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Jackass Wall

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Ascensiones: 13
10

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

North-facing wall below Voidoid Pinnacle

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Restricciones heredado de Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Acceso

Go to Huey Wall and it's the continuation of the wall facing Huey.

Ética heredado de Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Etiquetas

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vías

Añadir vía(s) Añadir croquis Reordenar Edición en bloque Convertir grados
Grado Vía

A route in its own right and not a great one at that.

Start: Start in gully below 'Voidoid' under huge chockstone.

Traverse high into line from left.

PA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter & Joy Fletcher, 1982

Easy crack then corner above.

Start: Start up easy crack at left end of lower face, artound right of 'Voidoid Direct Start'.

PA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Delicate start 2 metres right of A Bit... leads to ledge at 15 metres Climb the arete at the L end of the wall to finish. A yellow Alien was essential protection.

Original route finished up buttress left of A Bit Of The Old One-Two.

PA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter (alt), 1985

Quite good with a surprisingly technical bulge.

The bulging crack 2 metres right of Nautilus and 2 metres left of the large tree. After the crack, go right through overlap and then back left.

PA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985

Good technical start.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Jackass Crack', behind gum.

Up crack to overhang which is passed on left. Go right through overlap and then back left to easy finish.

PA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Crack and ramp 1 metre right of The Last New Route At 'Arapiles' then easy overlap.

PA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Bottomless thin crack 2 metres right of 'Suffragette', finishing straight up.

PA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

Line 5 metres right of 'Suffragette', 8 metres right of gum.

PA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985

Obvious diagonal facing Huey.

PA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

Direct line up and across 'Altered States'.

PA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Fecha: 2016

número ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Autor(es): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Fecha: 2013

número ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Autor(es): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Fecha: 2011

número ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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