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Moses Rocks Guide

  CLÁSICA 69%   BÚLDER 19%   DESCONOCIDO 9%   DEPORTIVA 1%

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Michael B Rob Walker Andy Stys Will Zhangter P James Capener Philip C David Scott Chris

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Moses Rocks 81 routes in Crag

1 9 2 3 4 5 8 7 6
1 Northern Blocks 2 Red Wall 3 Blake's Block 4 Hands Up Wall 5 Freddy's Zawn 6 Sand Blast Wall 7 Rumpole's Rock 8 Castle in the Sand bloc 9 The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
Summary:
E
F
M
A
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Estacionalidad

Escalada clásica, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -33.777917, 114.993973

descripción

Short climbs from 6m to 15m. Grades range from 10 through to 21.

Check http://www.climberswa.asn.au/PDF/Moses_Rocks_Jan_2012.pdf for a guide.

Acceso

The crag is approx 260km drive from Perth and forms the headland just north of and visible from Willyabrup Cliffs.

Head towards Margaret River on the Bussell Highway. Approx 18km after the roundabout at Vasse Newtown turn right onto Metricup Road and when this ends turn right onto Caves Road. After 3km turn left onto Moses Rock Road which is followed for 3.5km, at the T junction turn left where the road turns to a gravel surface usually horribly corrugated. Where the road descends towards the beach it becomes sealed again all the way to the car park, at which there are no facilities.

Moses Rocks comprises six areas which are a short 10min stroll from the car park, heading south.

Historia

The first routes at Moses Rocks were recorded in 1987 and by 1990 it seemed activity at this crag was exhausted, however in recent years a number of good lines have been established. The earlier routes were last listed in Margaret River Rock (1996), which has been out of print for some time and is hard to come by. This mini-guide has been developed to continue to allow everyone access to the knowledge of the area and to record the more recently developed climbs.

1.1. Northern Blocks 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -33.777079, 114.993941

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mansfield's Motion 13 Clásica 8m
2 ★ Kami-kaze Catfish 20 Clásica 8m
3 Morning Stretch 15 Clásica 6m
4 The Plough 18 Clásica 7m
5 Hathersage 15 Clásica 8m
6 Stanage Youth 13 Clásica 8m
7 Drop The Donk 8 Clásica 6m
8 ★★ Classical Thrash 15 Desconocido 10m
9 Easy Listening 8 Desconocido 10m
10 Pathetic Sharks 10 Clásica 10m
11 Hungry Fish 10 Clásica 10m
12 Seaside Solo 8 Clásica 10m
13 Spoilt Bastard 20 Desconocido 7m

1.2. Red Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -33.777261, 114.993910

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RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★ Chow Down 17 Clásica 8m
2 ★ Body Belches 23 Clásica mixta 9m, 1
3 Pickup 17 Clásica 6m
4 Hickup 16 Clásica 9m

1.3. Blake's Block 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -33.777358, 114.993831

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Follyfoot Solos 8 Clásica 4m
2 Thundering Hooves 9 Clásica 4m
3 Blake and the Thoroughbreds 12 Clásica 5m
4 ★ Mini Thor 13 Clásica 5m

1.4. Hands Up Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -33.777839, 114.994108

Resumen

Perfect intro to the joys of granite sea cliff climbing

descripción

Solid and compact granite. Offers great friction with horizontal breaks and the occasional crack, though often with rounded holds

All bolts are carrots so BYOB (bring your own bolt-plates)

Acceso

Walk south for about 800m from the car park and you have turned left at the tee intersection from Moses rock road. 2wd access no problem

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RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Obsurity Knocks 21 Clásica 5m
2 Backdoor 16 Clásica 5m
3 ★★ Pink and Purple 12 Clásica 6m
4 Pink Licker 8 Clásica 6m
5 ★ Kiddies Corner 10 Clásica 8m
6 ★★ Cornish Nasty 18 Clásica 15m
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RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ★ Victor and His Boa Constrictor 17 Clásica mixta 16m, 1
8 ★★ Twist Till You Lock

PA: F A Tyson, 1989

21 Deportiva 16m, 4
9 ★★ Wheely Things

PA: hart, 1989

15 Clásica 15m
10 ★★ Fat Slags 19 Clásica mixta 15m, 3
11 ★ Johnny Fartpants

PA: tyson, 1989

18 Clásica mixta 15m, 2
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RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 ★ Hands Up 15 Clásica 14m
13 ★ Gothic Streak 15 Clásica 13m
14 ★★ Many Hands 14 Clásica 10m
15 ★ Buster Gonads 18 Clásica mixta 10m, 1
16 Billy The Fish 20 Clásica mixta 11m, 1
17 ★ Hard Hands 8 Clásica 6m
18 No Hands 4 Clásica 4m

