Vías en Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd para grado seleccionado

Classic endurance pumper. Thin start (like everything here) then trend up left for a couple of bolts then back right following the jugs until short flake and heartbreak exploding arms finish under rooflet. The bolts on this route are part new and old - with bolts 1, 4 and 5 still being the originals and probably also suspect.

A bit squeezed in between CC and II and shares some holds with those routes so maybe do something else if someone’s already on them. Start 2m R of CC, 2m L of II. Tricky boulder start, rooflet, then pump up and leftwards.

Start from the ground!

Climbs THE arete, on the left side.

The seam 3m L of HYC.

A mostly trad route up a series of corners (some cracked, some fused). Bring your A Grade stemming ability for the crux pitch. Rack - wires, singles of #0.3-0.5 camalots & doubles of #0.75-#4. Rock quality on this route is big grain and sometimes dirty - take care. All belays are bolted. Approach - rap anchors are located halfway along the crawl section with the fixed rope. Either fix a 70m rope, and rap down to top of pitch 1 and then double rope 30m to ground - or fix a 100m rap line. The route starts left (looking out) of where the rap ropes touches down.

1. 30m (19) Short handcrack to grasstree, then step left into fused corner (bolt). Up corner (fiddly gear) to ledge. Finish up spooky but spectacular layback crack to novelty belay on "boot flake" ledge.

2. 25m (23 to 25) Left off ledge (medium cams in breaks) to bolted face & techy fused corner. Save a #1 & 2 Camalot for the top. Full hanging belay on bolts. Leave the rest of the rack for the second to lug up. The grade of the crux on this pitch is proving quite divisive (hence the route name).

3. 25m (21) 3 bolts up face to the right of corner (bird poo marks the way!) then swing right into blind trad protected corner that leads to tiny ledge belay.

4. 30m (21) Stem up a few moves to cam break - then traverse right onto orange face and up to small roof crack. Over this (burly!) then up long dirty wide crack to top. Don't place all your big gear down low - you will want it high up!

Currently un-climbable due to approach ledge being off-limits due to rare plants. Batman to the first bolt then steep rising traverse right then blast up wall and overhang above. If you batman start from bolt 2 its a pumpy less sharp 24.

Bouldery left trending face above lower anchors then finish through steep roof (same last two bolts and anchor as Snowflake). Backjump to clean.

Mega pumper! Thug through steep ground above first set of anchors, then plough onwards up spaced jugs to hard finish. This is a full 35m, make sure your rope is long enough.

Continue upwards from Sheep Go to Heaven for a powerful finale that features some unique bouldering for the bluies that will make you earn the wall!

Thanks, Wade for gifting me the route!

Upgraded in latest guide. Start at the crack 1m or so R of Samson Gets a #1 and follow this up to the arete. Go around the arete and past one bolt (has a biner on it as of 04/18) to desperate, disintegrating and gripping crux sequence that gets harder every time someone pulls on. If you manage to old school your way through this, continue up the slowly falling apart crack to the ledge. Rap off the block above Samson.

Take at least 16 draws, a few slings, and prussiks for leader and second. Two 50m ropes suffice. All U-bolts. Pitches 2→4 are protected from rain.

1. 45m (20) Starts about 50m down L of Iron Throne at freestanding pillar (look for U-bolts). While the easiest pitch, expect some adventure. Climb chimney between pillar and wall to ledge. Left and left again past ledges (take care) and up negotiating some shale to major corner system with great rock. Up this, eventually exiting L and up ramp to belay (bolts placed high, extend to belay on ramp).

2. 25m (23) Slabbing up solid grey, then orange rock with delicate section up high, trending L to large belay ledge.

3. 25m (25) Directly right off the belay, then blast up the sustained orange wall on perfect stone. Pull on fixed sling to avoid a sandy mantle and gain the belay in alcove. Third belay bolt available for positioning extra bodies or kit.

