Vías en Central Coast

Arete to the right of sagittarius, Sit start, make your way up via a few pockets and jug holds exit via scoop or arete. Dont Fall

A lowball traverse about 30m south of the 'The Aquarius'. Start on the right, feet low and hands on the solid middle ledge. A first move to a high jug followed by a traverse left sticking to hands on the ledge. Make the crux move across the first major break of the ledge, then up and over. Avoid all crumbly jugs/edges.

First boulder you get to when walking in. Pumpy V2. Start near the sign and traverse the edge to mantle near the arete.

Sit start.

Starts matched on the lowest flat edge with a bad right smear foot and heads straight up, using edges and underclings

Stand start on a right hand edge and left hand undercling around head height. Make a reachy move to some dimples with the right hand and make your way up on edges to top out.

Sit start on sloping rail and head out left to the sloping arete, head straight up to top out.

Avoid the crumbly crimpers

Avoid the crumbly crimpers

Sit start trending right through pocket

Sit start from the low horizontal sloper rail and work your way up using the arete, top out left.

Start left of the lip and traverse around to the middle to top out.

Closed

Sit start

Fun technical slab traverse. Sit start matched on jug on the corner and make your way around using large flake. Some tricky feet to gain the undercling and then two crimps before the final jug and top out. Top edge is out until you reach the last hold.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYhgKoJlvo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

This boulder has sadly been crushed by another boulder

Behind the huge block 30 metres further south. Start as low as you can span.

Start as for Low double pockets make large move up to crimp rail and topout

Sit-start using a low left hand on the arete and the low pocket on the brown stone. Head up using the crimps and the arete, then top out.

On the right side of The Hive bloc, sit start using the lowest holds. Go straight up. Anything to the left of the vertical iron band is out for hands.

Interesting Taipan-bridge start to gain break. Up onto slab which is continually engaging all the way to the clip+lower anchors.

Start as for YDBTR to break, then move R clipping a FH to big flake feature. Climb the slab above, always tending R past several UB's, finishing through bulge (sure, use the jugs on the right) to chain anchor.

Start at the single bolt belay on large ledge. Up with juggy flakes past FH's to sit-down rest. Traverse L on swirly stone before blasting up with authority. Traverse back R under rearing headwall. Mind blowing finale to uber finishing horn jug. Lower-off.

Deep reachy pockets to start, then desperate black slab. Finish with exciting haul past horizontal break to single monster u-bolt anchor half way up the cliff.

Start: Starts two metre left of 'Swampy Cow Corner' below black wall.

The left arete on the Sloper Central wall. The longest route on the crag. Easy for a while then punchy to small ledge. Jug out bulge and finish up final epic wall on unlikely holds to exciting finish onto ledge. Stay off until complete.

Stylish major right facing corner in middle of crag.

Start as for 'Swampy Cow Corner'. At 2nd bolt trend right onto orange wall. Weave up this trying to locate anything that might be actually usable amongst the sea of slopers. Finish at double rings under roof.

Sustained and independent line just to the the right of Sea of Slopes, with a punchy lip traversing start on pockets and a long sustained wall above. Don't cheat by finishing at Sea of Slopes anchors - the real finish is right and above the roof (hidden bolt) on the black slab.

As for PL to first big scoop on left wall. Hop in, dyno/reach break, monkey horizontally left and finish up crack in arete. Not yet equipped.

Right facing orange corner with capped roof. From ground, up easy angle slab passing one UB. Then stem up corner to clip+lower station under roof.

Come in from the right to start. Very easy climbing up juggy wall to a tricky sloper move just under the roof (well protected) to break. Avoid the roof on it's right using good slots. Up wall above to tree anchor (rope & mallion).

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Purty Lips'

A long atmospheric jug haul up a giant flake feature.

Start: Walk 100m right of Squeal Like a Pig past numerous walls and caves to find this route.

Start: 'Steep' cave climbing 3m right of 'Buck Yeager'. Impressive dyno half way up and desperate mantle to finish. Stay off until complete.

Only partially equipped (FH & UB). Note: need grinder (cutting disc), putty, green alien, then come in from the top to finish. Keep off.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Siesta'.

Climbs the best rock on the wall without too many weird mantle moves. Start as for Sea of Slopes to 3rd bolt. Traverse right to 'Siesta' - up this past several bolts to the 'ledge' where you can traverse left to the anchors above Sea of Slopes.

Traverse low rightwards, cross the scoop to finish as for "Dead or Alive"

Start: Sit start as for "Happy Pyramid"

Climb the weird arete to finish on the high edge

Start: Sit start on the low ledge left

Start: Sit start on small edges on the left hand cave wall.

