Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Dom 25.º Dic 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Free Will - con Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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Mié 16.º Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | Fine Tune - con Wendy Eden | 16m | Medio | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Dom 13.º Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ Buena | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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Vie 11.º Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - con becca saurus | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Mié 6.º Jul 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Running Amok - con Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Jue 9.º Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - con Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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Dom 5.º Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - con Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - con Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Buena | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Jue 2.º Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - con Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Buena | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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13 | ★ Sundowner - con Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 | ★ Cream Between - con Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Sáb 28.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Walking Amok | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 23.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Meekly Unconcerned | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!
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Sáb 21.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Running Amok - con Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!
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Mié 18.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★ Walking Simulator | 12m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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17 16 | ★ Guider not a climber - con Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.
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Dom 15.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion - con Wendy Eden | 43m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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Sáb 14.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | Under Control - con Ben Weissner | 30m | Medio | |||
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier
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Dom 1.º Mayo 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
17 | Armchair critic - con Wendy Eden | 15m | Medio | |||
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.
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21 | ★ Ice is Nice - con Wendy Eden | 12m | Medio | |||
Felt hard even on tr.
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Dom 10.º Abr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ No Space for Boxes | 30m | Medio | |||
Sáb 9.º Abr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Stillborn - con Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.
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Sáb 9.º Abr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
17 | Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) | 4m | Ni te molestes | |||
20 | Greg Will be Pleased - con Wendy Eden | 9m | Ni te molestes | |||
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.
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22 | Greg will be Amused - con Wendy Eden | 10m, 2 | Medio | |||
22 | ★ Lou Direct - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Probably better than the original
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24 | ★ Man on the Land - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.
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Dom 3.º Abr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
23 | Procrastinationable - con Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Buena | |||
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.
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Sáb 26.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza - con Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Nice!
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15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
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18 | Great Sleeping Weather - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | Medio | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
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17 17 R | ★ The Crumpet Didn't Front - con Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.
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Mié 23.º Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 18 | ★ Point Perpetrator - con Wendy Eden | 17m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.
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22 21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters - con Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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20 21 | ★ Lake Thelma - con Wendy Eden | 18m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Mié 23.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
17 | Ed's Super Sarnie - con Ben Weissner | 15m | Medio | |||
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.
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Dom 20.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Nile - con Kieran Lawton | 110m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great climbing on the middle pitch.
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Dom 20.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ The Shiralee Direct - con Wendy Eden | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.
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14 | Dingbats - con Wendy Eden | 50m | Basura | |||
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.
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17 | Banshee - con Wendy Eden | 50m | Ni te molestes | |||
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star
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Sáb 19.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Grand Design - con Gareth Llewellin | 54m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.
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Mié 16.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 | ★ The Serpent's Venom - con Wendy Eden | 60m | ★ Buena | |||
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup
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Dom 13.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Is It About A Bicycle? - con Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 | Jack-a-Dandy - con Wendy Eden | 12m | Medio | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Sáb 12.º Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
18 | ★ Hey Youse | 18m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.
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19 | ★ Waterfall Bogans - con Clive Curson | 18m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Really nice incut holds.
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23 | ★★ Pain Criminals Link-up - con Geordie Webb | 18m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds
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19 | ★★ Pains Ford | 18m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied
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20 | ★★ Try Land | 17m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
21 | ★ Brush with Authority - con Clive Curson | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that
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19 18 | ★ Glue Mountains - con Geordie Webb | 20m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day
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17 18 | ★ Gaybarry - con Geordie Webb | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.
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Jue 3.º Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Eye Spy | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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Jue 4.º Feb 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
17 | A Night to Remember - con Kate Dooley | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.
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Lun 18.º En 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Puggle Burrow | 26m | Medio | |||
Maybe easier if you're tall?
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20 | ★ Indecisivity | 15m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
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23 | ★★ Misunderestimated | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!
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Dom 17.º En 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ No Turning Back | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 | Unemploid - con Kate Dooley | 15m | Ni te molestes | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Dom 17.º En 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
18 19 | Frontispiece - con Wendy Eden | 30m | Ni te molestes | |||
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back
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Dom 10.º En 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Pritchard's Neuralgia | 26m | ★ Buena | |||
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.
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12 | ★ Eat Your Greens - con Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!
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Dom 3.º En 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | ||||||
22 | ★ Cocky Calamity - con Wendy Eden | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
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18 | ★★ Skirt Alert - con Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging
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19 | ★ Udder Shudder - con Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★ Spare Rib - con Wendy Eden | 20m | Medio | |||
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.
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Dom 3.º En 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Town Cliffs The Radiator | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hot - con Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
The route to do, good climbing and position.
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22 | ★ Feel the Heat - con Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
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19 | The Only Way is Up - con Wendy Eden | 26m | Medio | |||
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.
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14 | Dirty Work - con Wendy Eden | 25m | Medio | |||
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.
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Dom 3.º En 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Checkpoint Charlie - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | Medio | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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22 21 | ★ Sacred Ground - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
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22 | ★★ Sprung - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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Dom 3.º En 2016 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
17 | ★★ Gerontian - con Zoe Wilkinson | 46m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.
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24 | The Price You Pay Direct | 20m | Medio | |||
18 | ★★ Island Cruise | 30m | Medio | |||
17 | ★★ Odysseus | 84m | Medio | |||
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.
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12 | ★★ Scarab | 59m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Wandery but has some good bits
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16 | ★★ The Frog - con Wendy Eden | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016
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19 | Crash Dive | 25m | Ni te molestes | |||
Poor rock
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21 | ★★★ Pathos | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
20 | ★★ Blanketty Blank | 28m | Medio | |||
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?
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24 25 | ★★ Bliss | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
25 | ★★ Ostler | 60m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin and hard
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21 20 | ★★★ Blimp | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
22 | ★★ Lunging for Melons | 15m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very odd!
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25 | ★★ Manic Depressive - con Paul Hoskins | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
25 24 | Fistful of Steel | 15m | Medio | |||
27 | ★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain) - con Dave Jones | 12m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.
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Dom 13.º Dic 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pet Parsley | 30m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile
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Sáb 12.º Dic 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
13 | Blue Toes | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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13 15 | ★ Greenfingers | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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18 | ★ Brown Thumb - con Wendy Eden | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
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19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.
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Sáb 5.º Dic 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
14 | Pitchfork - con Wendy Eden | 40m | Medio | |||
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.
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15 | ★ A Weed in the Garden - con Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Buena | |||
Good climbing all the way. Fun.
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16 | ★ Babylon - con Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.
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