Mostrando los 21 ascensiones.
Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Jue 3.º Dic 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shanghai - con Suzan Hobbs | 30m | Medio | |||
Same unprotected bouldery start as Shalimar. Take a big cam for the pocket. Rock's probably not great.
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Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
18 18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A long runout to the bolt, serious.
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17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Start is hard and balancy, then it's runout but easy, then reasonably protected the rest of the way
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Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Scorpion | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
The climbing is good, not as offwidthy as it appears, but the position is really great. Worrying block/s at the start
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20 | ★★ Goodbye To All That - con kieran lawton | 35m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bouldery start, then it's a bit uninspiring crossing Scorpion, but the top bit is excellent
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20 | ★★★ Quo Vadis | 33m, 1 | Medio | |||
I don't get why people rave about this. The climbing is poor. The position is great but the second pitch of Kama Sutra is way better
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11 | ★★★ Blockbuster - con Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, but does have a large worrying block
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Mié 11.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
25 | ★ Imagination LHF | 10m | ★ Buena | |||
I think Chrispy led this by accident - it's a very bold lead, not sure if the gear would keep you off the ground. Impressive!
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22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Gear on the top corner all feels a little iffy. Tiny cams help. Friends said they saw Peter Croft solo up and down this, and that it actually looked easier coming down.
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17 | ★ Scorpion Direct Start | 14m | Medio | |||
Just odd. Easy some days and hard others
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12 15 | Abdul - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Decent access to blockbuster
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Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Denim Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Denim - con Brendan Emmerson | 45m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.
I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.??? |
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Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shalimar | 31m | Medio | |||
Unprotected bouldery start which is the crux, then wanders L and R with average gear and average rock - nice position though.
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23 | Nostalgia | 20m, 1 | Ni te molestes | |||
Rusty bolt, fragile rock, dodgy gear, don't bother.
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24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Bulger | 60m | ★ Buena | |||
You could be forgiven for thinking this was 19!
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23 22 R | ★★ Unrequited | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
I found this quite hard and a bit scary. Wondered if hexes would help in the podded crack - these days link cams might do the trick. Backed off it one day and then lead it next time.
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24 23 | ★★★ Despatched - con Paul Hoskins | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
24 If you ask me! I kicked out the RP above the roof and lost it - slumped onto a #1 RP. Went back and did it later. One of the best 24's at the mount. Don't bother with the second pitch, it's rubbish.
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20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station - con Gareth Llewellin | 22m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.
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Dom 18.º Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Denim Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ L7s | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I really liked this -- big holds, varied, accessible grade. Good warmup for the others
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Mostrando los 21 ascensiones.