Ascents in The Pharos and Surrounds as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

Good fun, plenty of gear.

Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.

This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.

Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling

I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.

If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.

Dodgy rock at the start detracts.

I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22

I thought this was awful!

Actually good! Some loose blocks though.

Loose

Wouldn't bother doing it again. Doesn't come together that well.

Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.

Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.

Looks good but doesn't really come together

I find this easier than the original!

Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.

Good climbing - yet another worthwhile 23 in Yesterday Gully

Twicky, and be careful of the start

Good, and probably easier than Tomorrow!

Crap gear and dodgy rock

You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.

Very good but slick

I thought gear was OK on this, but I've only done it once. My impression is that it doesn't deserve the R rating. Climbing was cool.

A little scary up the arete at the top as the rope stretch would land you on the ledge. You could belay on the ledge which would help if 18 is close to your limit.

Start is fun, finish is scary! There's a #3RP that is too low to keep you off the ledge and a loose flake you have to pull on. Happy not to do this one again.

Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.

Great! Always fairly tough.

I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.

I find this a little awkward.

Can be quite hard if you don't get it right! I've done a direct finish up the little wall above by accident with worthless gear and a scary mantle. Climbing's ok if you really want to risk your ankles.

Wouldn't do it again. Not sure how it gets a star. Gwen is better.

Not that great - the top 5m are good!

Very nice - 18?

Really nice!

Watch the rock

Best started at ground level on the L wall for the full pump. Not the greatest gear or rock.

Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

Looks like you're in for heavy duty offwidthing, in fact there's some awesome face holds in just the right places. Great climbing.

A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.

More like 16?

Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.

Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner

Amazing! Looks like 13 and rubbish, is in fact full on for 19, very odd, not that well protected. You won't forget this!

I found this really quite hard! Quite substantial for a short looking route.

It is good but two stars not three.

Interesting and fun. Had a hillarious ascent with Cate where I clawed my way up getting pumped out of my brain, then Cate floated up finding all manner of rests including a no hands kneebar where I was most pumped!

Nice. Chains above Flights of Fancy