Vías en Central Coast

4 metres left of the iron spike, sit start near corner. Hands and feet must remain on top of roof, exiting right near the metal post.

2m right of iron bollard is a large 2 handed pocket. Start with straight arm hang from here, feet up above the natural brown line - on steep ground only. Then it's one contrived move to glory.

5m right of GS, past cave, up cracked juggy bit, traverse right to nose, keeping feet high, off slab.

Up over nose.

Dirty corner-crack 2m right of H.

Other crack 1m right of UTC.

Start as for 'Windward Passage', tending right along the black rock to top out directly above next crack.

5m left of sign post. Sit start with hands on nice big sloper. Straight up, taking care that little chicken heads don't break!

3m left of signpost, sit start to left of crack. Up onto slopers, left a metre then up.

Up thin crack 3m left of sign post.

Standing start at the lowest jugs and power your way up to the crimp (or all the way to the top)

Sit start at the base of the cave. Follow the left ledge, then drop down and around through the tunnel, finish at good jug at head height out right.

Start up the Inside Out ledge, but keep going all the way around the top side of the cave on the honeycomb rock and finish up B3.

Sit start at the base of the cave. Out along the lip using the fallen boulder for feet to get started. Keep going around the corner then up and over the blunt nose. The bouldering version of Ghetto Superstar.

Start on two scoops on left. Head right on ledge (DON’T USE THE VERY LOOSE FLAKE ABOVE LEDGE IT WILL BREAK OFF) through pockets and up.

Sit start at the foot ledge then head up and left a bit past the round pocket to OK topout

Start as for SIMP, but head straight up

Sit start matched on edge in back of cove. Head right on good holds to undercling, slap to arete and find the sneaky heel and toe hooks and head up.

The obvious line with the big reach up from the sloper and sidepull. Possibly reachy, definitely a bit unique.

In the small overhang in front of "Slab of the week" sit start in the hole matched in the seam, make a move to the lip and traverse right a few moves. Then head up and mantle out.

Start on scoopy undercling and mantle onto ledge then mantle again.

Shared start as GHD, move directly to the lip, gain the side pull with the right and go slightly left and up. Using two slopey crimpers. (Open Proj)

Sit start at arete left of SC. Up into alcove then exit left.

Onto Ground Flake just left of Alcove and straight up

Up slab a metre right of Descent, through bulge and kindest top out of the boulder

The middle of the north face of the boulder with a rail and ledge at half height

Starts in the hollow formed by a couple of boulders right of Easy Arete passing a pinch. Don’t stray into Descent

Low start on obvious jugs and straight up.

Start up Monorails, then traverse right for a few moves then up, Likely to see some Road Runner style footwork due to lack of feet!

Get established on the underclings then up past the mono and rails to the top

Sit start at left rising diagonal at left end of east face

The blunt arete down hill of easy arete. Start with right hand in 2 finger pocket and up to slippery top out

The south west arete right of STD

Start at sloping ironstone rail and right hand side pull, up to jugs then mantle

Start at obvious good crimp rail, straight up to a couple of crimps then tricky mantle on sloper.

Start on the low jug with a heel out left. Throw up to the slopey block and wrangle your way right around the blunt nose to some better holds then up.

Sit start on the good hold then straight up. Only feet on the ramp out left.

Stay very low heading around the arete. Not sure if this is bum dragging rubbish or not too bad?

The cluster of smaller free-standing boulders in front of ABNPOC. Sit start at the crack. Up then reach left to the arete and up.

Sit start with hands down on far left of good break, up on some good edges then undercling head right to join the top of neighbouring problem

Same sit start as BNPOC but head straight up. Video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cz0YRlaPpY4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Sit start matched on the lowest sloping feature. Quite hard to get started on with poor feet.

Climb the slopey arete up to gain the crimp on the centre of the face before throwing out to left arete, then up and over

Sit start matched on sidepull inside the cavelet. Back wall of cave is out for feet after start. Move up and out to slopey pockets and across to right arete using fun heel hooks. Using right arete and thin incut slot, move directly up to undercling pocket then top out.. super fun line

Start with left hand on arete and right hand down low on undercling edge. Move up to right hand sidepull pocket on the face and use good holds left in the break to gain the lip. Tricky mantle

Sit start with left hand out wide on pinch and right on thin undercling. Feet must be on the wall NOT on flat rock. Move up to right pinch then using the incut edges on lip to gain the flat lip. Traverse left on lip to the centre of the cave(crackline) then rock over mantle.

