Vías en South West Slopes pa entre 1998-00-00 y 2030-12-31

A fantastic outing up some great quality granite with something for everyone. Increases in difficulty as you go higher, and its possible to enjoy an easier day by abseiling off when it gets too hard. All belay stations are DBB with rap rings. Pitch 4 has 11 bolts (the most), so you'll need at least that many draws. Take a few cams (small to medium) to supplement bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches. Starts at a prominent black streak where the walking track hits the cliff, ~ 15 m left of the waterfall. After heavy rain, the first 3 pitches turn into a waterfall, leaving the rock beautifully polished as a result!

1. 25m (12). Cruise up the black streak to a comfy belay ledge.

2. 20m (15). Follow a series of flakes to the crux move to reach the next ledge. There is often a decent sized puddle underneath the DBB - this pitch can easily be linked into P3 to avoid hanging out in it if you use a few extenders.

3. 20m (16). Move up and right on the large flake, before technical and tricky moves back left to follow the main crack line to the ledge. A medium cam or two can be used in this crack to supplement the two bolts, but are not necessary for safety. There is a variation approximately 5 m left of the start (separate DBB and first bolt) that may not have been finished?

4. 40m (19). Climb the spine and corner off the left side of the belay ledge before stepping right up the flake and corner. The crux bulge here can be backed up with a cam/medium nut (advised). Continue up the ramp and follow the bolts up a seam and slab to a big ledge.

5. 20m (20). Step up and right around the base of the steep prow onto the slab. Traverse diagonally right and then follow the flakes and cracks up the wall to the top.

No Time for Dreaming pitch 4 variation. From belay ledge, climb right following bolts through under cling, up onto slab, into finger crack (small cams), then continue up slab to anchors as for NTFD. Can stay wet when the rest of the route is dry.

About 50 R of the waterfall is a L leading line leading up into the gully. Up this and then try working out a way of getting down - not classic and the same tells a story.

Approximately 50 metres beyond, and level with the beginning of 'The Garden' climb. (Just past the gully that gives access to the top of the cliffs)

Sit start with both hands in low finger crack - bust a move then cruise to the top.

Start on jug of BiB, traverse across, up, then powerfully down to finish up right arete.

Easy up face

Low sit start on right arete using tiny sidepull. Up, slightly left, and up.

Easy up slabby jagged crack

Start with good hands on slab left of Rabbit, Run, easily up.

Start on low decent holds with careful spotting, feet out left. Up powerfully left to crack or sloper, then position yourself to escape up and right following sidepull crack. Great moves! Maybe V2?

Up short but interesting corner.

Climb up the jugs

Climb up the crack

Sit Start matched in the obvious hueco. Big throw up and right, then traverse the lip left topping out at the highest point of the prow.

Sit start with hands matched on obvious good edge. Straight up from there with good feet Tiny crimps

Lay back the crack from a sitstart. Top out

Sit start. Hard compression moves and heel hooking from there