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Ascensiones en The Pharos and Surrounds como varios tipos de ascensiones registradas por Douglas Hockly

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Mostrando 1 - 100 de 118 ascensiones.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Calidad
Vie 11.º Nov 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
22 Family Food - con becca saurus Clásica 20m Buena
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

 
Dom 13.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
15 Is It About A Bicycle? - con Wendy Eden Clásica 12m Buena
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.

 
6 Jack-a-Dandy - con Wendy Eden Clásica 12m Medio
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner

 
Jue 3.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
20 Eye Spy Clásica 30m Buena
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.

 
Dom 17.º En 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
18 19 No Turning Back Clásica 20m Buena
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.

 
22 Totally Foxed! Clásica 20m Buena
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.

 
19 Unemploid - con Kate Dooley Clásica 15m Ni te molestes
Just one move then suss rock and gear.

 
Jue 3.º Dic 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area
21 Parsley Clásica 12m Muy buena
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.

 
21 Sage - con Wendy Eden Clásica 12m Buena
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.

 
18 Rosemary - con Wendy Eden Clásica 10m Buena
Good fun, plenty of gear.

 
Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
27 Genug - con Gordon Poultney Clásica mixta 15m, 2 Buena
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling

 
26 Yesterday Clásica 27m Megaclásica
I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.

 
23 Lunatic Clásica mixta 25m, 3 Clásico
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.

 
18 Psychotic - con Juergen Bollinger Clásica 20m Medio
Wouldn't bother doing it again. Doesn't come together that well.

 
19 Moo Hawaii Clásica 25m Buena
20 Blue Hawaii Clásica 35m Buena
Dodgy rock at the start detracts.

 
22 21 Yesterday's Rooster Clásica mixta 22m, 2 Buena
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22

 
12 Sweet Bugger All Clásica 30m Ni te molestes
I thought this was awful!

 
20 The Last Resort Clásica 30m Medio
Loose

 
15 Future Past - con Ben Weissner Clásica 31m Buena
Actually good! Some loose blocks though.

 
23 Haphazard - con estherenita Clásica 15m Muy buena
Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.

 
23 Not Just a Pretty Face Clásica 35m Buena
23 Fever Pitch Clásica mixta 30m, 2 Muy buena
22 Black Spasm - con Paul Deacon Clásica 20m Buena
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.

 
Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
24 Pattern Juggler Direct Start Clásica 15m Buena
25 More Moves Clásica 10m Medio
Looks good but doesn't really come together

 
23 Milk Blood Variant Finish Clásica 10m Buena
I find this easier than the original!

 
23 Milk Blood - con Gordon Poultney Clásica 10m Muy buena
Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.

 
23 Pattern Juggler Clásica 15m Buena
Good climbing - yet another worthwhile 23 in Yesterday Gully

 
18 Tomorrow Clásica 10m Buena
Twicky, and be careful of the start

 
18 Undertow Clásica 15m Buena
Good, and probably easier than Tomorrow!

 
20 The Same Issues Clásica 10m Buena
19 Changin' Times Clásica 10m Ni te molestes
Crap gear and dodgy rock

 
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
20 Hypnosis Clásica 15m Medio
22 In Lemon Butter Clásica 15m Muy buena
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.

 
23 Snow Blind Clásica mixta 15m, 1 Muy buena
Very good but slick

 
18 Four Sticks Clásica 20m Buena
22 Ephemeral Direct Finish Clásica 22m Muy buena
22 Ephemeral Clásica 20m Buena
24 Les Ordures Blanches - con Wendy Eden Clásica 20m Buena
22 White Heat - con Kate Dooley Clásica 20m Muy buena
21 21 R More of the Same Clásica 25m Buena
I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.

 
18 Turquoise Clásica 25m Muy buena
A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.

 
19 19 R Green Shirt Clásica 25m Buena
Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.

 
23 23 R Cat People - con Gordon Poultney Clásica 25m Medio
Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.

 
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress
15 Pibroch Clásica 20m Muy buena
Great! Always fairly tough.

 
20 18 Whacky-Did Clásica 20m Buena
21 Ethereal Clásica 20m Clásico
I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.

 
21 Running on Empty Clásica 20m Buena
I find this a little awkward.

 
24 Family Feud Clásica mixta 20m, 1 Buena
18 Today - con Kate Finnerty Clásica 15m Buena
Can be quite hard if you don't get it right! I've done a direct finish up the little wall above by accident with worthless gear and a scary mantle. Climbing's ok if you really want to risk your ankles.

 
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
12 Hendor Clásica 36m Medio
Wouldn't do it again. Not sure how it gets a star. Gwen is better.

 
13 Long Hair And Great Coats Clásica 35m Medio
Not that great - the top 5m are good!

 
18 19 Cheops Clásica 20m Muy buena
Very nice - 18?

