Ascensiones en Flying Buttress

My first climb at the Moon

Just climbed the first pitch to the rap anchors! Really enjoyed this!

Cool climbing through some interesting holds. First 2 bolts are looking a bit old!

Thought this was really cool. Long and sustained, and a cool corner.

Led P1, second P2. Awesome, steep, 3-dimensional face climbing with several good knee bar or body jam rest opportunities. Micro cams very useful, and nothing bigger than BD #2 needed. P2 harder than P1, probably around grade 18, though just a week protected one move wonder. If doing P2, belay up on ledge, not at rap anchor.

High first bolt (trad gear in Vortex with long slings helps), them steep, Punit moves through to 3rd bolt. Seems easier closer to arete. Good rest after 3rd bolt then easier above. Long way but very easy from final bolt to anchors, with an optional 120cm sling around a horn along the way.

sandbags, anyone?

Led all pitches. Definitely sandbagged at 15 - more like grade 17 P2 and grade 16 P3. Starts 20-30m off the ground, and best approached from left if roping up, or from the right (up the start of Ultion to horizontal break) if soloing. P2 crux is a thrutchy roof crack with hand hands in the back. P3 crux is committing jug hauling. Cams up to BD #3 necessary, with multiple #2 good for P2 crux. A BD #5 would ease the commitment factor of the P3 crux.

Direct

First route at the Moon. My most memorable moment would have to be hearing Chris yell "I just had an orgasm" while leading the second pitch and the hippies hearing us while climbing Pagoda. The direct finish is the way to go. Cut loose if you're feeling bold.

First climb for our holiday. Such a perfect looking line that grabs you as you arrive at the bbase of the cliff.... its just the obvious one to do first. Went through the three roofs!

Interesting steep climbing, found a knee bar Gear not always as good as you'd think.

Burly pump fest through funky scoops.

this one was a proper fight!

Reeally enjoyed this!

Led P2, great route to finish the Moonarie trip on.

Pitch 1 only. Awesome!

With Rob. The dodgy elbow complained vigourously. I didnt though.

With Rob. The dodgy elbow complained vigourously. I didnt though.

With Rob and Simon. First route at Moonarie, off the couch,dodgy elbow and all. And I LOVE it

With Rob and Simon. First route at Moonarie, off the couch,dodgy elbow and all. And I LOVE it

Very exposed for a 15

Welcome to Moonarie!! Exposure, moves, position...Awesome!

Finished in the rain

Great! Position, rock, moves, atmosphere. A couple of old school sections. Really worthwhile

A bit on an epic. The 'scramble' off the back of the cliff is more of a climb than half the routes at Mori!! Roped that.

Great fun. Finished in the dark (but knew we were going to, had torches.) Unsure about best location for the second belay.

Finished in the dark, which made scrambling off the top interesting. We may have roped up to get off the summit if we had seen the exposure.

Pitch 1 only. Anna Brooks led.

Pitch one only. A soft 19.

Led 1.5 pitches straight through to the Chains on Ultion. Classy climbing, although my move through the crux roof was anything but.