Climb out to the jugs via the easiest method. Finish on the obvious deep break as for "Whats Golden" or you can traverse the break off to the right for a little extra

Start: Sit start in the little cave on the right hand wall.

Climb the right hand side of the cave tending right to the big hueco on the face. Use a low R/H side pull/ pinch thing, gain the big hueco then move up to finish matched on the ledge

Start: Sit start as for "we'll never make it out alive"

A hard undercling move gains the Hueco then straight up to finish matched on the ledge

Start: Sit start below the big hueco on the face on some underclings.

A variant of "Dead or Alive" that avoids using the big hueco and stays a little more left and climbs then faint rib. Take the low R/H side pull, cross left hand to the golden pinch then make a hard move with your right to gain a another match box looking pinch. Finish matched on the ledge. Classic Norwegian power!

Start: Sit start on the R/H cave wall as for "we'll never make it out alive"

Climb “Rigor Mortis” into “The Golden Pinch” .

Follow the low rail right, press up into the pockets in the little roof then gain the feature on the face. Move up to the break below the boulder on top by either a big move right or by using the thin little pinch out right. Tops out over the right side of the block. Super!

Start: Sit start "matched" farthest left hand end of the low rail.

Make a move up to the twin pockets then make a long move to the break. Finish as for deadbolt.

Start: Sit start on edges to the left of the small scoop

Gain the twin pockets but press right across the scoop and finish up the mantle "Hydraulic" Also the finish of "viking Invader"

Start: Sit start as for "flip the latch"

Make a move to the lip then a tricky mantle. Cute

Start: Start low from the obvious edge on the face.

Start: Sit start as for Yummy noodle. Then move right on underclings below the capped roof. Finish up 'Dead bolt direct' left of the block above.

As for Dead bolt but from the feature on the face move left to the bad slopers under the block (avoids the good break farther right). Top out around the left side of the block.

Start: Sit start "matched" on the farthest left hand end of the big low rail

Climb to the jug the break left and finish up "Happy Pyramid"

Start: Sit start on the left hand side of the cave as for "Whats Golden"

Start: Sit start as for 'dead bolt' and climb up into the pocket roof then move right across the buldge below the top ledge and into the next little cave to finish up hydraulic.

Start: Sit start as for 'Rigor mortis' on low underclings. Fire up right for the tufa feature, match it and finsih straight up to the ledge.

Climb the little prow to finish as "dead bolt" Avoid the twin pockets right or moving left low into the roof.

Start: Sit start below the little prow

Climb the rail right as for "Dead Bolt" but once you gain the pockets under the little roof traverse back left underclinging various little knobs, make a big move left to gain the perfect fat pinch then straight up to finish at the lip.

Start: Sit start "matched" at the farthest left hand end of the big low rail.

Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic

Climb the low rail out right but keep going, staying low under the little prow. Come up into the second scoop, press through and gain the lip on the R/H side. Mantle as for "Hydraulic"

Start: Sit start as for previous problems

Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'

Sit start as for happy pyramid then traverse right low to large span move, high jugs are out. finish as for golden pinch

Sit start as for happy pyramid, and traverse low right to large span move, not using any of the higher jugs in the cave. Then finish for dead and alive.

Sit start with left hand in the nice hueco and right hand on anything. Punch up with right hand to an edge then left hand to a good sloper, mantle and top out.

This boulder is located 5m past The Happy Pyramid.

Starting from the lowest jugs head straight up

Use the arete as a left hander and a hand jam on the right keeping mostly to the right of the arete

The layback/ offwidth on the boulder on the trackside to sprocket area, 4 m away from SAB

Problem on boulder opposite shake n bake flake.

Start as for Shake & Bake 'Flake' but head straight up and over.

On the left of the sprocket boulder. Sit start on the left of the obvious flake, traverse right to gain the prow and top out on the rigth side.

Sit Start on the good low edge about 2m right of shake and bake

'Flake'. Climb straight up through the scoopy section to the right hand hole on top. Top out

Sit start about 1.5m rigth of 'Holey Moley' (below the bubbley rock) on some good low side pull/underclings. climb up and left to top out to the rigth of Holey moley

Standing start in the middle of heavilly pocketed wall. Climb directly up through the sockets.

Climb the right hand arete from the low sit start to a big move at the top.

Around the corner from Mr Spacley is an obvoius slopy lip above a vertical break. Undercling the break to gain the lip and mantle.

Sit start on the right hand side of the prow on the obvious jug. Slap up the slopey features to top out.