4. 25m (25) Committing roof in an exposed position (hard to grade this pitch as it's really just a couple of steep moves through the roof then easier climbing). A couple of bolts lead to the roof (rig to minimise drag). Once through ceiling, easier climbing on large features and some sandy scoops to outrageous belay stance on the edge of the world. Leave the second rope fixed to the p3 belay to assist getting back in, or if your second isn't keen, it's possible to be lowered and clean this like a regular sport pitch. 15 clips.

Classic hairline splitter crack, with a mix of crack and technical face climbing. Visible on your left as you head down the main Pierces Pass walking track. You can access the top rap-anchors for Grasshopper wall via this route: Grasshopper Wall Top Approach GPS Tracklog. Bring a full rack from micro sizes to #3 Cam, with extra small-medium wires (and a set of larger RPs). Start directly below the main crack. 80m rope gets you to the ground.

1. 8m (18) - Short, dirty corner and face to ledge with 2 ringbolts. Harder than you want it to be.

2. 32m (25) - Low-angle splitter crack of varying sizes. Climb to the little rooflet with rings out left. Skip them and continue into the next section past the rooflet and wall above. Bring lots of wires on this pitch (including the small ones).

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper, in a great exposed position. P2 and P3 can be combined for a long, continuous pitch of challenging face-climbing. Start as for Grasshopper.

1. 10m (15) Grasshopper P1.

2. 15m (23) 9 Bolts. Up Grasshopper for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

3. 20m (25) 7 Bolts. A great technical pitch, but kinda wandery. From the belay, up reinforced flake system, and bust out left to bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m, then back right via hard moves on flakes to other orange streak. Up thin face to horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors.

Uber arete - probably the most striking, sustained and exposed in the Bluies (and that's saying something!). A recent rebolt and new direct start addition has pushed this back into popularity. Now all rings, no bolt plates necessary.

Fix a rope and rap 40m from cluster of bolts at the top of the arête to a small stance (double ringbolts) on the arête (about 5m below the original belay on the face).

Step around right side of arete off the belay. Up past 4 bolts to break. Truck around left side of the arête, then up past 2 more bolts (original route rejoins from the left here) and up 7 more bolts climbing on both sides of the arête as necessary. Be smart with runner length to minimise rope-cutting potential (https://vimeo.com/210809039) and drag.

It is still possible to climb the inferior original shorter version of the route by abseiling instead to a higher 2 x carrot belay on the face left of the arête, and starting up the brittle face via old carrots and fixed hangers, to join the arête at the 2nd ring on the lefthand side of the arête.

Classic guidebook-cover worthy wall climb with a hell of a lot of air below you on the runouts.

To rap-in - locate 2 rings a few metres further down the hill (east) from the Disco Non Stop Party arete. Fix a rope to rings and rap 50m down the route, taking the R fork (facing in, the L fork is for The Obvious Elbow (of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter), bouncing to stay in contact with the wall (and pre-placing a few draws to direct the rope) to a small ledge and semi-hanging 2 x bolt belay. You can also climb up to this ledge via the first couple of bolts of The Obvious Elbow (accessed via Thomson & Thomson Traverse) if you don't have a rap rope, or if you prefer to climb this as a 5m longer pitch from the most cushy ledge (and are sensible with rollers/extenders).

13 bolts, with an optional 0.3/0.4 cam in a slot near the top (to mitigate an exciting runout).

Very exposed route up a clean overhung wall - with zero vegetation or choss. Lots of bolts and air. Bring 20 draws (some long ones) and a 70m rap rope and 70m (or longer) lead rope. No bolt plates required. Only one belay is fully hanging. Route stays in the shade from 9am until very late afternoon (it's cold!).

Rap in as described above to big ledge. Pitch 3 of this route starts 5m left of the rap touch down point. For the final rap walk to far left end of ledge to double rings - rig 70m lead rope as a double rope rap - and rap 34m down face to small belay ledge just right of major corner and above amazing hanging vertical swamp.

1. 17m (21) From small belay ledge climb the right trending line across gorgeous waterwashed face to awkward mantle onto shale ledge. Some moves are pretty reachy. Semi-hanging belay. 9 bolts.