Sit start with left hand on jug and right on big sidepull, move out right to incut edge on lip, use left sidepull and bump up right through a couple holds on lip to gain the nose. Use the left and right sides of the buldge to push upto mantle. hard top out

Start on slopers on the lip above the right side of the cavelet. Trevers the lip using slopers and pinch to get into the start of simba moyo then finish as this problem. Floor of cave is out for feet. Probably goes around v7- v8

Stand start on 2 edges in the seem line. Move out left through the bowl into the flake and large left sidepull hueco. Then up through the jugs before big dyno move out left to good edge before the lip, then top out.

Start on the left slopey edge and side pull, big move upto good jugs then super hard top out on sloping lip

Start matched on thin edge, move up to slopey slot then out right to flat crimp then top out over slopey lip

Sit under left hand ironstone plug and pull on

Sit at right ironstone feature and pull on

Start low on vertical flutings

Sit at pocket on right, up and traverse left to arete to mantle. Good but undercut foot rail.

Sit under arete then up ironstone rib staying on steep side until the top of arete is reached

Sitstart.

Start sitting on jug rail and Traverse right with big move into half brain.

Low start matched on jug under boulder, up trending right through small eye and the larger eye above under the lip. Nice V4 when done as a stand start. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/

Cool semi-highball that starts low on the far right side of the bloc. Make your way straight up and slightly left using juggy ledges and then top out.

Shared start with Write to me and escape but move out right after the drop down move, topping out in the middle of the face.

Bring lots of pads to cover the death pit below the topout.

Mauricio Chino Stephen Rawls

Crag classic. Start far under cave on two jugs facing the direction of climbing. Fun short V4 when done as a sit start from below the arete. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/

Classic bouldering on slopers and edges, top outs are sandy pre prepare!!!

Start on pocket and sloper. Reachy with an awkward topout.

Start just under boulder on two jugs facing out. Topout sketchy - jump off instead.

From deep in the cave you can link up on horizontal roof climbing into "I'm into champagne"

Start matched on nice big undercling under the lip, then pop up to ledge. Traverse the lip out left staying low and then top out using huge victory jug.

Start as for "The Gingerbread Man" but pop out slighty right before making your way straight up through slopers (cool double bump sequence) and then topping out using huge scoop out the left. Vault the final scoop as you top out for some extra fun!

Sit Start all the way down on the right side arete and traverse left to join Staring At The Sea Direct.

Mauricio Chino

Sit start in the middle of the wall using a left hand side pull crimp and a right hand undercling. Hard first move to the sharp jug then move up left to top out.

Mauricio Chino

Use the glued-on cheats foothold to lunge up for the 1st clip, then head out a little left, and up. Rap off.

Same start as above, but move right onto arete (staying low), and then up, remaining on arete as much as possible. Rap off.

Up the little crack (2 x med cams), then up through the little cave to the lower offs.

Straight up and a little right, following the crack. Over the top and rap off.

Straight up the crack (2 x med cams) to lower offs

Up and left to the lower offs

Same start as above, but traverse (a bit of rope-drag) out right to the arete, and then up. Last move is a bit off-putting!. Rap off

Balancy start takes you up and out to the right. Move back left again over the block (weird move - right hand in a little pocket and left hand in a side pull while stepping over the block). Then up and right, onto the slab and up. Lower off.

Stay on arete as much as possible (you can also step out to the left if need be) until the face, then up. Lower off

Very balancy, a gift from Jace Piper

Left hand variant of slip and Sue, after clipping second bolt step left towards tree and hanging arete then up and back right to shared anchor. Slinging tree is possible

Start at low arete just right of leaning tree. Slab to single BB

Slightly undercut start at left end of honeycombed area to slab. DBB on block

Undercut scoop with long move to get onto slab. DBB shared with Sabbatical

Just left of corner at right end of undercut honeycomb. Shared anchors with SS

Short slightly overhanging crack to single u bolt lower off

Offwidth on L side of wall. U bolt at top.

Starts at l crack ( H and A) , trending diagonally right to first FH