Vías en Pierces Pass para grado seleccionado

The middle of the three cracks. Fantastic looking crack that is visible from both the track and many of the climbs on the East Side. Easy corner to hand crack that then widens. Finger crack to finish. Rap off unpleasantly slung death block on top.

From the Pierces Pass Lower Carpark, head down the Pierces Pass walking track, looking for the Yileen canyon exit track (on the right) when approximately below The Colours of Spring. Head down the Canyon Exit Track, across the creek, and back up the other side (passing below Wrath of Delilah, Samson Gets a #1 and Kryptonite Crack), and below the cliffline (past Bladderhozen, Church of the Seven Samurai and The Iron Throne) to the bottom of Yileen Canyon.

Bush bash through dense wall-of-tree in a westerly direction below the cliffline (staying high-ish) for 100m to another slot canyon (this is the abseil descent from the climbs beyond this point), and for another 100m to Mrs Mac's Crack (the first of the obvious, overgrown corner-cracks, in grey rock). 15m further along, down a slight scramble is the direct, vegetated grovel start to Tientel (look for several carrots directly above, this is Kiss and Tell (22), which shares the same start).

Better than Ben Hur is another 100m further along the base of the cliff (and up a vegetated, loose gully).

P1 12m (15) - Up dirty, vegetated, barely protected corner to groove/chimney. Up this until it ends, then left along vegetated/loose ledge to belay below the main corner.

P2 45m (20) - Up loose blocks and vegetation, to overgrown, dirty corner. Carefully up this to a nice-looking clean corner at 35m height. Layback up clean corner, then continue up to a stance on a small, vegetated ledge below loose corner above (average gear on this belay).

P3 45m (20) - Up past shale-band and through roof to vegetated corner. Okay climbing up corner past 2 bulges. Belay on rubble-strewn ledge (fixed hex), 10m below big shale roof.

P4 45m (21) - Up corner to disgusting shale ledge and shale roof. Carefully get a #5 cam (or #4 higher up) into the wide shale-crack in the roof. Through roof with much trepidation (being careful not to kill your belayer), then more enjoyable steep corner-crack climbing to huge shale/dirt ledge.

P5 35m (21) - Up tricky, vegetated stemming corner to stance below roof. Chimney through roof, and up dirty, mossy, vegetated corner above to shale-mantle next to a small cave (#2 & #3 cams out right to belay).

P6 25m (12) - Dangerously up completely overgrown and underprotected corner. Up wide crack. Up ironstone plates to belay well-back on small trees.

To escape, walk east down the steepening hill and into the overgrown canyon. CAREFULLY down the steep canyon (through a wall of shrubs/trees) aiming for a tree with multiple slings around it at the canyon drop-off. A full 60m abseil will JUST make it to the ground, or a 40m abseil (to carrots + carabiners on the RIGHT side of the canyon), and another 20m abseil to the ground.

NOTE: *Pitch 2 does NOT finish at the first set of chains, but instead goes up a short corner to the left, then back right under the roof to a set of carrot bolt anchors around the corner.

*After the recent bushfires, rapping off after P3 is no longer feasible (the rap tree is disintegrating), you must top out (P4) to escape this climb safely.

1. 30m (19) Start up the obvious thin crack with a hard move off the ground. Continue up easier territory to chain belay on ledge.

2. 45m (19) Up and left into steep finger crack and then left again into easy choss corner with one true guillotine block up high. Up to ledge with bolts and chain, step left into thin corner and head up to the ledge below roof. Walk a ways right and round the corner to a carrot belay. Consider belaying at the first chain before the thin corner if you have not made adequate arrangements to mitigate potentially horrendous rope drag.

3. 25m (21) Ultra desperate moves for the grade off the belay past two carrots to much easier ground. Up face to slab and then to ledge where you can belay (trad).

4. 15m Easy (roped) scrambling to top of spire.

Escape: Getting off this route is rather epic and a bit of an adventure in its own right. There are currently (04/18) some in situ slings around a large block that you could rap off at the end of pitch three if need be. Replace them or treat with GREAT caution. Alternatively you can attempt the walk off. Begin this by scrambling off the back of the pinnacle and crossing (with care) the awesome chockstone that bridges the chasm. Scramble down this chockstone on its left hand side to a large tree. Behind this tree is a slot in the rock that is about 2m deep, 50cm high and runs horizontally for approx 15m. Slide into this slot and carefully crawl on your stomach along the ledge trying to ignore the 100m drop to your left. A belay can be set up on the large tree for the leader but there is not much on the other side to protect a second. After exiting the slot wander around left, making upwards progress where it is safest and easiest to do so until you have eventually breached all the major cliff bands and can walk to the summit of Rigby Hill, all the while thinking that the walk off was probably more involved than the route. A classic Bluies trad day.

Start up 'Heavy Chaffing' and go right at the top.

Climbs the prominent crack about 20m right of Hypothermia just before the big cave. Two good pitches in an amazing location. Recommended rack: single set of wires and double cams to #3.

1. 20m (15) Start up short slab below prominent flake crack, stepping right into shallow left facing corner. Follow crack up to gear belay under cave on comfy ledge.

2. 20m (21) Continue up crack to base of roof and plug in some gear. Climb left along roof crack to lip (crux) and follow left tending line to top. Belay at double carrot anchor set about 5m back from edge on shelf, but recommended to use climbing rope to extend belay to edge. Walk off via descent gully ~150m left.

Long sport pitch above far right end of Lunch Ledge, no bolt plates required. To descend either walk off left (north) 300m and scramble down gully splitting Lunch Ledge or 45m rap from cave at top (don't rap in windy weather, you'll lose a rope).

Major featured corner just left (facing the cliff) and down the hill from the Mirrorball pinnacle. Take a handful of bolt plates.

1. 30m (19) Up fantastic corner past old piton with heaps of varied moves and plenty of gear to a series ledges below an awesome thin corner. Up this to double carrot belay.

2. 8m (2) Move belay a few metres right to another double carrot belay below next corner.

3. 40m (21) Follow the broken corner system up and left, passing a few ledges and into the major corner. Up this to roof and then traverse left past a bolt to the arete. Up this to triple bolt belay.

4. 25m (20) Left and up wall past three bolts to a ledge. Up death by ironstone face above to Lunch Ledge

Climb the south-facing (downhill) arete of the free-standing pinnacle 40m past Weaselburger, predominantly on gear.

5 carrot bolts and a double rack of cams. Bring more big cams (#3 an #4) if you get scared on trad.

Rap off anchor at the top, 45m straight over the route.

Pull thru on gear on first pitch and go up escape gully to avoid choss at the end of pitch 8.