2. 17m (25) Pull on the first two bolts as aid then left leading line that gets harder the higher it goes. Lots of thin moves. Belay on left end of ledge at same anchors you rapped in on. 10 bolts.

3. 14m (22) Move belay 15m right to middle of big ledge (single low bolt to belay from). Climb short left facing fused corner, then jugs and short baffling corner to small ledge belay (DBB). 5 bolts.

4. 32m (24) Left off the belay past diving board and up through bulge and then long technical wall to under small overlap. Left under this then continue up short corner and wall above to semi hanging belay at tiny ledge. 15ish bolts.

5. 18m (20) Left up ramp and then reachy wall trending right to major shale ledge. Traverse 8m right (reversing the Thomson Traverse) to belay at double RB (where you rapped in from).

6. 30m (25) Little undercut rooflet to start then long grey wall about 10m right of I Have A Dream, finishing at anchors under small overlap. Lower-off back to ledge and walk off home. 12 bolts.

Some call this overhung crack splitting an amphitheatre the best multi-pitch trad route in the Blue Mountains. Every pitch is great and the access is surprisingly easy. It is however quite difficult to retreat once a couple of pitches off the deck due to the steepness. Bring prussics! This route was originally climbed ground up with an overnight bivy on one of the small ledges and with several sections of aid. Recent rebolting of the original aid bolts ladders has reduced the original bolt count by at least 3 - it's more airy but the bolts are better!

Access via the rap route described separately.

Double rack of cams, micros to Camalot #4, a single set of wires, #2 RP up, and 5 bolt plates does the trick.

1. 15m (19) The first 5m or so have average rock quality (1 carrot) then onto the slab with polished hard sandstone and RP seam. Ignore TBB below cramped little rooflet, and climb to DBB up and left with spacious foot ledge. Don't let the RPs scare you - it's not very hard.

2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start past two RBs, right along break to rejoin the crack line and up into chimney, then steep cracks. Belay from good ledge on bolt and medium cams and wires.

3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in splitter layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance (RB, trad).

4. 35m (22) The corner on good gear using crack and face holds. At a carrot at 3/4 height move up right (optional #4 Camalot in break) to thin flake and 2nd carrot, a sling on this second carrot keeps the rope from jamming in the flake. Climb to small ledge and then to ledge with short corner above. Tricky moves past one more carrot leads to big ledge and DBB. 4a. 8m (23) up the corner, traverse R to arête, up arête (one BR then a runout), to rejoin the original for its final two bolts. Lots of fragile rock (and exposure) on this pitch. Prussics!).

5. 25m (22) This would be a good rap-in and climb-out pitch in its own right if you aren't up for the rest. Follow left leaning crack until it peters out, step right then up scoop to fragile short headwall with 2 carrots. Take care mantling the grass and dirt slope (yum) and on the 10m scramble up to path. DBB.

6. 20m (22) The left side of the arête above the cave on Lunch Ledge (4m left of the bolted routes). Bold runout start off rock ledge with a key thread at 4m then easier and better protected above this. Most people skip this pitch and just walk off.

Climbs a great wall with an inspiring seam. Two awesome pitches, two nice ones and two easy chossy ones. Take 16 draws. Starts 30m right of Burgermiester, up a gully, below a left facing corner. It is possible to traverse left at belay 3 to escape, but you will need 3 bolt brackets.

1. 40m (22) Layback corner. 12 ubolts

2. 40m (25) Follow amazing seam to belay on right (the 2 belay rings are widely spaced due to hollow rock). Crux is at low roof.

3. 30m (21) Follow seam onto large ledge.

4. 30m (18) Easy choss, out left and back right to hanging belay.

5. 45m (23) Up sustained wall trending right. Very crimpy!

6. 10m (10) Up easy ground past a UB to ledge.

Obvious roof crack 5 metres right of Bunny Bucket’s pitch 6 start. Use the first 3 bolts of BBB’s pitch 6, climb up to ceiling and then traverse right (size 6 cam to protect) to enter the roof crack. Requires two 5s and one 6 size cams.