1.5. Freddy's Zawn 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -33.777913, 114.994194

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 After the Horse Has Bolted 13 Clásica 10m
2 Hallucinations 16 Clásica 10m
3 The Beach 16 Clásica 10m
4 Dreamweaver 15 Clásica 10m
5 Broken Surf 10 Clásica 15m
6 Um Um 10 Desconocido 15m
7 ★ Freddy's Bidet 11 Desconocido 15m
8 Wetting Thy Pants 13 Desconocido 15m
9 A Wet Dream on Elm Street 13 Desconocido 10m
10 Freddy Kruger's Claws 10 Desconocido 10m
11 Frontpage 12 Clásica 10m

1.6. Sand Blast Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -33.778953, 114.994227

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tweedle Dee 11 Clásica 6m
2 Tweedle Dum 12 Clásica 6m
3 Dee Dum 10 Clásica 6m

1.7. Rumpole's Rock 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -33.778921, 114.994279

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rude Awakening 17 Clásica 6m
2 Rarely Wild 14 Clásica 18m
3 Hexed 15 Clásica 15m
4 Burning Both Ends 17 Clásica 20m
5 Yogurt 14 Clásica 15m
6 Hot And Spicy 11 Clásica 20m
7 ★ Chillies and Garlic 16 Clásica 22m
8 ★ Jugs Galore 14 Clásica 15m
9 Square Cut 17 Clásica 15m
10 No Spinach for Popeye 16 Clásica 22m
11 Olive Oil 16 Clásica 20m
12 Finger Licking 16 Clásica 15m

1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -33.778878, 114.994221

descripción

The striking rock at Moses Rock makes for some fantastic bouldering by the sea. The Castles in the Sand Bloc area is home to a host of boulders with the characteristic streaked appearance of Moses Rock. The Castles bloc is located at the base of the cliffs in a small area just in from the sea.

Acceso

On Moses Rock Rd take a left and park at the end of the road (it will become unsealed for a short section then is sealed again in the parking area) - this is manageable for all vehicles. Walk along the beach near the vegetation until you reach a path leading left up the hill (before the rocky outcrops start). Follow this up and right. You will reach an intersection with a 4WD track, take a right here and descend to the base of the sea cliffs. The boulders are fairly obvious from here.

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RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★★★ Castle in the Sand, Right

Sit start and trend up the right arete. https://vimeo.com/121590460

PA: Andy Lampard

V7 Búlder 4m
2 ★★★ Castle in the Sand, Left

Sit start and trend left with awesome cross through and heel hooks. https://vimeo.com/121590460 Left jugs are in. However - eliminating the jugs out left makes for a fun and slightly harder sequence, clocking in at solid V7

PA: Andy Lampard

V7 Búlder 4m
3 ★★★ humphead wrasse bloc 1

Start on chalked up holds under the boulder and bust out to the obvious flake. Traverse rightward to a dicey finish as the landing runs out. Hard, proud line.

 Búlder
4 ★★★ humphead wrasse bloc 2

Take a left exit from the flake. Could go - not sure if it has been done yet, but there are enough holds to make it seem possible...

 Búlder
5 ★ Warm ups

Well featured faces opposite the humphead wrasse bloc.

V0 Búlder
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6 Crack Traverse

traverse the obvious crack out then up. Cool. Mind your dab on the big rock behind you in the middle.

 Búlder

1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering) 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -33.777299, 114.993918

descripción

The main area of bouldering. About 30-40 problems I know of... been a while so can't really remember them all, maybe will add the rest if I head out there again. Lots of good easy problems with comfortable slopers and some highballs (some done as routes previously??)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ★★ Pickles

Sit start. Up with the obvious seam into an easy top.

PA: Andy Lampard

V2 Búlder
2 Wave Roof

Start deep in the roof. Up into a committing finish.

PA: Andy Lampard

 Búlder
3 ★ The Egg

Sit start on the left. Follow the seam rightwards then into a slopey topout.

PA: Andy Lampard

V4 Búlder
4 ★ Honeycombs warm up left

Sit start. Up trending left into a high but easy finish.

V1 Búlder
5 ★★ Honeycombs warm up right

Sit start. Up trending right.

V0 - 1 Búlder
6 ★★★ Slopes and a blind lob

Hard and tensiony.

PA: Andy Lampard

 Búlder
7 ★★★ The Favourite

Lying down start with slopey holds. Up with awesome moves. Amazing exposure. https://youtu.be/fKqlwJww5Rk?t=200

PA: Andy Lampard

V7 Búlder 4m
8 ★★★ Beetmato

Sit start. Up using the slopey holds. Rad.

