Routes as trad in Wollomombi Falls

Only experienced bushwalkers or rock climbers should attempt this trip. Helmets recommended. The party will need some large Hexes or Friends, and approx. 10 long slings with carabineers to sling bushes, the only protection after the start crack.

Start: The junction of the two rivers. Move up the ridge through bushes and rotten hand holds till you are confronted with a steep wall, split by a chimney. The chimney has been done but it is easier to move about 40m left till you come to a crack in a corner. This corner is the only place where you need Hexes or Cams.

Climb the groove to the crest of the ridge. Continue up and along the ridge using slings and carabineers as running belays. A step in the ridge (a bridge) is the first major obstacle. Running belays are difficult to find here so don’t fall off. Further along the ridge there are two large rock towers ('The Tooth of Death'). Negotiate these on the right-hand side, or better go up and rap off.

Eventually you will come to a large rainforest saddle, full of vines and creepers. The best route out of the saddle is via the extreme left-hand side. The first thirty metres is loose and dangerous- take care. Swing up through bushes and loose handholds, gradually moving across to the right. At this point the drop-off into the Chandler (on the right) is frightening. A few short walls, a little more scrambling and you will be back on the gorge rim. Head up onto the walking track and back to the car.

Right up the main falls.Only climbable when the falls are completely dry. This generally only during extended drought. Start: Technically about 17 but some sparse protection on the crux pitch(needs RP’s). Take a full rack. Scramble up onto the large terrace directly under the waterfall. Twin cracks in a corner lead up onto the large pillar.

1. 25m. Up the twin crack corner on your right, to a large ledge with a large block.

2. 40m. From the right-hand side of the ledge climb up the channel using cracks on either side, then veer left up to a good ledge.

3. 25m. (crux) Up the steep open corner to a small (half metre) roof. From here step delicately back down then to the left, then easily up to low angled crack corner and belay.(#6 Hex in place)

4. 50m. Continue straight up the crack/corner, carefully through two loose sections, then excellent rock to sentry box.

5. 10m. From the belay step left then easily to top of main falls. (A long scramble, following the water course leads up to a large pool. From the pool move left and up through scrub to the gorge top.)

Again, this route can only be climbed when the falls are completely dry which is once in a blue moon. The second climb to be completed on the Wollomombi Falls face. Can only be done in times of drought.

Note: The line on the topo is based on a 20 year old memory and could be quite wrong. Whoever climbs it next should update the topo.

Start: The first roped pitch starts left beside the twin cracks of After The Rain.

1. 40m. Scramble (solo ) up to the ledge to the start of A.T.R.

2. 40m.Up the crack left of the twin crack corner, to where the line steepens and splits. Take the left crack for 3m. then step left to a good belay ledge.

3. 40m. Continue up crack to a large diagonal ledge and belay next to small detached block.

4. 30m. Traverse left 3m. over to another crack line and continue up this to where very poor rock forces you to traverse right(about level with the big roof on your left) 10m. to join A.T.R. Up 4m. to belay at a stance where the crack branches.

5. 45m. Take the left-hand crack (A.T.R. is the right-hand crack) to belay at the top of the waterfall face. Scramble out left and along gorge rim to get back to the carpark

Start: An appropriately named climb opposite the falls. A death route that has probably never had a second ascent. Want to make a name for yourself ? Start in the overhung corner/crack that goes up the slab.

1. 23m. Up the crack and belay above and to the right of a small overhang.

2. 36m. Move up again and continue past the ledge to the third tree (?) and belay.

3. 43m. Up the crack 2m. to the left. Up over overhang, and continue for 16m. in the corner (crux). Belay in corner on rotten rock.

4. 30m. Move up the face for 7m. on loose rock and then traverse right on to the buttress, continue up.

5. 30m. Continue up. Belay on the tree on the other side of the ridge.

6. Continue up the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge.

Start: There are slabs opposite the Wollomombi Falls. There is a chimney left around from the slabs. 16m. Start in the chimney, straight up for 13m., then traverse left for 3m. Walk round to the bottom.