Climb easy face and finish at trad belay on obvious ledge (BD 2 and small wires).

Rope drag is manageable on a single rope with 1-2 roller carabiners and several long slings.

Rappel from trad anchor to clean face (60m rope is fine). Re-lead and then back clean roof and traverse.

A monster sport route, with great exposed arete climbing on every pitch bar one. If you want to do the full route, rap in via Mirrorball and walk along base of cliff past Bucket Bunny and Hotel California' You can also just climb the last 4 pitches if you rap in down Yesterday's Groove. Equipped on a rainy night, the bolts seemed too far apart in the light of day, thus 4 more were added after the first ascent! If it's been raining avoid this route for at least a few days as a temporary waterfall blows onto the arete at pitch 5. Bring 20 draws, prussics or an ascender, double ropes and enough time!

Start: Starts aprox 100m right of 'Hotel California' below major arete.

1. 15m (21) Little corner then right onto rounded arete. At ledge walk right and step across gap and up short chossy crack to belay under main arete.

2. 17m (25) Bouldery and powerful. 'Monkey' over roof and swing left across lip to gain arete. Up this to comfy belay ledge.

3. 29m (25) Up arete with devious moves for 15m, then traverse right onto face away from arete for several metres, then trend left back onto the arete at flake to finish. Bolts up the arete direct are an open project. Belay in large slot under roof.

4. 25m (23) Thug over roof and up aretes to belay on vegetated slope at DUB.

5. 50m (5) Scramble up hill side to 7m fixed rope. Hand over hand or prussic up this (rope was installed in 2010 - stay roped up and take care!) and continue up vegetated hillside to arrive at base of upper wall.

6. 35m (23) Face to major arete with offset seam on the right side. A pumper! Hanging belay in little cave.

7. 25m (22) Technical arete on small ironstone edges. Hanging bolt belay or link into the next pitch for full value!

8. 18m (22) Up the wall and then left to arete and up to large cave belay. A little bold. You can bail from the end of this pitch by scrambling up the gully to the left (roped).

9. 17m (24) Bouldery. Crawl right through cave and peer around lip to find hanging belay bolt. Re-position belay. Rightwards up face on crimpers, then back left up pumpy wall to easy death by ironstone.

Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established.

Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.

1. 30m (22) Start as for I Scream pitch 1 at wide sandy corner crack. At 2nd bolt step right (trad) and up steep flake crack, mostly on finger/small hand sized cams. One bolt when the flake gets wafer thin. Finish up wall on bomber micro cams. Belay on comfy ledge right of orange wall.

2. 20m (23) Stellar! Left across orange face to breach roof on left side. Up exposed techy arete to belay ledge. A sport pitch.

3. 20m (25) Stretch those calves and chalk those palms! Traverse left to stunning fused bridging corner that's lovingly cleaned to perfection. Four bolts then final finger crack on cams.

4. 15m (15) Easy juggy ironstone slab trending left. Belay on big vegetated ledge.

5. 35m (21) Surprisingly sustained face which looks like an ironstone jug haul from below. Bring three bolt hangers for the occasional random carrot.

Just left of Jingle Bells. A few thin moves once you get past half way.

Yet another roof climb from the house of Wishart. Hard climbing through the roof to the right of the tree rewards you with a somewhat relaxing paddle up the short headwall

Through thuggy roof and onto the wall. Move hard right (don't continue up the arete) and continue up the nice pumpy wall.

Hardish, give yourself 26 for the direct finish

Steep long boulder start to a hanging slab and some easier climbing to a ledge. Sweet, interesting moves from the half ledge to the top. Bolted on my 30th birthday.

Weird move to get started, hard at top of wall, then the crux in the roof.

Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall.

The far left hand edge of the cliff. Essentially a one sequence wonder with a tricky V4/V5 boulder problem crux in the middle. Clip the first bolt on "How Much is a Duck Worth" then move left and follow the line of bolts with increasing difficulty to the anchors.

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof. Pumpy as!

