Vías en New South Wales and ACT pa entre 1998-00-00 y 2030-12-31

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger.

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height.

Instead of climbing the crack/corner of Urban Villain climb directly up the slab, passing three FH's below the crux.

Tricky boulder in the middle then through roof. 8 FH's to lower off at top of cliff.

Slab (2 FH’s) to easy L traverse. Up with big moves (3 FHs) to thinky exit R. One of the least steep routes at the crag.

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor. A grade or 2 harder now after broken holds **

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

2m R. 7 FH’s to anchors. Some nice bouldery pulls with crux up top.

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

A large traversing line. First three bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

Open Project! The direct start to Hot Sex. Start 5m R up 3 FH’s, jump start into a slab dyno. Red tag on first FH.

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.

2m R. More steepness with some very big moves and a challenging and spectacular finale past the break. Was impressively onsighted in its original form but has since shed a major hold down low and is a bit harder. It has now shed a lot more holds and it will need some work before it is solid again

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

5m R. Scramble up to high first bolt on far right of the choss ledge. A few bolts lead up and R (slab) until it kicks back. A long move to a flake begins the steep climbing. A pronounced crux lunge (stopper bloc?) leaves you with the last victory move to finishing jug.

2m R. Just R of the overhung barrel. This route wanders up the slab, trending R before picking through a steeper section searching for good holds. About 9 FH’s to anchors. Very chossy.

Starts on the ledge. Walk 10m R of previous route (around rocks) and scramble up a chute onto the ledge. Start up short black corner then climbs blocky orange and grey rock.

Starts on the ground 2m R from Bollox. 8 FH’s. Crux move in the middle.

Stay off until properly cleaned - mid section still extremely chossy. Crux high up on good rock.

A memorial for the man himself. Trending up and right through the overlaps. Five permadraws, then take your own.

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

Two-headed monster with one head of lion, and other of a goat, lion claws in front and goat legs behind, and a long snake tail. Easiest route on the wall so far. White slab start, then up a near-vertical orange wall to major R-facing corner. Climb the wall right of the corner, place one metre sling, then stem out left and through the roof above to ledge. An easy romp for 10m, then she’s steep, all the way to the anchors.

Typhon was the largest and most fearsome of all creatures. His human upper half reached as high as the stars, and his hands reached east and west. Instead of a human head, a hundred dragon heads erupted from his neck and shoulders. 5m R. Up easy start just left of the platform, then orange wall, and steepness above. The finale through a steep little bulge is a heartbreaker.

A creature with the body, tail, and back legs of a lion; the head and wings of an eagle; and an eagle's talons as its front feet. 5m R. Up past bolt onto large platform at 5m. Up a balancy slab for 15m to ledge below the steepness. Now comes a series of punchy steep sections interspersed with good rests. The finale, traversing above the sucking void is particularly exciting.

Behemoth is a beast mentioned in Job 40:15–24. The name has come to be used for any extremely large or powerful entity. 4m R. Stickclip first high bolt, but start waaay to the left up a vague ramp. Easy climbing up a corner, then smooth face to a sit down rest ledge (cave). Exit left out of this, and then - hold on to your hat! Super crazy amazing. Difficult to grade this endurance pitch.

Liwyāṯān is a sea monster referenced in the Old Testament. The word has become synonymous with any large sea monster or creature. Climb as for Bohemoth to cave. Exit out the right edge of the cave, then 8 bolts of gradually steepening climbing to pull onto a rest ledge below final headwall arete. A seriously fierce boulder section on pockets past two bolts guards the anchors. The hardest moves on the wall.

The two-legged dragon with barbed tail, often seen as a symbol of strength and endurance. 10m R. Starts roughly in the middle of the wall, under the steepest looking section up high. Stickclip the first bolt for the tricky start, then it backs off for quite some time. At the point it becomes overhanging and you’ll jug haul through to a welcome camp in a cave where you can take your shoes off and ponder the view (24 to here?). From here, it’s all business pulling through the lip and into the superb stone of the 45 degree, powerful overhanging finale where you’ll either have some arms left, or not. 19 FH’s (long draws) to lower-off. Lowering off the top requires 80m rope. When it comes to cleaning, do it in two halves (chain+biner in cave).

