Vías en Arapiles para grado seleccionado

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen.

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'. Start R of T.

Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear.

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish. Start below the next buttress right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top.

Start at base of mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 metres left of 'Ann', Finish up left face of the bulge

Start at mossy ramp as for 'Falling Upwards'. Move right at top of ramp to join large obvious crackline.

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

The major skanky diagonal cleft.

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof.

Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's.

1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

1. 40m (8) Arachnus p1.

2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

4. 30m (8) Arachnus p4.

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age' up to right leaning flake

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

Shabby left wall of broken corner immediately left of 'Winterset'. 'Contrived' up middle of slab to finish just left of roof.

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock. Start as for Youth In Asia.

1. 15m (8) Climb up a couple of metres to join the traverse-line of The Bishop's Crook and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.

1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

Short, orange corner 15m L of 'Little Ripper', then L to grey, L-facing corner. Up this to tree.

Start in the centre of the pinnacle up and left of Zorba, about 3 metres left of Leprechaun. Up the face just right of the corner to big horizontal then up central crack. Roped scramble off back necessary.

Takes the major right-facing corner that starts from the ledge 25 metres up the cliff.The first pitch is rubbish but the corner is superb. Originally graded 9.

1. 25m (-) Ascend rubbishy face to ledge below corner.

2. 25m (11) The excellent right-facing corner with a tough start.