Ultra classic. Mostly superb jugs to a rest just before the redpoint crux right at the end. Take a ticket!

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

middle of the wall. hardest near the start but keeps coming.

Up orange wall to the right of Little Black Duress.

Starts on the left side of the wall. Go, Go, Go. The pump really creeps up on this one.

Getting Barrelled's extension. Continues through the roof and finishes at Arch'a la Vista Baby's anchors.

Climbs the steep inside arête of the first cave.

Start as for CO/HP (initials marked) hard move up to slopey break, (#0.3 cam or find a long stick), then rings leading right through strenuous pocket traverse (Higher Purchase traverse) and straight up past nice flake to ledge then reachy moves with a steep finale. Bring 15 draws.

The ultimate face-climbing testpiece up an improbably blank wall. Consider bringing a #0.5 or #0.75 for the runout at mid-height.

"The climb boasts a complicated history of aid elimination. On the first ascent two rests were used on the section above the horizontal break, one under the roof and one on the flake above. The stoic leader then bolted up the final short headwall in driving rain to the top. Though he did the climb in one pitch he went to the trouble of establishing a hanging belay station below the bolt ladder. This was done for the benefit of future parties who might attempt a free ascent using the belay as a much needed rest. Mike Law made the second ascent and managed to lead the first pitch completely free but left the grade at 23. A month or so later Warwick Baird did a free ascent of the whole climb though he did break the route into 2 pitches. A few weeks later he made an attempt to lead the climb completely free in one pitch but fell 4m from the top when a hold broke. The following weekend he returned again and finally managed the task that had eluded him on previous attempts. "The climb now stands as the hardest and most sustained lead in the Blue Mountains" (May 1981). Mark Baker added the direct bit over the flake.

Incipient crack 5m right of K&Q.

Fantastic route! Start as for Toyland but instead of traversing along the overlapping flake, push straight upwards towards the anchors. Now the preferred version. There is potential for a small wire to be placed in between the second and third bolts to stop a probable ground fall off not inconsequential moves, it seems the placement is tricky to spot though.

On the headwall above Candy Man. Carrots.

Start as for SoF. Up flake trending right to 3rd bolt (optional #2 cam in a break down low), then break left and up the face through overlap and roof. 2 x carrot anchor on ledge at the top.

Start about halfway down the ramp. Hard start then stella edge climbing with a big reach down low, keep on pushing hard moves and decent recovery holds. Fixed Hangers. Single ring lower off. Consider a 0.5 and/or 0.3 cam for the runout at the tippy top.

Hard! Old bolts don't look very good. Start: 2m right of MD.

Great! Do all 3 pitches!

1. 40m (25) - Only the first pitch has new bolts, first anchor only for cleaning if your rope is shorter then 70m

2. 20m (20)

3. 45m (22)

Start is marked "GA", left of 'The Five Forty Five' Mikl was and IS a genius but clipping the rotating 'hanger' on the slab below the roof used to require as much energy as it took to do the climb! A new reachable bolt has been added under the roof but the first ring needs to be removed. Fully rebolted 2016.

Now with its own punchy direct start right of 'Locomotion'. Finish at first anchor or for the full tick finish up either 'Locomotion' or 'Edward Chiselhands'. 20m to the first anchor or ~45m to either the GA or Locomotion anchors. New bolts 2016.

Start right of TT initials. Fun 24 to first anchor (25m) or continue past drilled holds to the top for a hard 25.

A superior version of an old Giles 22m1, now starting from the ground with a bizarre opening sequence. Rest up through the middle sections and brace for the thin top crux.

The line of most scoops. An anchor has appeared at some point, no cleaning off a single bolt is required.

Hand on top, jump and lower off last ring. Looks much harder then the stated grade and has a suspect looking bolt.

Up the 'Arete' on Carrots

Start: 5m right of INOUTFLS

Steep start, follow the corner then up.

Start on top of boulder as for Dictator in a Deerstalker but step immediately right, then up.

Follow closed seam/crack up steep wall. Start at left hand end of the wall.