happens when you never rest. We are exhausted. After pitch three we decided we would just bail off the walk off ledge and do the whole thing again tomorrow maybe? Or the day after. Anyway, Yosemite you are sick but I'm getting tired
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Bishop's Terrace | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Linked both pitches. Trying to offwidth the layback was not the smartest move even tho it worked, took forever lol. Something to work on. Nice cracks on the 2nd pitch .
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lena's Lieback - with Neil | 58m | |||||
Must remind myself that 5.9 yosemite layback is not a cruisy warmup climb. Fun climb but was sweating by the top.
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5.9 | ★ Unnamed crack (5.9) - with Neil | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Tough move off the ground, but good finger lock
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress - with cameron | 360m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The flake after the bolt ladder and pitch ten were may favorite bits but nearly every pitch was fantastic.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower FiFi Buttress, West Face | |||||||
5.11a Hard | ★★ Center Of The Universe | 300m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Learning the hard way how to crack climb! Ooof
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress - with Neil | 360m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good!! P1/2 & 3/4 link nicely. Stoked to onsight the 10c slab and be rewarded with fun roof moves and beautiful flake to the anchor. Rapped down. Great day out.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pee Pee Pillar - with Andrew Banks | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Classic fun
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finger section early on was crux for me. Had a fall then was clean to top. Bit awkard getting into offwidth but then it's ok. Has shade early morning.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower FiFi Buttress, West Face | |||||||
5.11a |
★★ Center Of The Universe
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 300m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wasn't our primary objective but had a late start so got 'forced' onto this classic. Did the first eight pitches after that it seemed a little rambly. 4 very good pitches, a few very dirty pitches. A very good day out in the shade. The third 11a pitch was the money
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center | |||||||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route | 430m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Started in the dark to beat the heat, but it took us 10 hours to climb&rap anyway. Got a tiiiny bit hot on the raps Goofy lead first 3 pitches, then we switched leads.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Bishop's Terrace - with Neil | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Definitely worth linking both pitches.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy
- with
Neil
1
lead by
Peter Melouney
2
lead by
Neil
3
lead by
Peter Melouney
4
lead by
Neil
5
lead by
Peter Melouney
| 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a climb! Yosemite keeps on delivering. Every pitch is fantastic. P2 fingers was 👌 P3 roof was amazing and P4 double crack 🤤 Shade from mid morning. Another must do.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center | |||||||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 430m | |||||
Our rest day didn't feel like a rest day, baking like lizards on hot slabs. Had to do it mostly in approach shoes cause the rock was so hot and out feet were cooking in our climbing shoes.
215up 145down.
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Rock | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Chouinard-Herbert - with Fraser | 430m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a great time on the route, thought pitch 11 was phenomenal! And hard for 11a.
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5.11c | ★★ Chouinard-Herbert - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 430m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took once on the fifth pitch cause I was spiced at the prospect of not being able to place gear through the crux- guess what- you can.
An incredible day out with will
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak | |||||||
5.6 III | Ecopoint ★★★ Southeast Buttress - with Míša | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Happy to have had the route to ourselves except one soloist. Everything I expected from Tuolumne - great protection, stunning views high in the alpine with a proper sense of adventure. Got a little bit confused at the top - probably better to stay right of the summit block? Start early and bring a headlamp (: One of the best days I’ve had in the mountains.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 Hard |
★★★ The Nutcracker Suite
- with
Neil
1
lead by
Peter Melouney
2
lead by
Neil
3
lead by
Peter Melouney
4
lead by
Neil
5
lead by
Peter Melouney
| 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great half day of climbing. P1 layback felt on and P5 mantle felt bit committing but fun.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Reed's Pinnacle Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Stone Groove - with Andrew Banks | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had to take on the first go. Decided to leave the gear in and see how I went on the pink-point 2nd go around and it felt much easier. Perhaps I should have pulled the gear and went for a proper red point burn.
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5.9 ~5.10a | ★★★ Reed's Direct - with Andrew Banks | 73m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a great line. Pretty stout for 5.9 and gets 10a in the guidebook. Some of the jams were a bit funky however the climbed was engaging the entire time. Loved it
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Polly Dome Stately Pleasure Dome South Face | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ West Country
1
2
3
4
| 120m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first route in Tuolumne, 2nd pitch looked polished but did not feel slippery - awkward to place gear tho. 5th pitch is a low angle slab walk to the summit. Fun route with nice views of the lake.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower West Face | |||||||
5.7 A3 V | ★★★ West Face | 300m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two days on wall.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Sunnyside Bench | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Jamcrack Route - with Neil | 53m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quality climbing. Beautiful jams on P1 and sweet fingers on P2. A must do.
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5.10d | ★★ Lazy Bum - with Neil | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cruxy layback up top. Just to jambcrack anchors.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Commitment - with Neil | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good climbing
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great day out, after attempting the day before and seeing multiple parties including a party of four we postponed till the next day and had the cliff to ourselves. Simuled a few a chunks. Fantastic. Fixed line are up so the descent was easy peasy
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Waverly Wafer - with Fraser | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One super battle, so stocked. One of my proudest onsights
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Five and Dime - with Fraser | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Found this one very tricky in the dry. Super impressed to see Fraser flash it in the pouring rain.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome South Flank | |||||||
5.10b R | ★★ March of Dimes - with Kelsie Wamer | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Fantastic slab climbing on some sized edges!
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Left | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ West Crack - with Kelsie Wamer | 210m | Average | ||||
Howling wind sure makes this climb feel extreme. We chose to back off after the first pitch rather then continue.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.7 Hard | ★★ After Six - with Kelsie Wamer | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Slippery first pitch, but still within the Yosemite 5.7 grade. Lots of good climbing on this route and a Yosemite classic for sure!
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Sunnyside Bench | |||||||
5.4 Easy | ★ Regular Route - with Kelsie Wamer | 120m | Don't Bother | ||||
Not much actual climbing on this route. More of a scramble.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face | |||||||
5.8 C1 V | ★★★ South Face - with Andrew Banks | 370m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 1 we climbed to pitch 5 and fixed back to dinner ledge. Stoked to get the redpoint on pitch 2 this time. Day 2 we climbed to pitch 9 however bailed due to running out of daylight before the last pitch. Great adventure.
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5.8 C1 V | ★★★ South Face - with Andrew Banks | 370m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did the first 3 pitches and then had to bail from Dinner Ledge as there was already 11 people staying that night. Freed all 3 pitches with one sit on the rope on pitch 2.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Aid Route - with Neil | 55m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first climb in Yosemite. Lead P2 and experienced polished pin scars. Felt quite sustained but likely due to lack of technique. Was hoping to try send this on last day in the valley but a group was practicing portaledge setup and hauling on it
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area | |||||||
5.10c |
★★ The Super Slacker Highway
- with
Cole
1
5.10b
2
5.9
3
5.10a
4
5.10a
5
5.10a
6
5.10b
7
5.10c
8
5.9
| 180m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
mega fun adventure, worth the crowds. tests your ability to climb everything: splitters, boulder sequences, steep jug haul, chimney (p5, p8), committing to balancy mantle above a first bolt/ledge (p4). pitch breakdown was arbitrary but worked out well: I somehow got the bouldery pitches (p3, p7) and not the reachy ones (p1, p6)
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Bishop's Terrace - with Andrew Banks | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a superb climb! Such fun!
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Commissioner Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Commissioner Buttress - with Andrew Banks | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Burly and adventurous! Definitely got more than I bargained for on pitch 2!
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Cookie Monster | 25m, 7 | |||||
first half was type 1 fun! had a few goes at burly/tensiony move with diminishing returns
|