 
11 Gwen Clásica 20m Muy buena
Really nice!

 
17 The Only Way To Fly Clásica 15m Medio
Watch the rock

 
20 19 Fly By Night Clásica 20m Buena
Best started at ground level on the L wall for the full pump. Not the greatest gear or rock.

 
19 19 R Void - con Clive Curson Clásica 15m Buena
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
17 Spellbinder Clásica 27m Clásico
Looks like you're in for heavy duty offwidthing, in fact there's some awesome face holds in just the right places. Great climbing.

 
22 Drivetime Clásica mixta 8m, 2 Buena
20 Traffic Clásica 7m Buena
18 Act in Haste Clásica 12m Buena
16 15 Angel Black Clásica 12m Buena
More like 16?

 
22 20 R Angel Grinder - con Kieran Lawton Clásica 12m Buena
Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.

 
19 A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully - con Kieran Lawton Clásica 12m Buena
Amazing! Looks like 13 and rubbish, is in fact full on for 19, very odd, not that well protected. You won't forget this!

 
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall
18 The Last New Route at Arapiles - con Edwin Irvine Clásica 35m Medio
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
8 Barefoot in the Park - con Wendy Eden Clásica 15m Buena
Nice. Chains above Flights of Fancy

 
Vie 13.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall
17 Jackass Crack - con Edwin Irvine Clásica 35m Buena
18 Nautilus - con Edwin Irvine Clásica 35m Buena
Jue 12.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
19 Stairway to Hell Clásica 20m Buena
Jue 12.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
21 Mental Debris - con Gareth Llewellin, Shaggy
1 21 escalada de primero por me
2
3
Clásica mixta 40m, 1 Medio
Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!

 
20 20 R Dazed and Confused Clásica 20m Buena
Really quite scary. The gear's not great and the rock is worse. If in doubt, go sideways!

 
Jue 12.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
23 Shivers - con estherenita Clásica 55m Muy buena
Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.

 
20 Kingdom Come Clásica 45m Buena
22 The Second Coming Clásica 57m Ni te molestes
The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.

 
Jue 12.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
8 Spiral Staircase - con Tim Rogers Clásica 100m Clásico
Fabulous.

 
10 The Shroud Clásica 120m Buena
OK but wandery

 
11 12 Hurricane Lamp Cracks - con Wendy Eden Clásica 120m Medio
OK but wandery

 
18 17 Oceanoid Clásica 75m Muy buena
Too loose for three stars!

 
18 Transatlantic Crossing - con Wendy Eden Clásica 40m Ni te molestes
Loose and not fun!

 
Jue 12.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
25 Spasm in a Chasm - con Gordon Poultney Clásica mixta 25m, 3 Clásico
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.

 
18 Virginia Clásica 25m Muy buena
Awesome!

 
16 Coming on Chris Clásica 25m Buena
I always find the greasiness and dodgy gear and rock disconcerting at the start of this. None of it is that bad but...

 
24 Nose Job Clásica 30m Muy buena
The initial corner would be daunting to lead. The top bit is great.

 
28 India - con Kate Dooley Clásica 25m Muy buena
TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.

 
Jue 12.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
17 Garden Gnome Clásica 20m Muy buena
Very nice fun.

 
18 Commuted (Strange Fruit) Clásica 45m Medio
Tried to do this.. what I did seemed more like 15

 
18 Death Row Clásica 45m Muy buena
Very odd getting out of the cell, but interesting after that too. Take some large cams for the start

 
13 Social Comment Clásica 37m Buena
Very hard for 13!

 
26 Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - con Kieran Lawton Clásica mixta 30m, 4 Muy buena
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.

 
15 Rush Hour - con Natasha Clásica 15m Buena
Mar 10.º Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
19 Sheckle - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden Clásica 18m Medio
Not the greatest rock/gear/climbing but worth doing once.

 
22 Clap for Kiwis - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden Clásica mixta 18m, 1 Muy buena
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.

 
15 18 Jeckle Clásica 18m Medio
Bit of a shock even if you're expecting 15. I could easily believe 18 for the start. Lookout.

 
13 13 R Rush of Blood Clásica 18m Buena
Yep not much gear up top

 
15 Mr Hyde Clásica 15m Muy buena
Very interesting

 
17 Crack Attack Clásica 15m Muy buena
Harder than it looks!

 
21 21 R Wogs at the Piles Clásica 15m Buena
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.

 
18 17 The Creesed Palm - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden Clásica 14m Buena
Adam did a more direct start traversing below the corner and up. Good climbing apart from a few loose blocks.

 
17 Double Decker - con Wendy Eden, adam demmert Clásica 13m Medio
OK face climbing, a tad loose feeling.

 

Mostrando 1 - 100 de 118 ascensiones.

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