Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Jue 23.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
12 |
★★ Cheshire Cat
![]() | 22m | ★ Buena | |||
15 |
★★ Siamese Crack
![]() | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Slippery and hard for the grade
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22 |
★ Lickwid Pussy
![]() | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
19 |
★ Puss 'n Boots
![]() | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Hard and pumpy and difficult to protect well at the start. #4 camalot helps.
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18 |
★★ Claw
![]() | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Slick and hard!
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24 |
★ Indoctrination
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Needs rebolting. The start is crimpy and not that great. It's a better route to do the start of Claw and join the traverse at about 4m. Gear is not totally bomber with a shallow cam pretty much all between you and the ground.
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22 21 |
★ A Piece of Flake
![]() | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
A little runout after the flake
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Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress | ||||||
20 |
★ Delicacy
![]() | 8m | Ni te molestes | |||
Rubbish - really loose
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20 |
★ Delicacy
![]() | 8m | Ni te molestes | |||
Rubbish - really loose
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24 25 |
★ Alone in the Dead Zone
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Good actually, but too thin for me these days.
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20 |
Shattered
![]() | 16m | Basura | |||
Loose as anything. Rubbish.
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20 |
Glass Goblin
![]() | 25m | Basura | |||
Rubbish.
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Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
19 18 |
★ Happy Ending
![]() | 11m | Medio | |||
The hard start is hard.
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18 |
★ Wildfire
![]() | 13m | Medio | |||
22 |
★★ Straw Dogs
![]() | 11m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Pretty tough!
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Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 |
★ Yelping Pup
![]() | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
very short
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18 |
★ The Hard Ears
![]() | 13m | ★ Buena | |||
19 |
★ Black Dog
![]() | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Reachy and pretty tough.
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22 |
★ Cruel Canine
![]() | 15m | Medio | |||
15 |
★ Puppy Love
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
21 |
Dog Day Afternoon
![]() | 25m, 1 | Medio | |||
18 |
★★ Howling Wolf
![]() | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Beware the easy but very run out finish
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18 |
★ Dingo
![]() | 25m | Ni te molestes | |||
Very short
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13 |
Cubbies Climb
![]() | 10m | Basura | |||
Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
14 |
★★ Strife on the Gravy Train
![]() | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Steep for 14! Great route.
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20 |
★ A Boy and His Dog
![]() | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Pretty goey and the rock's not great but it's memorable!
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25 |
★★ Life in the Fast Lane Direct Finish
![]() | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, but the original doesn't need improving. A thin technical move.
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24 |
★★ Life in the Fast Lane
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Fantastic, super interesting climbing. No gear off the ledge, and the first move is not easy.
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24 |
★★ Paladin
![]() | 16m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall | ||||||
21 |
★ Whimpering Wuss
![]() | 8m | ★ Buena | |||
20 |
★ Wussted
![]() | 9m | ★ Buena | |||
Interesting
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Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
20 |
★★ Bam Bam
![]() | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
22 |
★★ Pebbles
![]() | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar | ||||||
20 |
★ Dino
![]() | 13m | Medio | |||
Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall | ||||||
18 |
★ Bunyip
![]() | 8m | Medio | |||
18 |
★★ The Stoat Steps Out
![]() | 8m | ★ Buena | |||
It's so much longer than it looks!
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25 |
Small Wall
![]() | 8m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Quite good, a wild solo.
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18 |
★ Creeping Green Chinese Crud
![]() | 8m | Medio | |||
Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
24 |
★★ Horrorscope
![]() | 16m | ★ Buena | |||
I think it's good. It's not long but the climbing is interesting.
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18 |
★★ Hyaena
![]() | 16m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
17 |
★★ Moby Dick
![]() | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mar 14.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 |
★ Dylan
![]() | 15m | Medio | |||
Hard!
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20 21 R |
★ Nightlinger
![]() | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
There is not good gear and fairly hard climbing past a loose block at the start. You get in a bomber wire for the technical crux.
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20 21 R |
★ Nightlinger
![]() | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
There is not good gear and fairly hard climbing past a loose block at the start. You get in a bomber wire for the technical crux.
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20 |
★ Mind Games
![]() | 25m | Medio | |||
The good bit is pretty short
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21 |
★ Medea's Revenge
![]() | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Fairly tough. Double ropes are good
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19 |
★★ Possibly Beautiful
![]() | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
18 |
★★ Golden Fleece
![]() | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
I think it's OK but not 2 stars.