Tricky little start into R-facing corner feature. Exit stage left onto short choss wall before mantling into large circular cave with lower-off. Not great by itself - the best is up above.

Keep going! Directly up from cave to pull through a bulge onto a ledge. Clip long perma-sling, then up into the base of the stunning corner with perfect rock. Stem to glory. 16 FH’s to anchors.

2m R. Stem off the boulder L past the bolt. Up the smooth tricky slab and then oodles of climbing which eventually runs into the multifaceted overhung corners just left of the big fig tree stump 30m up (steep!). The very top, up a runnel feature is super cool. The route features a number of tricky sections interspersed with good rests. May be on the easy side for 26 but I doubt there’ll be too many complaints.

The giant tree. Tricky slab start, then onwards past lots of climbing and rests to get established in a rest below the punchy final overhang. Hard to read moves. Solid.

For those who stop halfway. Cthulhu will eat your children.

A large cephalopod-like creature with a tentacled mouth, large wings, clawed hands and scaly skin. Starting at the tree seat. Climbs the orange rock through a bulge. Standard Crossroads wall climbing through bulges takes you beyond the half height anchor to a sit-down rest. Out of here the line snakes right and left - long slings will reduce drag. The final section pits you against an arete you must cross left to right. A very interesting assortment of moves and several very good rests to keep things sane. Take 23 quickdraws.

A fearsome giant with one body and three heads. He owned Orthrus. Start is just to the right of Cthulhu. Climb up the slab to a roof and pull through a minor crux then solid steep moves to the top.

The white wall just right of fig tree roots. R-trending line up slab. As it steepens at about the 20m mark, there is a section which deviates 2m L to avoid a loose patch. Then, a tricky roof to negotiate on the orange rock, then steeply through blocky black overhang. Pumpy, with surprising incuts and jugs.

The monstrous hound Garm guards the entrance to Helheim, the Norse realm of the dead. 2m R. Another R-trending line. Stickclip, because it’s tricky just getting off the ground. Put a 1m sling on second bolt, and step R. Like Monster, you have a roof to pull at half height, but it’s a bit easier.

Halfway anchors to aid in lowering off route with shorter ropes (60m rope is absolute minimum, 70m recommended). some valuable climbing in the lower half of the route but the top is where da party's at.

Closed.

Caution to be taken for the first two bolts. Recommend stick clipping the first (& potentially second). Tricky getting established on the wall, trend right after clipping the second, up the ledges & jugs. some cool moves & some gentle choss pulling as you move higher up the wall to mid-way anchors. Pass anchor to the overhung & airy top section with typical Crossroads mantles on good rock. Crux before the final slab, and glory-romp to anchors (double rings in roof). Intimidating!

Closed. 5m R of Garm at black corner crack. The rippled top arete is amazing with a heartbreaker finale! Take a handful of 1m slings to reduce drag. At least 20 clips.

Located left of Giant at black slab with low first bolt. Another difficult slab start leads up to the ledge. Grade 22 climbing for most of the way, until things start to steepen with a tricky crux in a clean corner where your arms begin to tire. Keep it together to negotiate the arete to corner-transition finale.

“Five cruxes!” Starts 4m R at black slab with tree against cliff. Tree can be climbed to pre-clip first bolt before starting from ground. Good solid rock the whole way with at least 15 quickdraws and a go-for-it attitude required. 70m rope might work - tie a stopper or use an 80m.

The frost giant. As the ground starts to rise there is a flat belay platform. Route goes up the easy black corner above this, and then past a major L-facing corner (awesome) and through a series of bulgy roofs. The top roof move is blind - good luck! Take at least three long slings to reduce drag. Probably 25, lol.

The god of death and the king of the Fomorians (a race of giants). Scramble up on stacked blocks to reach first bolt on black slab above. Slab to ledge, then through a steeper bit to another ledge and super quality shield of perfect stone. Tricky moves to breach this, then up to a technical mantle to below the upper steepness. Then, up.

A monstrous wolf. Start as for Balor to get on top of the stacked blocks, then wander 5m R to first bolt. Up black slab past four bolts to the gently overhung streaky black wall. Nice sporty moves up this to typical Crossroads mantle out. More varied climbing including a no holds mantle, and then steep jugging with a punchy finale. Good fun!

R-leaning crackline and arete. Some tricky moments passing the first bolt.