V4/5 Búlder 4m
9 ★ Slab left

Sit. A bit trickier.

V1 Búlder
10 ★ Slab right

Stand start. Nice and easy

V0 Búlder
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2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
4 No Hands Clásica 4m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
8 Drop The Donk Clásica 6m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Easy Listening Desconocido 10m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Seaside Solo Clásica 10m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Follyfoot Solos Clásica 4m 1.3. Blake's Block
★ Hard Hands Clásica 6m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
Pink Licker Clásica 6m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
9 Thundering Hooves Clásica 4m 1.3. Blake's Block
10 Hungry Fish Clásica 10m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Pathetic Sharks Clásica 10m 1.1. Northern Blocks
★ Kiddies Corner Clásica 8m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
Broken Surf Clásica 15m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Freddy Kruger's Claws Desconocido 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Um Um Desconocido 15m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Dee Dum Clásica 6m 1.6. Sand Blast Wall
11 ★ Freddy's Bidet Desconocido 15m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Tweedle Dee Clásica 6m 1.6. Sand Blast Wall
Hot And Spicy Clásica 20m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
12 Blake and the Thoroughbreds Clásica 5m 1.3. Blake's Block
★★ Pink and Purple Clásica 6m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
Frontpage Clásica 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Tweedle Dum Clásica 6m 1.6. Sand Blast Wall
13 Mansfield's Motion Clásica 8m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Stanage Youth Clásica 8m 1.1. Northern Blocks
★ Mini Thor Clásica 5m 1.3. Blake's Block
A Wet Dream on Elm Street Desconocido 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
After the Horse Has Bolted Clásica 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Wetting Thy Pants Desconocido 15m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
14 ★★ Many Hands Clásica 10m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
★ Jugs Galore Clásica 15m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
Rarely Wild Clásica 18m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
Yogurt Clásica 15m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
15 ★★ Classical Thrash Desconocido 10m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Hathersage Clásica 8m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Morning Stretch Clásica 6m 1.1. Northern Blocks
★ Gothic Streak Clásica 13m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
★ Hands Up Clásica 14m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
★★ Wheely Things Clásica 15m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
Dreamweaver Clásica 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
Hexed Clásica 15m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
V0 ★ Warm ups Búlder 1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc
★ Slab right Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
16 Hickup Clásica 9m 1.2. Red Wall
Backdoor Clásica 5m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
Hallucinations Clásica 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
The Beach Clásica 10m 1.5. Freddy's Zawn
★ Chillies and Garlic Clásica 22m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
Finger Licking Clásica 15m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
No Spinach for Popeye Clásica 22m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
Olive Oil Clásica 20m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
17 ★ Chow Down Clásica 8m 1.2. Red Wall
Pickup Clásica 6m 1.2. Red Wall
★ Victor and His Boa Constrictor Clásica mixta 16m, 1 1.4. Hands Up Wall
Burning Both Ends Clásica 20m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
Rude Awakening Clásica 6m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
Square Cut Clásica 15m 1.7. Rumpole's Rock
18 The Plough Clásica 7m 1.1. Northern Blocks
★ Buster Gonads Clásica mixta 10m, 1 1.4. Hands Up Wall
★★ Cornish Nasty Clásica 15m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
★ Johnny Fartpants Clásica mixta 15m, 2 1.4. Hands Up Wall
19 ★★ Fat Slags Clásica mixta 15m, 3 1.4. Hands Up Wall
V0 - 1 ★★ Honeycombs warm up right Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
V1 ★ Honeycombs warm up left Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
★ Slab left Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
20 ★ Kami-kaze Catfish Clásica 8m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Spoilt Bastard Desconocido 7m 1.1. Northern Blocks
Billy The Fish Clásica mixta 11m, 1 1.4. Hands Up Wall
V2 ★★ Pickles Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
21 Obsurity Knocks Clásica 5m 1.4. Hands Up Wall
★★ Twist Till You Lock Deportiva 16m, 4 1.4. Hands Up Wall
23 ★ Body Belches Clásica mixta 9m, 1 1.2. Red Wall
V4 ★ The Egg Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
V4 to V5 ★★★ Beetmato Búlder 4m 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
V7 ★★★ Castle in the Sand, Left Búlder 4m 1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc
★★★ Castle in the Sand, Right Búlder 4m 1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc
★★★ The Favourite Búlder 4m 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
? Crack Traverse Búlder 1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc
★★★ humphead wrasse bloc 1 Búlder 1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc
★★★ humphead wrasse bloc 2 Búlder 1.8. Castle in the Sand bloc
★★★ Slopes and a blind lob Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
Wave Roof Búlder 1.9. The Honeycombs (Bouldering)
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