Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - with becca saurus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Sun 13th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Is It About A Bicycle? - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 | Jack-a-Dandy - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Thu 3rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Eye Spy | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ No Turning Back | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 | Unemploid - with Kate Dooley | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Parsley | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.
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21 | ★ Sage - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.
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18 | ★ Rosemary - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, plenty of gear.
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Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
27 | Genug - with Gordon Poultney | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling
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26 | ★★★ Yesterday | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.
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23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.
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18 | Psychotic - with Juergen Bollinger | 20m | Average | |||
Wouldn't bother doing it again. Doesn't come together that well.
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19 | ★ Moo Hawaii | 25m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Blue Hawaii | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Dodgy rock at the start detracts.
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22 21 | ★★ Yesterday's Rooster | 22m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22
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12 | Sweet Bugger All | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
I thought this was awful!
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20 | ★ The Last Resort | 30m | Average | |||
Loose
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15 | ★ Future Past - with Ben Weissner | 31m | ★ Good | |||
Actually good! Some loose blocks though.
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23 | ★★ Haphazard - with estherenita | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.
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23 | ★ Not Just a Pretty Face | 35m | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Black Spasm - with Paul Deacon | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.
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Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
24 | ★ Pattern Juggler Direct Start | 15m | ★ Good | |||
25 | More Moves | 10m | Average | |||
Looks good but doesn't really come together
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23 | ★ Milk Blood Variant Finish | 10m | ★ Good | |||
I find this easier than the original!
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23 | ★★★ Milk Blood - with Gordon Poultney | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.
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23 | ★ Pattern Juggler | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing - yet another worthwhile 23 in Yesterday Gully
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18 | ★ Tomorrow | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Twicky, and be careful of the start
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18 | ★ Undertow | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good, and probably easier than Tomorrow!
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20 | ★ The Same Issues | 10m | ★ Good | |||
19 | Changin' Times | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap gear and dodgy rock
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
20 | Hypnosis | 15m | Average | |||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.
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23 | ★★ Snow Blind | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good but slick
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18 | ★ Four Sticks | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Ephemeral | 20m | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★ Les Ordures Blanches - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ White Heat - with Kate Dooley | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 21 R | ★★ More of the Same | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.
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18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.
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19 19 R | ★ Green Shirt | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.
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23 23 R | Cat People - with Gordon Poultney | 25m | Average | |||
Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Pibroch | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great! Always fairly tough.
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20 18 | ★ Whacky-Did | 20m | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.
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21 | ★★ Running on Empty | 20m | ★ Good | |||
I find this a little awkward.
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24 | ★ Family Feud | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Today - with Kate Finnerty | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Can be quite hard if you don't get it right! I've done a direct finish up the little wall above by accident with worthless gear and a scary mantle. Climbing's ok if you really want to risk your ankles.
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★ Hendor | 36m | Average | |||
Wouldn't do it again. Not sure how it gets a star. Gwen is better.
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13 | ★ Long Hair And Great Coats | 35m | Average | |||
Not that great - the top 5m are good!
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18 19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice - 18?
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11 | ★ Gwen | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice!
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17 | ★ The Only Way To Fly | 15m | Average | |||
Watch the rock
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20 19 | ★ Fly By Night | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Best started at ground level on the L wall for the full pump. Not the greatest gear or rock.
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19 19 R | ★ Void - with Clive Curson | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Spellbinder | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Looks like you're in for heavy duty offwidthing, in fact there's some awesome face holds in just the right places. Great climbing.
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22 | ★ Drivetime | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Traffic | 7m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Act in Haste | 12m | ★ Good | |||
16 15 | ★ Angel Black | 12m | ★ Good | |||
More like 16?
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22 20 R | ★ Angel Grinder - with Kieran Lawton | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.
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19 | ★ A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully - with Kieran Lawton | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Amazing! Looks like 13 and rubbish, is in fact full on for 19, very odd, not that well protected. You won't forget this!
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall | ||||||
18 | The Last New Route at Arapiles - with Edwin Irvine | 35m | Average | |||
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
8 | ★ Barefoot in the Park - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice. Chains above Flights of Fancy
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall | ||||||
17 | Jackass Crack - with Edwin Irvine | 35m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Nautilus - with Edwin Irvine | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
19 | ★★ Stairway to Hell | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
21 |
★ Mental Debris
- with
Gareth Llewellin, Shaggy
1
21
lead by
me
2
3
| 40m, 1 | Average | |||
Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!
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20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Really quite scary. The gear's not great and the rock is worse. If in doubt, go sideways!
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Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Shivers - with estherenita | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.
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20 | ★★ Kingdom Come | 45m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ The Second Coming | 57m | Don't Bother | |||
The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.
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Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase - with Tim Rogers | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fabulous.
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10 | ★★ The Shroud | 120m | ★ Good | |||
OK but wandery
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11 12 | ★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks - with Wendy Eden | 120m | Average | |||
OK but wandery
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18 17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too loose for three stars!
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18 | ★★ Transatlantic Crossing - with Wendy Eden | 40m | Don't Bother | |||
Loose and not fun!
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Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm - with Gordon Poultney | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.
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18 | ★★ Virginia | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome!
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16 | ★★ Coming on Chris | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I always find the greasiness and dodgy gear and rock disconcerting at the start of this. None of it is that bad but...
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24 | ★★ Nose Job | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The initial corner would be daunting to lead. The top bit is great.
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28 | ★★★ India - with Kate Dooley | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.
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Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★★ Garden Gnome | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice fun.
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18 | Commuted (Strange Fruit) | 45m | Average | |||
Tried to do this.. what I did seemed more like 15
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18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very odd getting out of the cell, but interesting after that too. Take some large cams for the start
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13 | ★ Social Comment | 37m | ★ Good | |||
Very hard for 13!
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26 | ★★ Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - with Kieran Lawton | 30m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.
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15 | ★ Rush Hour - with Natasha | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 10th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Sheckle - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m | Average | |||
Not the greatest rock/gear/climbing but worth doing once.
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22 | ★★ Clap for Kiwis - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.
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15 18 | ★ Jeckle | 18m | Average | |||
Bit of a shock even if you're expecting 15. I could easily believe 18 for the start. Lookout.
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13 13 R | ★★ Rush of Blood | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Yep not much gear up top
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15 | ★★ Mr Hyde | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very interesting
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17 | ★ Crack Attack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder than it looks!
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21 21 R | ★★ Wogs at the Piles | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.
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18 17 | ★ The Creesed Palm - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Adam did a more direct start traversing below the corner and up. Good climbing apart from a few loose blocks.
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17 | Double Decker - with Wendy Eden, adam demmert | 13m | Average | |||
OK face climbing, a tad loose feeling.
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