Showing all 38 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Parsley | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.
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21 | ★ Sage - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.
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18 | ★ Rosemary - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, plenty of gear.
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Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
27 | ★ Genug - with Gordon Poultney | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling
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26 | ★★★ Yesterday | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.
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23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.
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18 | Psychotic - with Juergen Bollinger | 20m | Average | |||
Wouldn't bother doing it again. Doesn't come together that well.
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19 | ★ Moo Hawaii | 25m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Blue Hawaii | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Dodgy rock at the start detracts.
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22 21 | ★★ Yesterday's Rooster | 22m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22
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12 | Sweet Bugger All | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
I thought this was awful!
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20 | ★ The Last Resort | 30m | Average | |||
Loose
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15 | ★ Future Past - with Ben Weissner | 31m | ★ Good | |||
Actually good! Some loose blocks though.
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23 | ★★ Haphazard - with estherenita | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.
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23 | ★ Not Just a Pretty Face | 35m | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Black Spasm - with Paul Deacon | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.
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Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
24 | ★ Pattern Juggler Direct Start | 15m | ★ Good | |||
25 | More Moves | 10m | Average | |||
Looks good but doesn't really come together
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23 | ★ Milk Blood Variant Finish | 10m | ★ Good | |||
I find this easier than the original!
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23 | ★★★ Milk Blood - with Gordon Poultney | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.
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23 | ★ Pattern Juggler | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing - yet another worthwhile 23 in Yesterday Gully
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18 | ★ Tomorrow | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Twicky, and be careful of the start
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18 | ★ Undertow | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good, and probably easier than Tomorrow!
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20 | ★ The Same Issues | 10m | ★ Good | |||
19 | Changin' Times | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap gear and dodgy rock
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
20 | Hypnosis | 15m | Average | |||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.
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23 | ★★ Snow Blind | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good but slick
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18 | ★ Four Sticks | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Ephemeral | 20m | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★ Les Ordures Blanches - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ White Heat - with Kate Dooley | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 21 R | ★★ More of the Same | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.
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18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.
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19 19 R | ★ Green Shirt | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.
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23 23 R | Cat People - with Gordon Poultney | 25m | Average | |||
Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.
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Showing all 38 ascents.