Starting from the top of the saddle. Anchor shared with JVTV.

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

The ‘bolt before the pub closes’ route. Stickclip for the boulder problem start, like all routes on this wall. Scoopy black awesomeness. Sensational! FH’s.

The best piece of stone on the wall. Vertical, pure technicality with a brick hard crux traverse. Channel your favourite 80s sport climbing hero, and remember to vulcanize. Ringbolts.

High first U-bolt on dark rock (stickclip off block). Fierce moves off the deck give a brief rest before fingerlock crux above bolt four. Continuous, R-leaning climbing past another eight bolts to lower off. Climbed on the famous 41 degree day.

5m R. Climb on to pointy boulder to start and clip first bolt, then up past the jutty-outty block feature (surprisingly technical). Cool climbing on great rock with a no-holds-barred wrestle crux through the bulge. 12 bolts to lower-off.

Careful on loose but easy corner for 10m. Then interesting moves with hidden holds on good rock. 9 FHs to shared anchor with Pyroclastic. Good, but a bit runout and ledgy, take care.

Up past a few bolts to perch beneath roof overlap. Inventive moves to get over this before stepping right to encounter balancy Frog Buttress-style face climbing to the top.

4m R. The big corner with glue-in rings. Large R-leaning open book corner (some shattered rock), then left. Top crux will have you thinking. Crazy pockets up top are worth experiencing.

Up the initial deep V-gully to start from pointy pillar against the cliff. FH’s lead of R-trending corner. A delicate move left, then back R and up tricky headwall.

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

Start at the black brain rock under a bulgy, juggy overhang. Pull through and march up the slab. At the 8th FH, you’ll see PTY branch off to the left (don't). Head straight up with some more thoughtful climbing on good rock. Two more bolts to anchors. Don’t extend the anchor. 10 FH’s. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

As above, but split off left at the 8th FH up onto ledge for anchors. Belay from big ledge in canyon. 9 FH’s.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

A big, bad beast of a route with an air of serious about it. Nary a straight-down pull on the pitch, it’s all pushing, laybacking, gastons and bridging. Loose in a few spots (robbing it of that elusive third star), but it’s cleaning up, and provides for some amazing climbing. Take about 15 draws. PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

Open Project. Shared start with DDA. Fully bolted but needs some removal of loose rock. Continues up right leaning flake from the 4th bolt of DDA.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thank you

A crowd pleaser. 6m R. Unusual knobby slab to lower off 5m below the big half-height cave. 8 FH’s.PLEASE NOTE: all routes right of the Huge Chimney off limits during Falcon season (AUGUST-DECEMBER) Thankyou

Crazy Moon 240m 18

1. 40m 13 Hard start moves lead to easy angled slab. Straight up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

2. 40m 18 Up slight groove in slab 15m right of right facing vegetated corner. Knifeblade at 5m, then trend right through hard unprotected moves to more gear in narrow vertical crack. Continue straight up before traversing left to base of left facing corner and fig belay.

3. 10m 15 Left facing corner capped by vegetated crack. Block belay.

4. 55m 18 Traverse right to hanging block (fixed piton) then up run out slab to horizontal overlap. Trend left to belay at left land side of 2m high roof.

5. 45m 17 Step left and up left facing corner then out left onto slab. Up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

6. 50m 17 Left to arete on right side of ephemeral waterfall. Up clean rock until possible to step right onto right leaning slab. Trend right past loose blocks to ledge and spear lilly belay. At this point the good climbing ends and best option would be to rap to eastern side of watercourse and descend via gully. If summit fever calls, the following 2 pitches get you to the top. A cleaner option would be to head left across the watercourse, through a spear lilly ledge to nice looking slabs. It looked possible to thread a line through some scattered spear lillys to the top.

7. 60m V2 (V is a proposed vegetation grade) Trend right through steep spear lilly horror show to belay beneath next rock.

8. 30m 12 Over unprotected rock buttress to vegetated niche then trend right on slab to ridge. At this point you are on the ridge that forms the eastern end of the Wollumbin Shield. A narrow ridge with bits of scrub and rock lead for about 250m to the ridgetop. Follow upper ridge to descent gully to west.

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

1. 7 - The approach slabs and traverse to get to the climb proper.

