Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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Fr 11. Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - mit becca saurus | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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So 13. Mär 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Is It About A Bicycle? - mit Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 | Jack-a-Dandy - mit Wendy Eden | 12m | Durchschnitt | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Do 3. Mär 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Eye Spy | 30m | ★ Gut | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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So 17. Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ No Turning Back | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 | Unemploid - mit Kate Dooley | 15m | Vergiss es | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Do 3. Dez 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Parsley | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.
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21 | ★ Sage - mit Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.
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18 | ★ Rosemary - mit Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Good fun, plenty of gear.
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Sa 14. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
27 | ★ Genug - mit Gordon Poultney | 15m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling
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26 | ★★★ Yesterday | 27m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.
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23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.
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18 | Psychotic - mit Juergen Bollinger | 20m | Durchschnitt | |||
Wouldn't bother doing it again. Doesn't come together that well.
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19 | ★ Moo Hawaii | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
20 | ★★ Blue Hawaii | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
Dodgy rock at the start detracts.
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22 21 | ★★ Yesterday's Rooster | 22m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22
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12 | Sweet Bugger All | 30m | Vergiss es | |||
I thought this was awful!
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20 | ★ The Last Resort | 30m | Durchschnitt | |||
Loose
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15 | ★ Future Past - mit Ben Weissner | 31m | ★ Gut | |||
Actually good! Some loose blocks though.
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23 | ★★ Haphazard - mit estherenita | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.
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23 | ★ Not Just a Pretty Face | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
22 | ★ Black Spasm - mit Paul Deacon | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.
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Sa 14. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
24 | ★ Pattern Juggler Direct Start | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
25 | More Moves | 10m | Durchschnitt | |||
Looks good but doesn't really come together
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23 | ★ Milk Blood Variant Finish | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
I find this easier than the original!
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23 | ★★★ Milk Blood - mit Gordon Poultney | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.
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23 | ★ Pattern Juggler | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Good climbing - yet another worthwhile 23 in Yesterday Gully
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18 | ★ Tomorrow | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Twicky, and be careful of the start
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18 | ★ Undertow | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Good, and probably easier than Tomorrow!
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20 | ★ The Same Issues | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
19 | Changin' Times | 10m | Vergiss es | |||
Crap gear and dodgy rock
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Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
20 | Hypnosis | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.
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23 | ★★ Snow Blind | 15m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very good but slick
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18 | ★ Four Sticks | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
22 | ★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish | 22m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
22 | ★ Ephemeral | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
24 | ★ Les Ordures Blanches - mit Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
22 | ★★ White Heat - mit Kate Dooley | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
21 21 R | ★★ More of the Same | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.
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18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.
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19 19 R | ★ Green Shirt | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.
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23 23 R | Cat People - mit Gordon Poultney | 25m | Durchschnitt | |||
Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.
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Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Pibroch | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great! Always fairly tough.
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20 18 | ★ Whacky-Did | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.
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21 | ★★ Running on Empty | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
I find this a little awkward.
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24 | ★ Family Feud | 20m, 1 | ★ Gut | |||
18 | ★ Today - mit Kate Finnerty | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Can be quite hard if you don't get it right! I've done a direct finish up the little wall above by accident with worthless gear and a scary mantle. Climbing's ok if you really want to risk your ankles.
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Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★ Hendor | 36m | Durchschnitt | |||
Wouldn't do it again. Not sure how it gets a star. Gwen is better.
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13 | ★ Long Hair And Great Coats | 35m | Durchschnitt | |||
Not that great - the top 5m are good!
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18 19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very nice - 18?
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11 | ★ Gwen | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really nice!
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17 | ★ The Only Way To Fly | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
Watch the rock
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20 19 | ★ Fly By Night | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Best started at ground level on the L wall for the full pump. Not the greatest gear or rock.
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19 19 R | ★ Void - mit Clive Curson | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Spellbinder | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Looks like you're in for heavy duty offwidthing, in fact there's some awesome face holds in just the right places. Great climbing.
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22 | ★ Drivetime | 8m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
20 | ★ Traffic | 7m | ★ Gut | |||
18 | ★ Act in Haste | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
16 15 | ★ Angel Black | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
More like 16?
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22 20 R | ★ Angel Grinder - mit Kieran Lawton | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.
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19 | ★ A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully - mit Kieran Lawton | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Amazing! Looks like 13 and rubbish, is in fact full on for 19, very odd, not that well protected. You won't forget this!
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Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall | ||||||
18 | The Last New Route at Arapiles - mit Edwin Irvine | 35m | Durchschnitt | |||
Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
8 | ★ Barefoot in the Park - mit Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Nice. Chains above Flights of Fancy
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Fr 13. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall | ||||||
17 | Jackass Crack - mit Edwin Irvine | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
18 | ★ Nautilus - mit Edwin Irvine | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 12. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
19 | ★★ Stairway to Hell | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 12. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
21 |
★ Mental Debris
- mit
Gareth Llewellin, Shaggy
1
21
Vorstieg durch
me
2
3
| 40m, 1 | Durchschnitt | |||
Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!
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20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Really quite scary. The gear's not great and the rock is worse. If in doubt, go sideways!
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Do 12. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Shivers - mit estherenita | 55m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.
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20 | ★★ Kingdom Come | 45m | ★ Gut | |||
22 | ★★ The Second Coming | 57m | Vergiss es | |||
The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.
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Do 12. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase - mit Tim Rogers | 100m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fabulous.
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10 | ★★ The Shroud | 120m | ★ Gut | |||
OK but wandery
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11 12 | ★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks - mit Wendy Eden | 120m | Durchschnitt | |||
OK but wandery
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18 17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Too loose for three stars!
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18 | ★★ Transatlantic Crossing - mit Wendy Eden | 40m | Vergiss es | |||
Loose and not fun!
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Do 12. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm - mit Gordon Poultney | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.
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18 | ★★ Virginia | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Awesome!
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16 | ★★ Coming on Chris | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
I always find the greasiness and dodgy gear and rock disconcerting at the start of this. None of it is that bad but...
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24 | ★★ Nose Job | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The initial corner would be daunting to lead. The top bit is great.
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28 | ★★★ India - mit Kate Dooley | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.
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Do 12. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★★ Garden Gnome | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very nice fun.
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18 | Commuted (Strange Fruit) | 45m | Durchschnitt | |||
Tried to do this.. what I did seemed more like 15
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18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very odd getting out of the cell, but interesting after that too. Take some large cams for the start
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13 | ★ Social Comment | 37m | ★ Gut | |||
Very hard for 13!
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26 | ★★ Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - mit Kieran Lawton | 30m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.
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15 | ★ Rush Hour - mit Natasha | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Di 10. Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Sheckle - mit adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m | Durchschnitt | |||
Not the greatest rock/gear/climbing but worth doing once.
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22 | ★★ Clap for Kiwis - mit adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.
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15 18 | ★ Jeckle | 18m | Durchschnitt | |||
Bit of a shock even if you're expecting 15. I could easily believe 18 for the start. Lookout.
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13 13 R | ★★ Rush of Blood | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Yep not much gear up top
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15 | ★★ Mr Hyde | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very interesting
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17 | ★ Crack Attack | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Harder than it looks!
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21 21 R | ★★ Wogs at the Piles | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.
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18 17 | ★ The Creesed Palm - mit adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 14m | ★ Gut | |||
Adam did a more direct start traversing below the corner and up. Good climbing apart from a few loose blocks.
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17 | Double Decker - mit Wendy Eden, adam demmert | 13m | Durchschnitt | |||
OK face climbing, a tad loose feeling.
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