Vías en New South Wales and ACT pa entre 1998-00-00 y 2030-12-31

Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.

1. 22 40m (direct) - Up chimney following crack system past a bolt and piton. Trad belay.

   Alternate: 15 45m (off to the right) - Up chimney then cut to the right to a small ledge, then veer back left to the crack system passing a spearlilly along the way. trad belay.

2. 15 40m - Continue following crack system to double rap station.

3. 18 55m - Continue following crack system past more spear lillies and a small overlap that is easier than it looks. Belay off spear lillies and a small tree.

4. 16 55m - Continue following crack system through exposed section with good gear. Continue past more spear lillies.

5. 5 30m - Scramble through increasing vegetation to top.

Summary: Poor protection, average rock quality.

Location: Murwillumbah, Nobbys creek road, Second nob. Ask owners permission.

Route: Start to the right of the vertical section. Whack a sling around a protusion roughly 12m up (the crux). continue to first ledge. Then to the next ledge. Finish up to the old gnarly gum tree. Walk down the nob ( cant rap). 60m rope needed.

Second and Third pitch of the Art of Meditation

Memorial climb for my Mother, Robin Utopia. Flying with Angels. Fourth pitch of the art of meditation

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only anchors

Starting from platform to right of falls. From large flat edge, climb the arete using good crimps to an easy top out.

Traverse the length of the wall starting from platform to right of falls. Some fun moves with an early crux. Be careful not to fall near the end as the water gradually becomes more shallow.

First solid grey gully from end of beach. Start at the back of the gully on good rock. Bridge up gully then trend left on loose but easy rock at the top. ( I avoided the tempting arette due to poor rock) Belay & ab off tree.

Start 6m right of B.Y.S. Pull up left into the flake crack system. Follow it up then trend right to sub pinnacle. Avoiding loose rock ( pull down not out ) . Decent by sea saw abseil, or down climb Die For Gear.

15m on from B.Y.S Gully . Scramble up the corner then back and foot to the top. Finishes at top of Violet crumble. Down climb or ab.

The next 3 climbs are about 70m further on in " The Day Spa ". A compact black cliff with good natural features. Facial climbs the right leaning flake / crack system . Starting at the right end of a large boulder. Finishing in the corner of Massage.

Climb the good left leaning corner up the middle of the face. 6m left of Facial.

Start in the corner as Massage. Climb rightwards over the slab to a bulge with good undercling pockets. continue up and over to glory.

dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side...

small crack line on lower wall

Dangerous climb! Take care. Must wear a helmet for this climb! 6 rings, climb v corner, do not touch it or step on anything in corner it is all loose. sticking to the right wall for hand holds, left and right wall for feet. Belayer should keep clear, belay of first bolt of Guardins.

Dangerous climb! Take care. Must wear a helmet for this climb! 6 rings, climb v corner, do not touch it or step on anything in corner it is all loose. sticking to the right wall for hand holds, left and right wall for feet. Belayer should keep clear, belay of first bolt of Guardins.

Climb up on to block. 5 hangers stay to the left on arete . free my first bolted line.

Stay to the right of block. Same 5 hangers as Guardian climb face on right of hangers.

Stay to the right of block. Same 5 hangers as Guardian climb face on right of hangers.

Stick clip. First 3 rings shared with G U then 2 rings through Crux to shared anchors with G U, stay to the left side of arete

Stick clip. First 3 rings shared with G U then 2 rings through Crux to shared anchors with G U, stay to the left side of arete

Stick clip. First 3 rings shared with N a F then 2 rings through Crux to shared anchors with N a F,stay to the right side of arete.

Stick clip. First 3 rings shared with N a F then 2 rings through Crux to shared anchors with N a F,stay to the right side of arete.

stick clip. Starts easy then gets into some thin sharp, slightly tilted face climbing, 5 rings to double ring anchors

stick clip. Starts easy then gets into some thin sharp, slightly tilted face climbing, 5 rings to double ring anchors

First line bolted at Azgard. 9 hangers. Start under overhung wall. Power up into things sharp holds, left over roof onto slab finish.

First line bolted at Azgard. 9 hangers. Start under overhung wall. Power up into things sharp holds, left over roof onto slab finish.

3 hangers, shared anchors with M c.

3 hangers, shared anchors with S i.

3 hangers, shared anchors with S i.

5 rings and 1 fixed hanger. Climb up pockety left side of arete to shared anchors with F s.

5 rings and 1 fixed hanger. Climb up pockety left side of arete to shared anchors with F s.

5 u bolts, can clip fixed hanger of M e to finish. Climb face on right side of arete, then on to arete to finish at shared anchors with M e.

5 u bolts, can clip fixed hanger of M e to finish. Climb face on right side of arete, then on to arete to finish at shared anchors with M e.

Stick clip.4 u bolts, shared anchors with - L w L

Stick clip.4 u bolts, shared anchors with - L w L

Stick clip.4 u bolts, shared anchors with - L w L

Stick clip.4 u bolts, shared last u bolt, shared anchors with - B A

Stick clip.4 u bolts, shared last u bolt, shared anchors with - B A

Stick clip.4 u bolts, shared last u bolt, shared anchors with - B A

Stick clip.3 U bolts , shared anchors with next 2 climbs

Stick clip.3 U bolts , shared anchors with next 2 climbs

Stick clip.3 U bolts , shared anchors with next 2 climbs

Stick clip. 3 U bolts , shared anchors

Stick clip. 3 U bolts , shared anchors

Stick clip. 3 U bolts , shared anchors

Up the right corner, with fun bridging off a finger sized crack. Deadpoint the jug and top out toward the left.

Start: While facing 'Bunny Nuggets', turn around and walk into the gully to the left. The right most corner before the short slab.

Sit start at the base of obvious crack.

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain.

Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in.

2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top.

Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall

start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able.

start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able.

start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

On East face 5m R of CL. Up face. Abseil down to Start above water.

first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top.

2m R of P

2m R AS , up easy face corner

2m R of SE, up easy face

2m R of Ff

start under roof 2m R of 3e.

climb wall to the chimney.

start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start.

start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up.

The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle.

Sit start the left arête of the overhanging boulder. Left hand on corner of the arete and right in a pocket lower down, may need to squat if small. Burly moves for the grade through a series of pockets, crimps staying on the right face using the arête to the top of the boulder.

Very cool kinda dyno, kinda sideways deadpoint. Start on two rails facing outwards in the middle of the boulder. Find a key foot and swing out to the left and up to a pocket. I could catch this out stretch but any smaller wingspan may need to properly dyno. From the pocket climb to the top and top out the boulder.

Sit start may also be possible at a higher grade. Also may be possible statically.

Span start to jug on slabby feet, left rock is out. Ride it baby...

Sit start on the left of the face, on the crimpy bubbly ledge. Make your way to the right and top out

Sit start the obvious ledge. Bump the pocket to better hold. Once at the top, keep ignoring the ocean

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face.

Direct start to Happy Lama.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

The left side of the arete.

The right side of the arete.

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.