2. 24 - perhaps, hard mantling layaway using small arete and footer under roof to gain a respite on a decent ledge for a rest before launching up through a series of right leaning overhung handcrack breaks and bulges. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

3. 16 - slab to spear lilly belay, start off from the top of pitch 2 and go left around and underneath the spear lilly belay hanging blocks.

4. 25 - Start from spear lilly belay, head right up and across slab into the obvious corner, reach out for a fabulous jug on the mantle ledge, swing up onto ledge from whence the hard small traverse left starts, clip bolt and then continue left to establish oneself in obvious crack, up directly to belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

5. 20 - From belay trend left up blocky ramp being careful not to get sucked in too far left, continue up through the first easy system and then back to the right to find 2 widely spaced bolts, equalise these for a killer belay to observe the shenanigans of the roof coming up next.

6. 23 - Clip the high bolt of the belay before dropping down low and plugging a couple of aliens in out wide along the traverse line on almost non existent feet , drop a bit lower for good feet and then climb up directly under roof bolt. Yeah it`s goey hey, get on out there through that roof, campus up on rugositys to stand on the lip and then swim through the spear lilly to plug wide gear in crack behind lilly, continue up wide dirty crack to bomber anchor. Back this anchor up with a couple of cams as there is the distinct possibility of a climber falling direct on to this anchor due to the next section being so thin and poor gear direct off the belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

7. 24 - Work those aliens and wires in baby and hold on for the ride of your life fortunately this thin seam is not overhung unlike the hand crack which this seam leads to so test that gear bucko, continue up the overhung handcrack to where it blanks out to find yourself at a walrus ledge containing thin fingers and crimpers, belly flop on to that sloper walrus ledge to find yourself with one more block to get over before arriving at a fabulously comfortable belay complete with garden and at least one square foot of space to stand on, it's practically a bivvy ledge. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

8. 17 - Skirt right to skyline then trend left, take care to talk to your belayer as anchors are a direct rope fall/abseil above Pitch 8 anchors. By talking to your belayer you should be able to orient his voice to the line of fall as this slab can suck you in way left.

9. 16 - We did change out the Fixe hangers and leaver biners to Double rap ring Fixe hangers.

10. There is a possibility of adding a further pitch to this route to top out.

Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.

1. 30m (18) Phil Box (rope solo) At first pitch rap anchor of escension step right behind bushes and into a fist size crack. Up easily behind the spear lilly to be confronted with the first steep slab of the new route. Clip piton and traverse right along a good ledge to the weakness on right hand end of ledge. Directly up the weakness and onto low angle slab. Up slab to steep wall. Look for water runnels for protection up high. Follow these to corner and double bolt belay.

2. 35m (19) Phil Box, Brad Carmady, Josh Combes. From belay, traverse right for aprox. 3 metres and up obvious weakness. Step onto low angle slab and then step back left to directly over belay. Up Arete with poor gear to protect crux to gain a very good piece of protection. From here go directly up until one is in line with an obvious large ledge and spear lilly. Traverse about 6 metres right past the spear lilly to Fixe Ring Chain Belay on the wall at this ledge.

3. 30m (17) Brad Carmady Josh Combes, Phil Box. Traverse 4 metres right, then up and awkwardly step right onto slab. Up slab towards roof then traverse left under overlap to natural belay in obvious crack in right facing corner.

4. 40m (16) Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step up overlap then traverse left along spear lily ledge before heading up slabs left of large hanging block. Up wide layback then up to steep overlap before going slightly right on slabs to large spear lily ledge. Tree belay on right hand side. This could be a great bivy ledge if benightment a possibility.

5. 30m (16) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. Straight up from tree belay using the large crack formed by a tremendous gendarme. At top of gendarme trend right across steep slab (orange Alien size pro protects these moves) to corner and crack system. Trend back left on crack system, up behind spikey bush and into short chimney and on up the obvious crack system. Belay before obvious crack peters out.

6. 50m (16)Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step right and up through groove. Back left following line of weakness through slabs to under large blocks. Head straight up on stepped slabs to just under line of spear lillys. Either traverse left and up or straight through overhangs to poor spear lilly belay.

7. (3) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. 40 metres of spear lilly swimming to gain walk down ridge. Walk down to the right keeping the top of cliffline visible more or less. Encounter the obvious saddle and turn right to walk down obvious descent gully back to camp.