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17 16 |
★ Jason
![]() | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Hard and uber slippery
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16 |
Horrible Realities
![]() | 30m | Medio | |||
15 |
★★ Beautiful Possibilities
![]() | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Slippery at the bottom
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10 11 |
★★ Pedro
![]() | 36m | ★ Buena | |||
Lun 13.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Squeakeasy
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Reproductive-organ-tearing-megaclassic. There is a small wire in the jug on the right after the first bulge.
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19 |
★ Nut Case
![]() | 22m | Ni te molestes | |||
Hard and loose and not great gear and the climbing sucks...
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16 |
★ Brick Dust
![]() | 22m | Medio | |||
Okay, and you can dodge the chimney at the top by heading onto the right wall.
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Lun 13.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump | ||||||
15 |
Leafy Quoit
![]() | 25m | Ni te molestes | |||
Sáb 11.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Toccata
![]() | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Hard and slippery for 14! Great as one long 50m pitch
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17 |
★★ Discord Direct
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
14 |
★★ Tremulo
![]() | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Seems stiff for 14. Interesting.
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18 |
★★ Jens Roof
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
17 |
★★ Dirge
![]() | 85m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
21 |
★★ The Wraith
![]() | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
I'd give this one star not three. Rock is pretty dodgy at times.
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19 |
★★★ Tannin
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I don't love it like some do but it's a good route.
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19 |
★ Wyrd
![]() | 50m | Medio | |||
I backed off this. Gear and rock are not very good at start.
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24 |
★ Abbie Normal
![]() | 24m | ★ Buena | |||
Sáb 11.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 |
★★ Horn Piece
![]() | 33m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
I think this is wonderful.
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11 |
★★ Didgeridoo
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
9 |
★★ Conifer Crack
![]() | 80m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Second (and third) pitches are better than the first which has a single steep hard move. Top pitches seem hard for 9.
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 |
★★ Ejaculation
![]() | 50m | ★ Buena | |||
Slippery
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14 |
★★ C.S. Concerto
![]() | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
16 |
★★ Libretto
![]() | 50m | ★ Buena | |||
10 |
★★ D Major
![]() | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
8 |
★★ Diapason
![]() | 55m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
11 |
★★ Piccolo
![]() | 33m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
22 22 R |
★ Aardvark Original Start (Aardvark Direct Start)
![]() | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
18 |
★★ Cantata
![]() | 35m | ★ Buena | |||
Worthwhile
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14 |
★★ D Minor
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
24 |
★★ The Philosopher
![]() | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Chad broke his ankles going for it on this one. Don't go for it unless you know your gear is good.
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20 |
★★ Cadenza
![]() | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Wanders around but good climbing
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18 |
★★ Aardvark
![]() | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very pumpy to protect well in first half.
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 |
★★★ Lemmington
![]() | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
I think it's good but not awesome. One star.
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15 |
★ Mudeye
![]() | 12m | Ni te molestes | |||
16 |
★ Stentor 3rd Pitch
![]() | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Good fun!
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22 |
★ Private Detective
![]() | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Always a little scary.
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24 24 R |
Private Assassin
![]() | 10m | Medio | |||
I fell off the last move in light rain. Fortunately the cam held or I would have been mush.
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17 |
★ Saint Peter
![]() | 10m | ★ Buena | |||
Good, strenuous climbing, a bit greasy
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | ||||||
18 |
★ Dude Boobs
![]() | 15m, 2 | Medio | |||
Good position, climbing is average
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22 21 |
★ Frenzy
![]() | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Stiff for 21, start is desperate
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24 |
★★★ Spring Offensive
![]() | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.
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23 |
★ A Plaything For the Missus
![]() | 15m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Bolts need replacing
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | ||||||
22 |
★ Guideline
![]() | 8m | ★ Buena | |||
Cute!
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25 |
★ The Flashing Blade
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
23 |
★★ Iron Void
![]() | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I found this scary. The wires at the start take a lot of finding, and the top is runout above a dead tree to impale yourself on!
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Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | ||||||
23 |
★★ Finger Prince
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Vie 10.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | ||||||
23 |
Throw Me No Beers
![]() | 12m, 2 | Medio | |||
Bolts probably need replacing now
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20 |
Steel Delinquency
![]() | 18m | Medio | |||
Don't remember it being that great.
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Mié 8.º Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
12 11 |
★ Lizard Procrastination
![]() | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Varied and enjoyable. An easier variation for guiding is to go R around the corner on the second pitch, makes the whole route about 9.
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18 |
★ Riddled
![]() | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Despite appearances it's worthwhile! Not the greatest gear (or rock obviously) so don't make it your first 18.
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21 |
★★ English Ethics
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I really like this one.
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21 |
★★ Cruel Consistency
![]() | 15m | Medio | |||
I find the rock and gear to be poor on this, I wouldn't lead this again.
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